VGG 1776 Clear vs Poppy’s Glossed Out Clear

First wash it with bon ami,ajax,similiar abrasive tub and sink cleaner. You'd be amazed what an ajax bath with a sponge and water will do.

Burkee1483 said:

I’ve also been looking at the VGG wipe on clear/ non matte.

I would buff and polish my truck due to it being horribly oxidized. I’m afraid thou to lose the hand painted letter down the bed sides and on the doors.

I would also appreciate some insight lol

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I tried the VGG wipe on clear semi-gloss, it was a GD nightmare. In all the videos, it wipes on smooth, but even with cleaning liberally with wax and grease remover, it still streaked like crazy and looked like a$$. I ended up sanding it lightly then buffing in stages with different products just to get it back to looking not-terrible. Now it’s ok. I just don’t think it played well with my paint for whatever reason. Others seem to have reasonable results with it.

So here’s the thing. Since I polished and buffed out the truck I was very happy with the results. But overtime the clear fades back out and has oxidation spots. After I buffed and polished it I followed it up with a ceramic coat. Maybe a good coat of wax would seal it better than ceramic? Or maybe I need to use a better quality ceramic? Not sure.

HUFFINCOSMOLINE said:

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Sure is a good looking truck that’s for sure!

I had a VW from the 90s that did just that. I’d buff it, and it would look good for a short amount of time. Nothing I tried would keep the shine. Eventually I just ended up getting it painted- this was back when you could get a pretty good paint job for $2500.

I did have good luck with VGG Shine Juice- you could try that because it does have a little more staying power, and it’s easily removed with wax and grease remover. It does ok as long as it’s not out in the rain consistently and you follow the instructions.

ChuckN said:

Sure is a good looking truck that’s for sure!

I had a VW from the 90s that did just that. I’d buff it, and it would look good for a short amount of time. Nothing I tried would keep the shine. Eventually I just ended up getting it painted- this was back when you could get a pretty good paint job for $2500.

I did have good luck with VGG Shine Juice- you could try that because it does have a little more staying power, and it’s easily removed with wax and grease remover. It does ok as long as it’s not out in the rain consistently and you follow the instructions.

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Thanks I appreciate it. Yea I’m in the same boat as your old ride. She could use a fresh paint job, but finding the time to do it, just not practical at the moment.

Man, that's a good looking truck! I def would hate to hear you had a bad experience with clear.

That's definitely single stage if it buffs out that nice. If she's an outdoor dog, there's only so much you can do though.

I'm not sure how well ceramic holds up on single stage, but my daily '05 Z71 is a single stage and it's an outdoor dog. I buffed it out really good and I just make sure I wax it twice a year. Usually, I'll notice the roof is getting a bit pink first and I know it's time. I'll do a super quicky buff on the roof and the tops of the doors/top of the body line (literally about 10 min, super quick pass just to get it back red) and then re-wax. Not super labor intensive if you keep up with it.

It was hard to pick up with the camera, but the truck was starting to turn chalky/pink when I bought it

TotalyHucked said:

Man, that's a good looking truck! I def would hate to hear you had a bad experience with clear.

That's definitely single stage if it buffs out that nice. If she's an outdoor dog, there's only so much you can do though.

I'm not sure how well ceramic holds up on single stage, but my daily '05 Z71 is a single stage and it's an outdoor dog. I buffed it out really good and I just make sure I wax it twice a year. Usually, I'll notice the roof is getting a bit pink first and I know it's time. I'll do a super quicky buff on the roof and the tops of the doors/top of the body line (literally about 10 min, super quick pass just to get it back red) and then re-wax. Not super labor intensive if you keep up with it.

It was hard to pick up with the camera, but the truck was starting to turn chalky/pink when I bought it

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Appreciate it. That truck of yours looks good after buff and wax. Mine will be kept in the garage, so definitely won’t be exposed to UV or outdoor elements. I will try to find a good wax and see how long her luster lasts

HUFFINCOSMOLINE said:

So here’s the thing. Since I polished and buffed out the truck I was very happy with the results. But overtime the clear fades back out and has oxidation spots. After I buffed and polished it I followed it up with a ceramic coat. Maybe a good coat of wax would seal it better than ceramic? Or maybe I need to use a better quality ceramic? Not sure.

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Looks great! But doesn’t look like it’s base/clear. Did it buff out clear or was the pad red after buffing?

Grit dog said:

Looks great! But doesn’t look like it’s base/clear. Did it buff out clear or was the pad red after buffing?

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Yes I believe it’s an old single stage paint. The pad did transfer some red paint after buffing. I have not had good luck keeping single stage paints shiny. Seems like they all dull out after time. I don’t have any close up pics but it has fine check cracks in the paint on the hood. I assume from age and heat. Not sure. It’s due for a base clear, but I’m gonna try to preserve what I have for a while. If I can keep it looking half way decent.

HUFFINCOSMOLINE said:

Yes I believe it’s an old single stage paint. The pad did transfer some red paint after buffing. I have not had good luck keeping single stage paints shiny. Seems like they all dull out after time. I don’t have any close up pics but it has fine check cracks in the paint on the hood. I assume from age and heat. Not sure. It’s due for a base clear, but I’m gonna try to preserve what I have for a while. If I can keep it looking half way decent.

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There’s no luck involved. It’s just old paint. Assuming you don’t park it in that nice garage. If you did, it wouldn’t get dull.
Even outdoors in the shade like a carport allows more uv.
Hell, windows even doo. I seen an old car in this geezers garage been there for years untouched. The whole car was shiny except the part of it that got light thru the window.

I use Pentrol for stuff like that.

Last 3-4 months, but only takes 47 cents to wipe another coat on.

HUFFINCOSMOLINE said:

So here’s the thing. Since I polished and buffed out the truck I was very happy with the results. But overtime the clear fades back out and has oxidation spots. After I buffed and polished it I followed it up with a ceramic coat. Maybe a good coat of wax would seal it better than ceramic? Or maybe I need to use a better quality ceramic? Not sure.

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I've been going through the same thing with my son's S10 I just bought him. It has original paint in great condition other than being chalked out. I've buffed it three times. With all the pollin we've been getting the last week I have to wash it every couple days. And every wash there are areas that look like the've never been buffed. I tried a rotary buffer with a wool pad and Mequir's Ultimate Compound. A DA buffer with a medium pad, and a fin

HUFFINCOSMOLINE said:

So here’s the thing. Since I polished and buffed out the truck I was very happy with the results. But overtime the clear fades back out and has oxidation spots. After I buffed and polished it I followed it up with a ceramic coat. Maybe a good coat of wax would seal it better than ceramic? Or maybe I need to use a better quality ceramic? Not sure.

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I've been going through the same thing with my son's S10 I just bought him. It has original paint in great condition other than being chalked out. I've buffed it three times. With all the pollin we've been getting the last week I have to wash it every couple days. And after every wash there are areas that look like the've never been buffed. We spent an entire day with a clay bar. Then I tried a rotary buffer with a wool pad and Mequir's Ultimate Compound. Next a DA buffer with a medium pad and Ultimate Compound, and a finally a Ultra fine pad on the DA with Mequir's Show Car Glaze. I've done all these steps three times.

I'm also having a bitch of a time getting the black foam adhesive off the tailgate when I pulled off the clear rubber logo trim piece. But that probably needs another thread.

I bought two Milwaukee buffers, a small and a large. I wash often, wax about three or four times a year, and things look good. On the K20, just got the box painted, six base, three clear. Single stage works fine if you put it on thick enough so that it can be colorsanded, then keep it waxed. Waxing is the key.

That said I think some old paint that fades is just not able to be shined up.
I have a 74 Jeep. Original paint except hood and 1 fender re painted. Orig is shiny. The repaint is not. And there’s zero improvement even with machine cutting or polishing.
Who knows when it was repainted or with what type of paint.