BTW Pops, if you would, whatever you decided to do here, Take some pics of what you have now, and do us a write up if you would. I'll be in the same boat soon. When I get that 14b FF 4.10 axle in the K10 frame, I have a feeling I'll have better luck finding a 3/4 ton D44 with 4.10's already set up and likley to be a 76 or earlier truck that had a NP203 will full timers on it and it'll need converted too. Or, I guess I could have as much of a chance to find a 10bolt from a 3/4 ton with 4.10's too. Being I need to convert to 8 lug, and 4.10's I think it'll be easier to find a 3/4 ton front axle.
Sorry Hotrod I didnt take any pictures of the swap, Honestly its pretty straight forward. Hardest thing about it is removing and reinstalling 16 wheel studs.
It's external because they are the '73-'77 K20 hubs. The spindle nut conversion only applies if you are replacing the factory automatic locking hubs (like with the 208/241).
I have the stainless MM hubs on my K30 and they are great. They work nicer than the Warns, IMHO.
As for swapping the hubs, it shouldn't be much trouble. You just need the 8-lug stuff from a later 10 bolt, the hubs, bearings, and the spindles. Your stock knuckles can remain, as well as the caliper brackets, calipers, and I think the rotors too.
As luck would have it the Mile Marker Hubs are what was in the 85 parts truck so thats what I have now the stainless ones, They are trully simple operation.
Just so we can all be 100% clear on what all needs to be changed to convert from the fulltime set up to Part time for any future inquiries.
1/2 ton FULLTIME already have internal drive blocks that lock the hub to the axle shaft, to convert them its as simple as removing the drive blocks and installing the Lockout hubs.
3/4 ton FULLTIME have an EXTERNAL Drive Flanges, to change this to a Part time setup, you will need a set of hubs and bearings from a gm 10 bolt. The axle shafts, Spindles, Knuckles, Caliper bracket, Calipers, and Rotors will ALL interchange.
1. Remove the Axle cover, Use a hammer and cold chisel to seperate it from
the Drive Flange.
2. Remove the snap ring from the stub axle shaft.
3. Remove the 6 Bolts holding the Drive flange to the hub (5/8" Socket)
4. Remove the Drive flange, A hammer and cold chisel may be needed to
seperate the two.
5. Remove the Jam nut from the spindle, 4x4 wheel bearing socket is needed.
6. Remove the Internal nut lock plate, a small hooked pick works great.
7. Remove the Inner wheel bearing nut from the spindle.
8. Remove the Hub and rotor assembly. TIP if you want to remove the internal
Wheel bearing to inspect, repack, or replace it. reinstall the hub assembly
with out the OUTER wheel bearing, then start the wheel bearing nut back
on to the spindle, then pull out and down on the hub assembly with FORCE
after a few tries the hub assembly will slide off leaving the inner bearing and
grease seal on the spindle, remove the nut and the bearing and seal can be
removed from the spindle.
To install:
1. install new Bearings and seals in the Hubs. Slide the hub over the spindle,
2. Install the Outer Bearing, then install the INNER wheel bearing NUT with the
*** facing OUT.
3. Preload the bearings, then install the nut locking plate.
4. Install the Jam nut TIGHT.
5. Install the Lock out assembly, and sping if using WARN hubs.
6. Install the outer snapring to hold the lock out inside the hub.
7. Install the inner snapring over the axle shaft to hold the axle in the lock out.
8. Install the last part of the lock outs and secure them with the 6 allen head
cap screws, careful not to cross thread them.
i did have to swap the rotors ONLY because the rotors that were already on the hubs I was installing where shot, nothing like having to pull 16 new lug studs into the hub and rotors.
More than just the rotor I do beleive.
