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[Jrgunn5150]

I've had far worse luck with POR15 and the like than I have with normal paint.

 

[yevgenievich]

I've had far worse luck with POR15 and the like than I have with normal paint.

Did not see it as that well either. But ok results. Rust has to be killed using their converter first, just like when using normal paint

 

[4WDKC]

wow guys I missed 3 replys to this, sorry about that.


Anyway splans have changed a lil.

I AM changing at least the full pass. side floor, rear underseat pan, front pan, I'm eye balls deep in it now. I may change the other pan between the driver's front and rear seats. If not then I'll be using the mat and por15 but I'll see how well this other pan change goes.

I've got the front and rear pans on the pass. side almost completely fit, and need to trim them along the tunnel, screwed down for now etc. I'm waiting for some weld thru primer, some chassis saver, and a punch/flange tool to come in.

My plan is unlike others, I plan to leave a 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch overlap whatever the flange dictates, and then punch holes to plug weld, seam seal over the joints top and bottom and not butt weld. I'm not sure I could butt weld th ewhole thing I'm afraid I'd just waste time, wire and mes it up.

Once I get this done I'm moving on to the trunk drop offs only because I removed one. Then I can focus on getting it back down on the ground and rolling.





question for all of you reading, should I strip everything and coat with por15, chassis saver etc. or just strip and epoxy prime then some paint later? Inside and ou ton the floors?


Some spots have rust, most is new metal.

POR 15 is designed to go on rust not bare metal and is probably why so many people have bad exp. with it flaking.. etching primer, so it bonds to the metal very well, I have a friend that says not to use epoxy because primer sealer will do the same thing, then paint. I was taught to use epoxy but, he has been painting cars for 20 yrs so what do I know.

 

[Jrgunn5150]

POR 15 is designed to go on rust not bare metal and is probably why so many people have bad exp. with it flaking.. etching primer, so it bonds to the metal very well, I have a friend that says not to use epoxy because primer sealer will do the same thing, then paint. I was taught to use epoxy but, he has been painting cars for 20 yrs so what do I know.

I've used it on rust... I've used it on bare metal etched with their stuff, I've used it every way people say to use it after the last way I used it crackles and peels.

I just use paint now, seems to work fine.

 

[Swims350]

I used por15 on the vette floors over some older paint and rust, and my subframe nothing more then a good wire brushing and wiped clean, no tusing their other stuff. Not sure how well that may hold up then.

I've heard guys say it's fine over clean steel just rough it with like 80 grit, I've never done it.

I always see guys say to use epoxy, I have but not over rust just old paint and bare steel.


BUT good point you brought up, I have almost an entire gallon of black sealer. I wonder how that would work over bare steel, rust, and old paint and then I'm sure I'd need a topcoat within the window of flash time of the sealer?

I have been honestly thinking just use some rustoleum or something on the floors. Like the oild based stuff or tractor supply paint.

again not sure how those will do long term over some rust or bare steel etc.

it'd save me alot of time not stripping them new pans to bare steel or the rest of the underside and inside, but I want it to last. I know the cheap coating on repo panels is crap at best lol. Well most, I know some claim to have a true edp coating and not just a crap black wipe off with a quick rag coat.


I figured I'd ask now because I've got to order something regardless maybe in a few weeks, be it epoxy primer gallon or self etch or por15/chassis saver etc.


I hear alot about guys going back and forth on self etch vs epoxy it's almost like guys going back and forth over their fav sports team. they both seem equal and both sides have pros and cons.



@bucket compressor is doing fine, I rigged up a box fan for the time being to blow air across the cooling fins on top with the plastic covers removed until I can track down the right fan for it online, which I haven't even looked yet.

 

[4WDKC]

When in doubt use both - etching,epoxy,sealer, paint. It was applied on my vette over clean metal and is flaking off, same result on my friends Malibu we did. I was told to add hardener to it when spraying on so it acts like paint but havent tried it.

 

[Jrgunn5150]

Yeah, there's some brand loyalty, there's also that alot of things get restored then sit in garages so it seems to hold up fine, and there's probably some people unwilling to admit they paid alot for something and it failed.

I've personally gone to Rustoleum Heavy Rust primer, I let it dry a week or so, then top coat it with whatever I want. It's actually what repalced the chassis saver on my C10.

 

[Swims350]

I've used the rusto rusty metal primer and oil based gloss black, and used the black alot, but I never kept anything I used it on long enough to see how well or how long it stayed.

That could be a possibility on using some self etch then epoxy and or sealer. I like the epoxy and its a DTM primer, just unsure on how it'd do over some surface rust. I always heard to use self etch to help as on the TA hood I got. It was surface rusted and pitted everywhere, I used some stripping discs removed everything I could, treated with some reformer stuff from summit, then used self etch primer over it. I haven't really checked it but it's been in the garage on the shelf for like a year or more now.

@4WDKC So what you are saying flaked off was the por15 on the vette?

 

[4WDKC]

@4WDKC So what you are saying flaked off was the por15 on the vette?

Correct, I wasnt there when it was applied to see it go on clean bare metal but it is flaking off just like it is on my friends malibu that we we stripped to bare metal with a wire wheel. It should have had plenty to bite into and it still peeled. We used this on a 4.5" grinder.

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[Jrgunn5150]

I wire brushed, degreased with Acetone, and painted it on the inside of my cab on my C10 and it flaked off sitting in storage lol.

 

[Swims350]

I used a cupped style like that on my big 8 inch sander/polisher to do my frame, looks like it might flake off sometime soon then lol. I used grease and wax remover from the local body shop supply.

 

[Swims350]

was going good until I broke my last 1/8 bit. I gotta go pick some up tomorrow. I know they are self tapping metal screws, but they take forever trying to drill the thicker gauge frame rails.

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[Swims350]

lil more, got everything fit and screwed in place. Now I took it all back off, going to do the final trim on the pans, flange, holes for spot welds, weld thru primer, smooth edges, and chassis saver inside the frame rails and crossmembers. Then reinstall and weld, I hope. LOL

The seam between the front pan and rearmost has to be butt welded so hope I can manage, I also have to do some fab work on the frame in back. You can see it doesn't meet the torque box, it actually lays overtop of the box and was rotted, so I need to buy thicker gauge steel and fab some pieces to weld on the frame and spot weld on the box.

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[Swims350]

not really much of an update but damn near time to burn em in.

the weather got bad and cold here for a bit, then everyone got sick, mostly my kids, finally getting better weather again.

I hope to burn em in asap hopefully within a week or so.

 

[Swims350]

just an update I scrapped this POS.