700r4 Conversion & SM465 build

[88burbbie]

So I've decided I'm going to do a build thread on this since I've needed help and wasn't sure of a few things and there is alot of things I discovered and did not know I will keep this as up to date as possible .. first off if you are looking for a 465 to swap in behind a small block pay the extra money for one with a bell housing they are not easy to find and a remanufactured on is 150-300$ for the hydro clutch ,there are two types of 4wd 465s one is pre 82 which has a short 10 spline output the other is a 32spline 18 inch output this was changed for durability as the 10 spline requires an adapter shaft and a spacer to put it in with a non native transfer case there is no aftermarket support for the clutch/brake pedal assembly getting a used one online is 200+$ you can choose to find one at a scrap yard but good luck the years that are directly bolt in are 75-88 but hydro was only from 85-87 you you have to put a pin in the pedal for the rod from 75-84, you can use an aftermarket clutch pedal from wilwood for 148$ after shipping, don't let some old timer transmission shop tell you something doesn't exist because they only know some things , if you have 4wd and are using a 208c they came in 27 spline inputs you need to swap this with a 32 tooth if using the long shaft or find a 208f which came behind all th400 military vehicles in the 80s they had 32 spline inputs and will bolt up to the tail house with no issues. Total build cost should be around 600-700$ to get an extremely reliable 4speed in replace of that shotty 700r4.thats all I got for now I will put up pictures and post more the further i get

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[HotRodPC]

@HotRodPC wanna move this little guy to the appropriate area please sir.

Will do, gonna be a great thread here. Thanks @88burbbie. We'll get it in the right category so it's found.

I thought tech was the appropriate area I apologize

Ain't no thang. Nothing we can't fix with a couple clicks, and I'll clean up the thread to keep the off-topic posts limited.

 

[HotRodPC]

So it appears you're learning along the way. All you're saying about the 32 spline vs 10 spline etc is all correct. As well as the bellhousing and the hydro pedals. You can of course also use the Z bar linkage clutch pedals too. Just have to source all the parts to match whatever method you're using. But as you found out, for a 700r4 conversion and to use an NP208, Yes, you want to find a 32 splined output shaft unit. And then all your driveshafts will work without modifications.

So have you got your clutch and brake pedals swapped in yet?

 

[88burbbie]

So it appears you're learning along the way. All you're saying about the 32 spline vs 10 spline etc is all correct. As well as the bellhousing and the hydro pedals. You can of course also use the Z bar linkage clutch pedals too. Just have to source all the parts to match whatever method you're using. But as you found out, for a 700r4 conversion and to use an NP208, Yes, you want to find a 32 splined output shaft unit. And then all your driveshafts will work without modifications.

So have you got your clutch and brake pedals swapped in yet?

i have them found because im trying to keep this as cheap as possible as of current im sourcing my pedals from an 84 c 60 at the junkyard they still work but is the ball and rod z bar but im going to convert it over to hydro its still a squarebody so the pedals will fit but it was a hard to find part theres only one manual truck from the square body era out of 4 junkyards ive visited i should have them picked up friday or saturday and the best way to work is from the bottom up on this kind of project ive learned from the past with swapping an 89 cherokee from a ba10-5 to an ax15

 

[HotRodPC]

This dude is smoking crack. It says make offer, I'd offer $200. All he can do is say NO and counter offer. Personally, I think he's smokin' a pole. I see many people asking ridiculous prices for these, but I don't see any selling either. Value of anything is only what someone is willing to pay and it doesn't really matter what the appraiser says.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/73-87-C10-...122445?hash=item340949abcd:g:N30AAOSwS4ZcwZR8

 

[88burbbie]

This is the current state I got my bell housing (it's just sitting there I got to replace the fork ball) as you see it's the z rod which will be changed over to hydro once I get the slave in to fab the bracket which will bolt to the front of the bell due to it being a push slave (it's a factory slave from 85-87

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[88burbbie]

This dude is smoking crack. It says make offer, I'd offer $200. All he can do is say NO and counter offer. Personally, I think he's smokin' a pole. I see many people asking ridiculous prices for these, but I don't see any selling either. Value of anything is only what someone is willing to pay and it doesn't really matter what the appraiser says.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/73-87-C10-...122445?hash=item340949abcd:g:N30AAOSwS4ZcwZR8

that is by far the most expensive set ive seen granted you get the slave and master but whos to say they dont need rebuilt or are total junk anyhow

 

[88burbbie]

all most all the parts are in to get this underway unfortunately im being told that the firewall mount reservoir for the clutch doesnt exist so im trying to locate one in a junkyard because autoparts stores are morons

 

[88burbbie]

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if you use a factory slave and make a bracket for it you will need to make a longer rod as the standard one is too short unless you make a few angles to move the slave back on the bell housing

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32 tooth input shaft

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you have two bolts longer then the rest on the outside of the t case they go on the outer left and right edges of the t case

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sungear....don't do what I did you will be in needle bearing hell now what you should do is keep the main shaft together tank up on it while yanking up on the output gear after removing the c clips it will come out solid

 

[88burbbie]

admin please delete this post im going to redo this with an official post
thank you