Any good hacks/upgrades you've come up with for our trucks

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Dougnsalem

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84-96 Jeep XJ shaft. Make sure to doublecheck the ends to see that one’s splined with a smooth kind of keyway to guide it, and the other’s got a D-shaped end. It’ll work on all kinds of 79-96 GM cars and trucks. I think it depends on 97 and pretty sure they won’t on 98 trucks.
That's awesome! You know, I never even gave it a thought in the past- are all of the steering box input shafts on those year trucks the same? (1/2, 3/4, 1, C, K.....). Thanks for the info!
 

Frankenchevy

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...Converting to rear disk brakes is another good mod. You can use Cadillac Eldorado calipers if you want to retain your park brake but I don't remember which year works. The rear shackle flip is another one I like, easy way to gain 4 inches of lift without using lift blocks, and much cheaper than lift springs.

78 caddy eldorado's do for sure. that's what i have on mine.
 

Honky Kong jr

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I have V10 calipers on the back of mine. :bleh:
 

Frankenchevy

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I have V10 calipers on the back of mine. :bleh:
yeah but...now my calipers won't look out of place when i install my diamond in the back, sunroof top, gangster white walls or my tv antenna.

i didn't want to be drivin' around looking like some jive turkey
 

hatzie

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I like the engine bay start ability. Just like a transit coach. My diesel would be a bit more involved. LOL I may do it with a key switch.

Heat is what blows out fuses. Soldering the ring terminals onto a fuse will change it's current handling ability.
The blowout characteristics of Fuses and Fusible links are quite different so it's not easy to handicap the correct fuse for the application. Soldering ring terminals to the fusible links doesn't appreciably degrade them either.

If you want to use a fuse... Why not replace the J-stud block with a couple of 8mm stud mount MIDI Fuse holders? You can get MIDI fuses from 30A-200A and you can tell at a glance whether they are blown or not.
The holders and fuses are inexpensive and don't require modification of the fuse elements.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach



I modified the starter and power feeds more than a little bit.
Parallel Wired Diesel Batteries
Positive lugs...
  • The 4AWG battery to battery positive cable runs along the top of the radiator in the stock location terminated to both side terminals as stock.
  • The Positive lugs on both batteries use longer bolts and spacer slugs to handle two connections. Stock setup only uses two connections to the RH battery and the crossover cable connection only on the LH battery.
  • The RH Battery has a short 4AWG positive cable to reach the remote solenoid BAT terminal. Stock would run all the way to the starter BAT stud.
  • The LH Battery has a Short 8AWG positive cable to reach the fusible link stud strip #1 Stud. Stock would only have the crossover cable.
Ground Lugs... Stock runs to the Alternator on the RH side and I've forgotten where on the LH side.
  • The 4AWG ground cables run directly to the frame on the LH & RH sides.
  • 4AWG cables run from both rails to the block at the motor mounts. I originally used heavy braided straps but they corroded faster than I cared for.
  • Braided straps run from both frame rails to the cab, bed, inner-fenders, and rad support. My vain attempt to cut down on galvanic corrosion between body panels.


The starter has a remote solenoid and no wires down the bellhousing at all.
  • The Purple Crank wire runs in the wire tray over the doghouse then down the AC box with the AC blower relay wiring, along the blower power wire, and then along the RH inner fender to the remote starter solenoid. I made a new 14AWG Purple wire to reach from the Packard 56 Firewall passthrough to the solenoid ring terminal and covered it with expanding sleeve.
  • The fat 4AWG starter power wire runs from the remote solenoid to the oil pan rail then to the BAT terminal on the starter. This wire only has power when the remote solenoid next to the RH battery is energized.
  • The starter mounted solenoid gets power from the BAT terminal through a 6" Purple wire from the 3/8" BAT terminal to the #8 crank wire terminal so the starter will crank as soon as the fat 4AWG cable is energized.

Typically there are three or four fusible links. Two at the starter and one or two on the J-stud.
To avoid the wires down the RH side of the bellhousing in that tube next to the starter and make changing the links easier.
I made up four fusible links with ring terminals on both ends. Three on a four position stud isolator strip mounted on the inner fender next to the LH battery and one on the J-Stud.


At the 4 #10 stud distribution block;
  • The Cab power 12AWG feed is on Stud #4 with a BLACK 16AWG Fusible Link to Stud #1.
  • The Headlamps 12AWG feed and 12AWG alternator Sense are on Stud #3 with a GRAY 14AWG Fusible Link to Stud #1.
  • The Larger J-Stud 8AWG feed is on Stud #2 with a ORANGE 10AWG Fusible Link to #1.
  • The 8AWG second LH battery positive connection runs to stud #1.

At the J-Studs on the firewall;
  • The 8AWG CS130D alternator BAT wire runs right to the larger J-Stud along the RH valve cover inboard edge. No fusible link here.
  • Glow Plug relay 8AWG Glow Plug power direct to the larger J-Stud as well. Every glow plug has its' own fusible link as stock for 1985 & later systems.
  • The 10AWG AC Blower relay feed wire is attached to the smaller J-Stud and it's protected by a GRAY 14AWG fusible link wire between the Large and Small J-Studs.
The distribution block I bought from WiringProducts...
You must be registered for see images attach

It looks like GM might've done it that way... If they put a 6.5L AMG Diesel in a 1976 K20 LOL
No I don't have pictures. No I'm not taking any in the back of my dark barn in the dead of winter at -20°F.
 
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Dougnsalem

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I like the engine bay start ability. Just like a transit coach. My diesel would be a bit more involved. LOL

Heat is what blows out fuses. Soldering the ring terminals onto a fuse will change it's current handling ability.
The blowout characteristics of Fuses and Fusible links are quite different so it's not easy to handicap the correct fuse for the application. Soldering ring terminals to the fusible links doesn't appreciably degrade them either.

If you want to use a fuse... Why not replace the J-stud block with a couple of 8mm stud mount MIDI Fuse holders? You can get MIDI fuses from 30A-200A and you can tell at a glance whether they are blown or not.
The holders and fuses are inexpensive and don't require modification of the fuse elements.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach



I modified the starter and power feeds more than a little bit.
Parallel Wired Diesel Batteries
Positive lugs...
  • The 4AWG battery to battery positive cable runs along the top of the radiator in the stock location terminated to both side terminals as stock.
  • The Positive lugs on both batteries use longer bolts and spacer slugs to handle two connections. Stock setup only uses two connections to the RH battery and the crossover cable connection only on the LH battery.
  • The RH Battery has a short 4AWG positive cable to reach the remote solenoid BAT terminal. Stock would run all the way to the starter BAT stud.
  • The LH Battery has a Short 8AWG positive cable to reach the fusible link stud strip #1 Stud. Stock would only have the crossover cable.
Ground Lugs... Stock runs to the Alternator on the RH side and I've forgotten where on the LH side.
  • The 4AWG ground cables run directly to the frame on the LH & RH sides.
  • 4AWG cables run from both rails to the block at the motor mounts. I originally used heavy braided straps but they corroded faster than I cared for.
  • Braided straps run from both frame rails to the cab, bed, inner-fenders, and rad support. My vain attempt to cut down on galvanic corrosion between body panels.


The starter has a remote solenoid and no wires down the bellhousing at all.
  • The Purple Crank wire runs in the wire tray over the doghouse then down the AC box with the AC blower relay wiring, along the blower power wire, and then along the RH inner fender to the remote starter solenoid. I made a new 14AWG Purple wire to reach from the Packard 56 Firewall passthrough to the solenoid ring terminal and covered it with expanding sleeve.
  • The fat 4AWG starter power wire runs from the remote solenoid to the oil pan rail then to the BAT terminal on the starter. This wire only has power when the remote solenoid next to the RH battery is energized.
  • The starter mounted solenoid gets power from the BAT terminal through a 6" Purple wire from the 3/8" BAT terminal to the #8 crank wire terminal so the starter will crank as soon as the fat 4AWG cable is energized.

Typically there are three or four fusible links. Two at the starter and one or two on the J-stud.
To avoid the wires down the RH side of the bellhousing in that tube next to the starter and make changing the links easier.
I made up four fusible links with ring terminals on both ends. Three on a four position stud isolator strip mounted on the inner fender next to the LH battery and one on the J-Stud.


At the 4 #10 stud distribution block;
  • The Cab power 12AWG feed is on Stud #4 with a BLACK 16AWG Fusible Link to Stud #1.
  • The Headlamps 12AWG feed and 12AWG alternator Sense are on Stud #3 with a GRAY 14AWG Fusible Link to Stud #1.
  • The Larger J-Stud 8AWG feed is on Stud #2 with a ORANGE 10AWG Fusible Link to #1.
  • The 8AWG second LH battery positive connection runs to stud #1.

At the J-Studs on the firewall;
  • The 8AWG CS130D alternator BAT wire runs right to the larger J-Stud along the RH valve cover inboard edge. No fusible link here.
  • Glow Plug relay 8AWG Glow Plug power direct to the larger J-Stud as well. Every glow plug has its' own fusible link as stock for 1985 & later systems.
  • The 10AWG AC Blower relay feed wire is attached to the smaller J-Stud and it's protected by a GRAY 14AWG fusible link wire between the Large and Small J-Studs.
The distribution block I bought from WiringProducts...
You must be registered for see images attach

It looks like GM might've done it that way... If they put a 6.5L AMG Diesel in a 1976 K20 LOL
No I don't have pictures. No I'm not taking any in the back of my dark barn in the dead of winter at -20°F.

LMAO! Yeah, that last paragraph was right on the money. I can read through it a couple times, and get a pretty good idea of what you've got going on. And speaking of ideas- I am TOTALLY open for any thoughts on how it could be done better. Seriously! After 4WDKC mentioned the power distribution box- that sounded like a good idea to put in. I need to run my alternator power to the J Block (if its used I guess) instead of the battery. Other stuff too. I pretty much tossed the things in (it really looks like crap), to see how I liked everything and to make sure it would all work. I figured I was safe with the two 10 gauge wires going to the J block, by checking the wire specs. The fuse? Total guess. I should have taken a total max current measure first. I will when I figure out the final plan, and get the rest of my power consumption items put in. (Stereo...) I've got a crap load of interior wiring that's a priority. (OP hack job....). I'll be yanking the engine harness out when I paint the compartment, so that's when I'll fix it. I'm gonna do some checking on some of the things you brought up. Probably gonna have some questions for you too, if that's cool. Lots. Lol. I appreciate your time spent here, for sure! Even though its installed hokey, it sure has been handy. I just need to figure a cleaner/better way to do it. Well, that switch by the alternator needs to go too. Maybe a pushbutton?
Anyways, thanks again for the input!
 

74propu

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Honky Kong jr

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RetroC10Sport

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Whenever you get time. No rush. Thanks much!



Yeah, that looks cool. I found the updated thread that @RetroC10Sport made on the years, and install info.. All of the image links are broken though. Still shouldn't be that hard to put in.

http://www.gmsquarebody.com/threads...s-temp-mirror-in-your-truck.9216/#post-212702



*** BTW-While looking up these things, I have been seeing a bunch of threads about this stuff in the past. I guess my search skills just plain suck. Lol. Sorry to start another thread, if its already been gone over a bunch..... ***

Thanks for letting me know, I'll update it when I can.
 

Dougnsalem

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Going to put this on my 86 https://www.ebay.com/itm/200AMP-HIGH-AMP-ALTERNATOR-Fits-BUICK-CHEVY-GMC-OLDSMOBILE-PONTIAC-DELCO-12SI/251170986477?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 . After adding 2 electric fans 2 air compressors head light relays and electric fuel pumps I ran out of power. Scotty I need more power man lol
Wow, that's a great price for what it is. The '79 454 one (10si) comes in chrome for the same deal. Another item for the list.... Lol
 

hatzie

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The 12SI is older tech and pretty much maxes out the capabilities of the V-Belt accessory drives at right around 100Amps. Even with two V-Belts on the alternator you can run into trouble driving a really high amp SI series alternator. The cooling fan isn't on par with the newer CS and AD designs. New SI series are guaranteed to be Chinese counterfeits. The 12Si was used for a fairly short time span between the 10SI and the CS series.

If you can find and install the Serpentine belt setup that GM used on the T400 chassis you can use the really hot 1999-2005 AD230/AD244 they used on the early T800 chassis trucks instead of the CS130/CS144series alternators. OTOH the CS 130D is a pretty decent unit for a 105Amp alternator.

My 6.5L came out of a 1998 with a CS130D and Sanden AC compressor and the 1997 up high volume water pump and, of course, serpentine belts. I didn't change any of it. If the CS130D gives up the ghost I'm probably going to be updating to an AD244 but the 105A CS130D is working out just fine right now.

Regulator differences between the 2005 and earlier and the 2006 & later units.
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How to tell the difference between the CS130D & AD series.
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