Chuck’s engine build thread!

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82SquareBurb

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It was then that I realized that I bought 3/8 base threads instead of 7/16.

Gosh, I didn't even know they made studs with 3/8" below the hex. Thought they were all 7/16" - Shows you what I know! lol

Heli coils are the best option for munged threads, if all else fails you could convert to an electric fuel pump and just run a block off plate.
 

ChuckN

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Gosh, I didn't even know they made studs with 3/8" below the hex. Thought they were all 7/16" - Shows you what I know! lol

Heli coils are the best option for munged threads, if all else fails you could convert to an electric fuel pump and just run a block off plate.
Yeah, apparently I accidentally ordered studs for a big block- I guess they use 3/8 base threads.

An electric fuel pump is on the list for later- I hope to convert to a Sniper 2 next winter.
 

ChuckN

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Went out to the garage and measured the lift at the lip of the lifter at 10 after TDC for intake, and 10 before for exhaust.

Multiplied x 1.5 for the rocker arm, that means .171 lift intake and .140 exhaust.

Then I put the digital micrometer on then intake and exhaust valves and measured the same relative points for the valve to touch the pistons. I have .345 intake clearance and .337 exhaust clearance (those numbers include.040 added in for head gasket thickness).

The math for intake at 10 after comes out to .174 intake clearance and 10 before is .197 exhaust clearance so it would seem on paper that there’s plenty there.
 
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ChuckN

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Did the putty squash test and it came out differently but still within safe limits at about .135 on intake and almost.200 on exhaust.

Then I got the helicoils on the fuel pump done.
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ChuckN

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ARP oil pump stud and oil pump installed. Canton reinforced timing cover on, and cam button end play done (that was a tricky one). Harmonic balancer on, and Summit timing pointer set to TDC via piston stop method. Awaiting delivery of the Cometic head gaskets.

I hope to have the oil pump pickup depth determined and the pan on in the coming days. That, and the fuel pump and pushrod done.

After that, when the heads are on, the only thing left to do will be the flexplate, pushrod length, and port matching the heads to the intake.
 

ChuckN

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Taught myself a trick when I was working on the cam end play.

Even though the Canton cover is rated for a cam button and is advertised as strong enough, it still will flex a little when I had the micrometer in the lifter valley through to the inside of the upper sprocket and was hard to tell between when the plate would start flexing and the cam touched it, especially with the amount of force you can put on it when prying forward on the side of the cam lobe.

I thought, well use your ears instead or your eyes, Chad. I got my dead blow hammer and just “tunked “ on the cover. When moving the cam forward, I listened to the tone change. “Pung Pung peng peng ping ping ping!” Then I measured from when the tone “just started “ to change to the end of the rearward play. Then I ended up with about three thousandths. If it’s a little tight I’m not too worried about it, the fancy timing set has a Torrington bearing on the thrust face anyway.

I recently read a thread on an older forum and a guy posited that the cam movement issue is a fallacy since the oil pump drag is constantly pulling backward on the cam anyway. Still, I’m not ballsy enough to go without one but I think he might have been onto something. Food for thought anyway.
 

82SquareBurb

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Always good to try and keep things consistent as for cam walk. I know some water pumps have a bolt/stud that can be set up against the cover to help lesson the flex. The pump on my Nova has the adjustable stud since I use a flex prone milodon cover on that setup. Good to check these little details!
 

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