16 gallons tank to 20 gallons swap

[roadwolf]

When i bought my v10, i came back home with the right side tank in the bed removed by the P/O because of leaks.

i ordered 2 new thanks (+ strap) from rockauto, but i was thinking i had 20 gallons tanks so i took these ones, in fact it was 16 gals on the pick up.

Now i have to install the 20 gals in place of the 16 gals, does somebody already have done this ?

I miss the rear bracket on the removed tank, but i don't know if they are the same between the to size ?

my goal is to put the new 20 gallons on the right side try if my engine stop to stall when i am under 1/4 full in the tank when releasing throttle and then swap the left 16 gals tank by a new 20 gals tank i already have.

do you know where to get a rear tank bracket ?

 

[bucket]

From what I've found, all the parts are basically the same and you can mix/match parts to get what you want. I believe the 20 gallon goes right in place of the 16 gallon, as long as it's a long bed. I know you can swap sides on everything too. I took everything from the driver's side of my '84 and used it on the passenger side. The sending unit's outlets point the wrong way, but it's nothing some longer rubber hose can't fix.

 

[foamypirate]

Yep, you can re-use existing brackets, there are already holes in the frame for the 20-gal position (on long beds only, of course). You will need the 20-gallon filler hose or modify the 16-gallon filler hose to fit, but that's it. I did the swap on my 84'.

 

[roadwolf]

for the sending unit, i think a 180 ° degree turn, fix the problem as the tank are the same for both side, as i take the sending unit from my odl tank i just have to put it the same way it was.

lookin at ebay i founf there are 2 different rear brackets :

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gas-fuel-ta...152&pid=100033&prg=1124&rk=1&sd=111055516885&

and the long one

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gas-fuel-ta...152&pid=100033&prg=1124&rk=2&sd=111055516885&

the platic splach shield is also too short for the 20 gal tank, i'il have to lenghen it.

in fact my only trouble, is that i don't have the rear bracket for the right tank to proceed the install.

 

[bucket]

Ditch the plastic shield, it does nothing but trap dirt and moisture, then give you some nice little rust holes in the tank.

 

[bucket]

The longer one is only needed if you retain the full length plastic shield. I highly recommend not using the shield.

 

[roadwolf]

if it takes 25 years to rust and leak, i think i'll try to put the spalsh shield as i go with brand new tanks but if it's to hard to modify i won't waste time on it.

 

[1987chevybad]

if it takes 25 years to rust and leak, i think i'll try to put the spalsh shield as i go with brand new tanks but if it's to hard to modify i won't waste time on it.

Don't They tanks rotted out twice already with the plastic shields on my 87 (its on it's 3rd set).

My 1977 K30 trucks are all rotted out but the tanks are still good... No sheilds and OEM tanks

 

[smurph20]

I found that my front tank bracets were side specific because the bolt pattern is different.

 

[bucket]

I found that my front tank bracets were side specific because the bolt pattern is different.

That's true, but the holes are still there just without the welded nuts. You can weld nuts in place, but I just used regular nuts and bolts.

 

[Driver4r]

Ditch the plastic shield, it does nothing but trap dirt and moisture, then give you some nice little rust holes in the tank.

Listen to bucket, ive seen it to many times also.

 

[roadwolf]

well, i'll see how does it look without, anyway if want to put back the shield, i'll have to re-work on it because it is the small 16 gal shield, perhaps i m thinking of a perforated sheet metal/aluminium.