If it has tires on it you might see the steering box/frame flex while someone rocks the steering wheel..
Regardless, as others have said, make the reenforcement to the frame now if you plan on running bigger tires.
The Dashes Direct urethane was fine for my old truck, it fit, wasn’t expensive, and Jeggs had it.
It's definitely not the quality of the vinyl but neither is my truck...
“Fusible Link” it’s a section of the factory wiring that is designed to do exactly what it did…
Possibly the starter/solenoid has some type of problem causing a high current draw.
The “Fusible Link” should be replaced when the problem is corrected.
I’m a small guy but with new seat foam the factory wheel with 3-4” of dish was way too close.
This is a Grant 1916, it’s 13” and basically flat.
I’m still looking locally for a tilt wheel.
I had intended to have those pieces powder coated black when I had my wing windows all disassembled. But time constraints got in the way and I sprayed them with Rustoleum black… we’ll see how well it holds up.
I learned about Penetrol from a childhood friends father who refinished antique wooden furniture. He could lay down a slick hand painted coat of paint and there wouldn’t be a single brush stroke.
I used it in the frame paint on my truck.
Do you have a local spring/suspension shop?
Drag those beat up springs down there and have them work or replace them as needed.
Get those right before addressing shocks…
I buy and sell very occasionally on FB MP and always check the profile as much as possible.
Just sold a beautiful Martin guitar on MP last week, it went super easy.