1980 GMC Sierra 1500 with tilt wheel. Ignition switch that's been Jerry rigged. I'm not sure where to start.

[Calisco]

So I just had the family truck, a 1980 GMC Sierra 1500, shipped out to SC from Oregon. My grandfather on my dad's side bought it new and over the course of my dad owning it, he has had a gear head buddy fix certain things on the cheap. For better or worse. The keyed ignition does nothing. You start the truck by pulling this small rod that goes from just above the steering column through the firewall towards you. To shut it off, you push it back away from you. I'm guessing that this is some remaining part of the original ignition system and not some random rod his friend fashioned up. I'm at work atm but if this is something that requires photos for people to figure out, I can take some.

My question is where do I even begin to get this back to factory working order? I've tried looking at parts lists, browsing threads, and looking through a few YouTube videos but I figured it would be better to consult with people who may know how the truck has been possibly rigged up to start to guide me with what all I need. And if budgeting for this is even worth it if I plan on fixing the trucks other quirks.

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

This is the video I was using as a reference.

The easiest project is going to be upgrading the old halogen headlights to some H4 LEDs
but even with that I wonder if the voltage issues with an older truck might cause flickering. The windshield wipers will randomly come on once about every twenty minutes and the blower for the heat seems to never truly be off and is still slightly audible. The left hand saddle tank is also unusable due to some fuel pickup issue and this is something else my dad may has had the same buddy work around. But that's another thread.

 

[legopnuematic]

The rack is likely broken in the column, not uncommon at all, especially on the tilt columns.

You must be registered for see images attach

The blower running all the time is factory, part of the constant air circulation “system”

 

[Calisco]

The rack is likely broken in the column, not uncommon at all, especially on the tilt columns.

You must be registered for see images attach

The blower running all the time is factory, part of the constant air circulation “system”

What's a good source of this kit? Is it all I would need?!

 

[Craig Nedrow]

Go to YouTube, look up Viking mechanic best column video out there. Without going into details the last two months I’ve been into my steering column six times. I’m pretty good at it now there’s really only one hard part and that guy in the YouTube video shows you that and shows you how to do it and I’ve done it and it works. You either have to buy or make a tool that’s used to push down so you can remove a C clip on the upper end of the column here’s a picture of the one I made cheap easy and fast. You will take out those three bolts underneath that is a ring that use for your horn button anyway look at the video. It’s excellent.

 

[NLD79K10]

The easiest project is going to be upgrading the old halogen headlights to some H4 LEDs
but even with that I wonder if the voltage issues with an older truck might cause flickering.

Voltage issues shouldn't be much of an issue, but you can get a relatively cheap H4 harness with direct feed from the battery off Amazon if you're worried. I would slightly modify it to replace the single fuse in the power feed to individual in-line fuses for each headlight so a short in one of the headlights doesn't leave you in the dark completely, but that is just me.

 

[75gmck25]

The GM steering wheel rack is available from any decent parts store, and usually costs about $12-15. However, replacing the rack requires a fair amount of column disassembly. You need to look for a good article online that shows the disassembly and reassembly process.

Make sure you disconnect the battery first. You will need to buy or make the tool used to depress the lock plate under the steering wheel (I made mine) and you might need a steering wheel puller (I was able to just yank mine off ). Under the steering wheel on my truck there was an alignment mark on the shaft, so it was easy to make sure I got the wheel mounted back in the same place.

 

[Grit dog]

All good advice so far.
The rod you speak of connects to the rack and when you turn the key timber it does what you’re doing manually.
Headlights? Ya may flicker unless you install a relay.
I’d suggest looking up the “Toyota” headlights thread on here. It’s a nigh quality headlight and relay system for Land Cruisers but work great on these trucks. The whole kit costs about as much as a decent relay kit alone and you can put whatever bulbs you want in the headlights.
Tank(s). Assuming both have been in place forever. I’d drop both tanks. Clean, replace if necessary, new senders and fuel hoses.
Congrats on getting the truck out there! She’s a beauty!!