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Any tips for replacing the heater hose quick disconnect?

Discussion in 'Engine & Performance' started by geocrasher, Apr 13, 2021.

  1. geocrasher

    geocrasher Full Access Member

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    I found a leak on my TBI 350 that's in my 88 Suburban. It's the quick disconnect next to the distributor:

    [​IMG]

    Apparently these are prone to breaking off upon removal, which looks like a pain to fix! Any suggestions for replacing this? Should I replace it with the same part? I'm going to replace heater hoses and radiator hoses at the same time, and so if there's an upgrade to be had, I'm all for it. For example, can it just be replaced with plain heater hose? Or must it be hard line due to its close quarters with the exhaust manifold?

    Also is it worth hitting the manifold and fitting with some PB blaster or liquid wrench beforehand?

    Thanks for any help!
     
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  2. Rusty Nail

    Rusty Nail Victim of Culture

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    Remove / delete that fitting and install a hose nipple. Same thread as your garden hose. Delete fitting, install hose on nipple with ring gear clamp.
    The end.
     
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  3. geocrasher

    geocrasher Full Access Member

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    Thank you, that's what I was looking to know. My understanding is that it's 1/2" NPT threads and just a standard hose nipple will work with the same size heater hose as the rest of the truck?

    You can tell I'm new at this aspect of working on my truck. And I'm a serious over-thinker.

    Thanks a lot for the help.
     
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  4. eskimomann209

    eskimomann209 Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    Yeah I believe it is 1/2 NPT. Not the garden hose thread.
    That ones a little different.
    But they even make 1/2NPT and the barbed other end 5/8 or 3/4. Whatever that hose is. I cannae remember.
    But a strait up pipe works too.
     
  5. Octane

    Octane Full Access Member

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    I did this to my chevy s10.Fitting changed to hook up that 5/8 hose I believe was the size hose anyway.It was a standard size auto hose nipple and thread.Factory fitting was a known problem leaker and with 250k on my truck I changed mine anyway.
     
  6. geocrasher

    geocrasher Full Access Member

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    Thanks! I did just check and it's definitely 5/8" hose. So, 1/2" NPT to 5/8" hose, easy peasy. Now to just the old one off without breaking it. Got some liquid wrench and am going to start spraying it every few hours with that.
     
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  7. Octane

    Octane Full Access Member

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    I have good experience with PB Blaster.
     
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  8. geocrasher

    geocrasher Full Access Member

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    Perhaps I should have got that instead. By the time I saw your comment, my daughter who's out doing shopping had already left the store. Hopefully the Liquid Wrench does the job so I don't have to break out the "cut the stupid thing out" tools.
     
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  9. Octane

    Octane Full Access Member

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    It'll probably come out okay with a little finesse!
     
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  10. geocrasher

    geocrasher Full Access Member

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    That would be nice :D
     
  11. Octane

    Octane Full Access Member

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    Keep us posted!
     
  12. BillK

    BillK Junior Member

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    I replaced the one in my 99 with the factory part. The new ones are a different material. A lot of times it is just the o-ring leaking and you dont have to replace the whole fitting. They do tend to break and can be a pain to get the remains out of the aluminum intake. I have had to cut them into pieces :( Don't waste your money on the extractor bit they sell in the parts stores.
     
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  13. Raider L

    Raider L Full Access Member

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    @geocrasher,
    And get you a deep socket to put on that nut part. Are you going to cut the hose off before you try and remove the fitting. Don't try and wrench the thing, you will break it off. Get a big deep socket and a breaker bar to loosen it up at first.
     
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  14. geocrasher

    geocrasher Full Access Member

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    @Raider L it's interesting you brought that up. I am having one heck of a time getting that part off. I was going to cut the hose off but I can't really get anything in there to cut it off. A 4.5" angle grinder is too big, and I don't have a sawzall or I'd definitely use it. I am thinking I need to pick up a sawzall next time I'm in town. I do have a 27mm (1 1/16") socket, not deep, but plenty deep to get on that. I DID manage to get it to move just a little with a wrench but it wouldn't move further.

    It's an excuse to buy more tools, so that's a plus, I guess. I was really hoping that all the liquid wrench I've doused that thing in would've done its job by now :p

    I also did some more research and found that if replacing it with a fitting that doesn't have a built in restriction, it can blow out the heater core! So, I have a socket that fits perfect in the 5/8" heater hose so I'll stuff that in there to provide the needed restriction. The last thing I need is to be doing a heater core right now.

    I also found that there's a tool for removing the broken piece:
    https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-.../lisle-heater-hose-coupler-remover/222528_0_0

    Here's the thread that has the information referenced:
    https://www.gmt400.com/threads/heat...-fitting-and-hose-clamp-swap-fix.23434/page-4
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2021
  15. geocrasher

    geocrasher Full Access Member

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    One hour later: VICTORY!

    I bummed around my shop looking for a way to make this happen without further delay. The answer: Vice grips and a hacksaw blade became a human powered sawzall! I got the hose off, and then the fitting came right out. But, this is not a quick disconnect fitting :disgust: but it a half inch NPT to... something. And it's got a bit of a restriction in it. This thing fits stock, has a bracket that attaches to the valve cover even. The PO did say this was a Goodwrench engine, I suppose that makes a difference? Not entirely sure. Could it be that this is a custom made hose? Pictures:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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