2wd SM465 Speedo Gear Problems

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Powerhouse Ranch

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Yay! Yet another speedo thread! now i checked around the forum already but none quite touched what i wanted. I also briefly touched on this in my "350 TBI Not Running Right" but decided that this s**t-show deserves it's own thread. I NEED AN ANSWER!

Way back when my speedo/odo stopped working. Alright, did a quick diagnosis: cable still plugged in both ends, put a drill on the tranny side, speedo bounced. Okay, good. So the next answer is to pull the tail housing of the SM465 and see what the deal was. Well, i didn't necessarily want to, so i didn't. Fast forward a year and a half later, i have the rear pinion seal out and the tranny output shaft seal out. Figure i should probably do this while the driveshaft is out. Alright. . .

So i pull the tailhousing. Speedo gear isn't damaged and it spins freely (should it?) the "drive gear" on the output shaft, pulled right off (should it?) Should something have been holding that tight against the tranny? Was i missing clips? Did it wear loose? It isn't damaged in any way. . . THE POINT IS is that it worked! And then all the sudden it didn't, and never has since, not a wink! No remains or chunks of possible clips when i drained the housing.

WHAT THE HELL HAPPENED? What am i missing? Pictured below is the gear that slides right off and that makes contact with the other speedo gear. Pictured IS NOT the SM465 or mine for that matter, just a google one i grabbed real quick, just to show the gear.

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Turbo4whl

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I NEED AN ANSWER...
The answer is no, it should not spin on the shaft. Automatics have a clip to hold the gear. I forget about the SM465. I think it is supposed to be a slight press fit. That keeps it from spinning.
So i pull the tailhousing. Speedo gear isn't damaged and it spins freely (should it?) the "drive gear" on the output shaft, pulled right off (should it?) Should something have been holding that tight against the tranny? Was i missing clips? Did it wear loose? It isn't damaged in any way. . . THE POINT IS is that it worked! And then all the sudden it didn't, and never has since, not a wink! No remains or chunks of possible clips when i drained the housing.
The gear is metal, right? Use a cylindrical bonding Loctite. (Red stuff) I'll find the product number if you can't find it. Clean the oil, glue the gear on.
 

Turbo4whl

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Not Red, green or yellow. Different strengths and clearances. If you use the high strength, not listed as service removable, but you can heat it to get it apart later. The high heat stuff is good for loose exhaust valve seats. Use Loctite 641 or 638. More info:

Loctite
 

Powerhouse Ranch

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Not Red, green or yellow. Different strengths and clearances. If you use the high strength, not listed as service removable, but you can heat it to get it apart later. The high heat stuff is good for loose exhaust valve seats. Use Loctite 641 or 638. More info:

Loctite

So here's what i'm getting:

In my SM564, NO the gear on the output shaft should NOT move, should be slightly press fitted. So since mine is loose, it isn't reading and it needs to be loctited back on using either 641 or 638. That is up against the outer bearing on the output shaft. Correct?
 

Turbo4whl

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The location of the gear on the shaft needs to line up with the driven gear of the cable adaptor. If that location you stated is inline with the driven gear, yes.
 

Powerhouse Ranch

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The location of the gear on the shaft needs to line up with the driven gear of the cable adaptor. If that location you stated is inline with the driven gear, yes.

yeah, makes sense. my dad is also suggesting washers, so when i put the tail housing on too, it'll press against it and secure it more that way
 

Turbo4whl

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So it has literally been years since I was in the machine shop building manual transmissions. So a quick Youtube search on assembly/ disassembly shows the speedo gear is a slip fit. When you remove the 8 bolts that hold the rear cover that holds the the shaft bearings in tight, behind the speedo gear is a spring tange washer that is supposed to hold the gear from spinning around the shaft.

Obviously this doesn't work well for a long period of time. But watching this video reminded me of even an older trick. We took a center punch and dinged the shaft where the gear rides.(before all the fancy Loctite's)

Put the worn spring washer back in first, for spacing after you clean the oil off the gear and shaft. Use the Loctite.

Might as well replace the output yoke seal while you have the cover off.
 

AuroraGirl

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So it has literally been years since I was in the machine shop building manual transmissions. So a quick Youtube search on assembly/ disassembly shows the speedo gear is a slip fit. When you remove the 8 bolts that hold the rear cover that holds the the shaft bearings in tight, behind the speedo gear is a spring tange washer that is supposed to hold the gear from spinning around the shaft.

Obviously this doesn't work well for a long period of time. But watching this video reminded me of even an older trick. We took a center punch and dinged the shaft where the gear rides.(before all the fancy Loctite's)

Put the worn spring washer back in first, for spacing after you clean the oil off the gear and shaft. Use the Loctite.

Might as well replace the output yoke seal while you have the cover off.
Do you mean a loctite of special use for machined fit, I think I seen one like that before, or literally just threadlocker kinda loctite.

I picked up some low strength/small fgastener thread locker. I have a few things I notice on like my car and truck that tightening them makes them good for a while but they will back out ever so slowly and often its not even critical, but i think this clearance allows the threads to just rust if it is anything steel to steel. the locker will hopefully help but not end up like my wiper arm splines on the F150... pro tip... use a low strength for that..
 

Turbo4whl

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Do you mean a loctite of special use for machined fit, I think I seen one like that before, or literally just threadlocker kinda loctite.

I picked up some low strength/small fgastener thread locker. I have a few things I notice on like my car and truck that tightening them makes them good for a while but they will back out ever so slowly and often its not even critical, but i think this clearance allows the threads to just rust if it is anything steel to steel. the locker will hopefully help but not end up like my wiper arm splines on the F150... pro tip... use a low strength for that..
No, not Loctite thread lock. Cylindrical bonding Loctite.

See the Loctite link in post #5
 

AuroraGirl

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ahah I thought you were just comedically referring to ask loctite about it not a hyperlink. the color looked like normal text haha
 

Turbo4whl

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ahah I thought you were just comedically referring to ask loctite about it not a hyperlink. the color looked like normal text haha
Yes, change with the new forum software.

The hyperlink icon brings up a box for the link, and another box to label the link. No color change. Maybe it would be better if I posted the link in the title box too.
 

AuroraGirl

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Yes, change with the new forum software.

The hyperlink icon brings up a box for the link, and another box to label the link. No color change. Maybe it would be better if I posted the link in the title box too.
oh its okay, its just so different because most forums pronounce hyperlinks usually with underlines, color, bold ,some combo, ive seen font change too. So you know it was a reference so you dont have LOCTITE PREMIUM US ORDEER TODAY GIVE US THE MONEY SLEEVE LOCK OR SHE GETS IT (LLC) for the title that would be the "default " in some places where you just have a link inserted but not on text
 

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