AC redo after sitting disconnected for a long time

[plugugly]

the 87 6.2 we bought has not had the AC working since long before we bought it I believe. Is there a simpletons version of troubleshooting the AC and where to check, verify etc anywhere on here? Like AC 101 for *********? I dont know squat about AC's but would like to try and get this thing going. At some point, will drop an LQ4 in this thing, and I know I would need a new compressor, but hopefully the rest will be reusable

 

[fast 99]

For simple and cheap get a drier, add oil as required along with dye, suck it down see if it maintains vacuum. If it does charge it. Chances of that working aren't good, but you never know. Compressor seals will be dry along with every other seal or hose needing replacement. If dye is added at least, you'll know what leaks.

 

[75gmck25]

Are all the hoses still connected? Any idea why it quite working? Do you know what refrigerant and oil was used the last time it was working?

Most folks convert to R134a and PAG oil, since it’s what all stores carry. However, R12 (Freon) and mineral oil are still available. I have used a vacuum pump and gauges from Harbor Freight and they seem to work fine. However, you can always pay an A/C shop to pull vacuum and add refrigerant once you have checked everything else.

Moisture, dirt and leaks are usually the biggest problems, even if the compressor still works. Hoses are probably older non-barrier hoses, but should work to get by for a while.

- If it’s still sealed you can pull vacuum and get all the moisture out. Then refill with proper oil and refrigerant. Use all new O-rings for hoses and fittings (a full package is cheap).

- To get dirt out you would unscrew all the connections, spray in A/C flush, and dry out with compressed air.

- The orifice is a very cheap part, but may be plugged if there is any debris or dirt. Always replace it. GM white orifice was probably stock, but many use the Ford Blue orifice if it’s been converted to R134a.

- very easy to flush the condenser and the evaporator - similar to cleaning out a radiator. You can drain the old oil from the compressor, but I would not try to flush.

 

[plugugly]

thank you. Figure I need to see if the clutch even works, check all wiring, etc.

Is there any indication if the system has pressure other than releasing thru a shraeder valve?

There is no belt around pump, dont know why. Dont know if PO changed anything on the refrigerant side. I know nothing about it really. Thats why I need a ground up start for dummies. Its easy enuf to swap parts, just down want to throw good money after bad. I assume the compressor would be the only real change if swapping to an LS in a year or two?