700R4 TV cable - weird adjuster?

[brooksman9]

No problem. Hope I was able to help.

 

[MikeB]

Better to have it too tight and shift late than too loose and risk excessive clutch slippage. But with no auto adjuster getting it too tight means that there is no ratchet to prevent the cable from reaching end of travel and technically becoming an end stop before WOT, so I advise caution.

Absolutely! Also, make sure to do the adjustment with the choke closed, so "fast idle" is not engaged. And for an Edelbrock carb, you will need a "geometry correction" bracket made by Sonnax. Here's the part and an explanation of why you need it.

Carburetor TV Linkage Corrector Kit - AS5-05K

Ensures proper transmission pressure and shift timing. Precisely sets distance of OE TV cable travel. Fits 4L60, Edlebrock®-style linkage. Part No. AS5-05K

www.sonnax.com

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[gsuburban]

Should I just get a new TV cable adjuster?

I would take it to a good transmission rebuild shop. They usually have decent resources for older parts and usually have LKQ OEM parts in stock. Or, they can adjust it for you the way it should be with no slack in it. My local transmission shop did this for me at it took them 3 minutes to get the right tension on the cable for proper shifts.

 

[gsuburban]

I have a 700 R4 and what appears to be an unconventional screw type adjustment for the TV cable. I read the instructions that are linked through summit racing‘s website here, but can’t figure out what the best way to adjust my TV cable would be. I have 4.10 gears turned by a 350 through the 700r4 + NP208. Using a GPS speedometer, it seems to shift into 2nd around 11-13mph. I can’t hear much over 45mph, but sounds like high rpms. I don’t have a tachometer yet and really haven’t driven the truck much since buying it. Maybe 100 miles total over the course of a year, all of it at 50mph or lower.
Any thoughts?
Pics:

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That is for sure adjustable. Looks like a new throttle cable is due...that is dangerous. TV must be adjusted just right or shifts will not be correct. Use a trans shop, usually the independent shops are best vs. AAMCO etc.

 

[midnightblue]

Another sure fire way to make sure the cable's geometry and adjustment is correct is to drop the transmission pan. Look at the plunger and the lever that pushed the plunger. At idle the lever that engages the plunger should be touching the plunger but not engaging it or have any space between the lever and plunger. Then have a buddy push the accelerator pedal to the floor to make sure the plunger is fully engaged. I ended up purchasing a total adjustable stainless cable from Summit (summit brand) and a few different brackets to get mine correct. Its a royal pain in the you know what to get it perfect, however it saves the transmission. my 2 cents.

 

[caincrx]

That TV cable is adjustable. It works the sane as the OEM ones buy the push button is on the bottom instead of top and mine isn't spring loaded. It's just a cheaper made fully adjustable cable. A OEM cable will be much better and probably last longer without any issues. But so far it's worked fine for me. And the geometry is so very important because of the amount of pressure sent to the clutch packs at the right throttle % is very important because not enough will let it slip just a bit, not enough you will notice at all if your pretty close to right but any bit of slip is bad. With a edelbrock carb it should lok like the pic

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