Aftermarket A/C?

[Edelbrock]

I see people installing complete A/C kits on non A/C rigs.
I see people installing aftermarket kits that add a new ducting system and vents below the dash.
I have seen people with hitch mounted cargo racks on the back of rig holding a generator and a window A/C system ducted into the cab.

What about adding an electric RV AC system to the top of a K5 hard top?


This seems like the easiest and most straight forward way to do it. Drill a hole in the fiberglass for the airflow. Drill a couple mounting bolt holes. Run a couple power wires. Might need a power inverter, but thats simple enough.

Thoughts?

 

[Zelph]

No.

 

[Grit dog]

Might need a power inverter?
No, that’s a must. Unless you were going for the hitch carrier mounted generator, super hillbilly version Blazer.
Or a massive battery bank. (Either massive size and weight or massive budget if going Li batteries)
And a top of the line alternator upgrade and may as well throw a big shore power maintainer in the truck so it’s easy to recharge at night.

Conceptually it’s pretty straightforward and simple though and it would work fine with either the hitch mount genny or a huge electrical system. Both of which make the idea practically impractical.

 

[edgephoto]

They make 12 volt roof mounted unit. They sell them for use on heavy equipment. I would bet you need a pretty stout alternator to run it.

 

[TotalyHucked]

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Broken85]

Please don’t do this, just roll the windows down and call it a day. I don’t know if the internet is ready for it…….

 

[Grit dog]

They make 12 volt roof mounted unit. They sell them for use on heavy equipment. I would bet you need a pretty stout alternator to run it.

Good point. They make 12V units for RVs too. Same but with a built in inverter I believe. Might be cheaper option. $1000 ish for a 10kbtu unit. Still need a bank of batteries behind it and a really good alternator if going to run it for any length of time between shore power charging the batteries. Think of it as powering a competition stereo at full volume for however long.
But the more you think about it, even setting it up properly and new everything, it’s comparable or less $ than a vintage air system.
Only more cumbersome due to battery storage requirements.

 

[82sbshortbed]

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[Grit dog]

But in reality, even though it would work great, no one will likely want that if you’re building a clean rig (restoring).
On the flips side if you get a free-ish RV AC unit (even if it fails it’s easy to swap with another of the 1000s of old used rv air conditioners) and can scavenge most of the rest of the parts for cheap, a guy could potentially poor boy together a working AC for under $1000.

 

[Edelbrock]

Good ideas people - I will check around and try to find a 12V for free or cheap. I think 12V is the way to go. Replacing the alternator would be easy enough, or possibly even add a second dedicated alternator. I have plenty of good heavy duty deep cycle 1000 CCA batteries laying around.

 

[Edelbrock]

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Your suggestions led me here:

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RV Air Conditioner, 12V 10000 BTU Top Mounted Heating and Cooling Parking Air Conditioner Set for RVs, Trucks, Vans, Campers​

Regular price $895

From what I read, this unit is very small and compact, and even has a remote control, so you could change temp or tun on/off while driving.

Check out the size, only 6" tall.

And according to the manufacturer, it can be used while driving, and it is designed to run off of your vehicle battery without any electrical system modifications.

This would mount pretty easily to a K5 hard top.

Check out the pics: