Age old question on Age old power windows motors

[echo7bravo]

I know I have got to sound like the broken record...beating dead horse....getting bloody hands...blah, blah, blah. However, I work nights in a local jail and do nothing but read threads in the forum in between subjects coming in to visit.

I have read several posts regarding installing relays on the power window motors. chengny seems to be one of the brightest light bulbs I have ran across this year (yes, I know all 21 days of it). And he has done some spectacular tests and write ups.

http://www.gmsquarebody.com/threads/power-window-separated-relay.12883/#post-270894

My question to Jerry and any and all that can chime in with opinions, thoughts or just plain outright knowledge.... WHAT WILL FIX MY SLOOOOOOOW WINDOW MOTORS?

Not to poke at Jerry, but what condition were the power window regulators in during the test? Could the speeds achieved be the fastest those particular regulators were going to move?

I haven't clocked my windows yet. They are so slow I may have to wait on day break to use the sun for a clock. But, I am willing to bet they take 10+ seconds to roll all the way down.

Should I throw a multi meter on the leads and check the power at the motor? If the voltage is well below 12v with engine running....Should I connect leads directly to a vehicle battery? What speeds are folks achieving on their window opening and closing?

[Last note] I have already lubed the window tracks and checked glass for binding and alignment.

 

[chengny]

Maybe consider doing the test I did (but with your windows still in the doors and the regulators driving the lifting gear). If you notice a remarkable speed increase...it's an electrical issue. But if, on the other hand, providing the motors with an external power source - from say a fully charged battery or a old-fashioned battery charger - has no effect on the rate at which the windows raise/lower...it would be safe to assume that it is a mechanical issue.

MAKE SURE YOUR ROLLERS ARE NOT GETTING COCKED. I think the two that ride in the sash are designed to have some wobble, but the one that rides in the stationary regulator rail is supposed to run true.

And remember, the entire circuit (for both sides and both directions) is grounded through the drivers side master switch. So be sure that there exists a real clean/tight path from it to the bus block. Far more problems with low voltage equipment are due to insufficient grounding rather than low voltage supply.

Do the motors still run wicked slow even if the regulator is uncoupled from the linkage?

 

[echo7bravo]

Do the motors still run wicked slow even if the regulator is uncoupled from the linkage?

I will report back to you. I'm just speaking in theory at the moment. I haven't done anything short of lubricating the track so far. Have only had the truck for two weeks. We have been having brutal weather lately and suppose to rain on my first off day....so I have been tinkering more with the little things like interior lighting and cigarette lighter and such.

I was looking for a "what to expect" kind of thing prior to digging into it. Curious as to what folks think proper raising and lowering speeds should be as well.

 

[echo7bravo]

I poked around a little yesterday afternoon after my MAN-time. That's Mandatory Afternoon Nap for you under 40. My diver side window will lower and raise in about 8 seconds in each direction. The passenger side....well it is FUBAR. It takes about 15 seconds to get to to half way position when it stops traveling. I am thinking there is some misalignment in there. I am pulling my seat, carpet and door panels to do some interior work over the next two days since I am off. I will run some checks and tests and see if I can't figure out what is going on. This poor truck was neglected for far too long.