Interior Journal

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Dleslie212

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Sep 2, 2019
Posts
333
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258
Location
Phoenix
First Name
Dustin
Truck Year
1977
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
5.7L 350
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Dleslie212

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 2, 2019
Posts
333
Reaction score
258
Location
Phoenix
First Name
Dustin
Truck Year
1977
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
5.7L 350
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Dleslie212

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 2, 2019
Posts
333
Reaction score
258
Location
Phoenix
First Name
Dustin
Truck Year
1977
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
5.7L 350
I think I finally have most of the rot out. I was NOT expecting this much when I started lmao. Got the first cab mount bushing out and a bunch of new panels from LMC here

Next part will be to clean up as much of the surface rust I can still see and spray it down with some rust converter and then see if I can’t figure out how the hell these panels fit together. I’m so done with drilling spot welds! Screw that
 

Dleslie212

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Posts
333
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Location
Phoenix
First Name
Dustin
Truck Year
1977
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
5.7L 350
I got the two rear cab mount locations figured out today. I preemptively used a hole saw on the driver side cab floor and peeled it up to expose the captured nut. I assumed I'd need to before i even started but turns out the bolt came out without needing to access the nut.

Everything I've read said there's no way to locate the rear locations without measuring and what not. On mine however, there are two tiny little holes directly above the cab mounts, just the perfect size to get a PB Blaster straw in there and soak them down. On the driver side, I used that hole as the pilot for my hole saw and the location was dead nuts above the captured nut. Couldn't have been more perfect. I think I'll try removing the passenger side bolt before I make a hole above that one and see if I'm lucky like the drivers side
 

Dleslie212

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 2, 2019
Posts
333
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258
Location
Phoenix
First Name
Dustin
Truck Year
1977
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
5.7L 350
Well i spoke too soon. Shockingly, the passenger side is completely loose - I'm talking i can spin it with my fingers, and also push up and down on it. It has been doing absolutely zero to keep the cab in place. Anyhow, the captured nut is just spinning on pass side. I made another hole and will have to figure out how to fix that. Maybe tack weld the nut in place. Done for today
 

Tank6x2

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Location
Edmonton Alberta Canada
First Name
Kurt
Truck Year
79/86
Truck Model
C30
Engine Size
350, TH400.4:10 gears 2WD
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I know these pains all too well
 

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Tank6x2

You’re Awesome Know That!
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Posts
1,270
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Location
Edmonton Alberta Canada
First Name
Kurt
Truck Year
79/86
Truck Model
C30
Engine Size
350, TH400.4:10 gears 2WD
Looks like you have it worse than me for sure
Past that point, I side tracked myself for 2 years on my hood mod- that’s why these are projects
 

Dleslie212

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Location
Phoenix
First Name
Dustin
Truck Year
1977
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
5.7L 350
I got the grill removed and the two core support body mount bushing removed today. Neither one was tight - they both spun freely with fingers. So far that makes 3 out of the 5 I've removed so far not even close to tight. Time to try number 6 - passenger side floorboard
 

Dleslie212

Full Access Member
Joined
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Posts
333
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Location
Phoenix
First Name
Dustin
Truck Year
1977
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
5.7L 350
Getting ready to start back up on this now that the hottest months are over with. Wanting to get interior finished before winter (truck driving season in Arizona) starts.

Since my last post, I've got all of the body mounts replaced except for under drivers floorboard. I still dont have the metal work done, but need to get started on it again. I have POR-15, 2 cases of KilMat, new vinyl flooring and brand new seat belts on the way.

Next few weeks I'll be ordering new bench seat foam and vinyl, headboard, headboard trim and dash mat to finish up. After that, I plan on converting power windows to manual. Lastly, a new vintage air system
 

Scottgenex

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Joined
Sep 22, 2024
Posts
61
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Location
Utah
First Name
Dakota
Truck Year
1976
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
8.1
Gotta love interior work. I had similar rot. I had to redo the entire driver floor, kick panel, cab mount, inner and outer rocker, inner and outer cab corner; on just the driver side. Passenger side only need some patching and a cab corner.

I didn't take many pics since I was just trying to get through it. However, in my case I wanted to know why I had that much rot on one side. Sure, old truck and common rust spots, still wanted to find out and prevent it from happening again. I started pouring water over it. Door seals were OK, replaced them anyway. Windows were the same.

Turns out it was two things; the drip rails above the door (mounting holes). However the majority of it was coming from the firewall/cowl. The factory seam silicone stuff had deteriorated towards the driver side letting water go down in the engine bay on the firewall. A rust hole formed where some lines came through the wall, rain water traveled that path into the cab just below the pedals. Had a vinyl floor that didn't let it evaporate. Problem found.

I peeled all old seam stuff out and applied fresh stuff. No more leak. Too bad I found out after I did engine swap cause the hole is too tight of an area to cut and weld. That's a later project.

With the seat, I restored mine and while I was in there I put some heated seat/back pads in. Highly recommended if you're in a cold state.
 

Tank6x2

You’re Awesome Know That!
Lifetime Supporting Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2017
Posts
1,270
Reaction score
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Location
Edmonton Alberta Canada
First Name
Kurt
Truck Year
79/86
Truck Model
C30
Engine Size
350, TH400.4:10 gears 2WD
Gotta love interior work. I had similar rot. I had to redo the entire driver floor, kick panel, cab mount, inner and outer rocker, inner and outer cab corner; on just the driver side. Passenger side only need some patching and a cab corner.

I didn't take many pics since I was just trying to get through it. However, in my case I wanted to know why I had that much rot on one side. Sure, old truck and common rust spots, still wanted to find out and prevent it from happening again. I started pouring water over it. Door seals were OK, replaced them anyway. Windows were the same.

Turns out it was two things; the drip rails above the door (mounting holes). However the majority of it was coming from the firewall/cowl. The factory seam silicone stuff had deteriorated towards the driver side letting water go down in the engine bay on the firewall. A rust hole formed where some lines came through the wall, rain water traveled that path into the cab just below the pedals. Had a vinyl floor that didn't let it evaporate. Problem found.

I peeled all old seam stuff out and applied fresh stuff. No more leak. Too bad I found out after I did engine swap cause the hole is too tight of an area to cut and weld. That's a later project.

With the seat, I restored mine and while I was in there I put some heated seat/back pads in. Highly recommended if you're in a cold state.
Where are the Pics man! Love seeing and believing
 

Scottgenex

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Joined
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Posts
61
Reaction score
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Location
Utah
First Name
Dakota
Truck Year
1976
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
8.1
I didn't snap too many. This is all I could find. First time doing bodywork, so she ain't pretty, but functional.
 

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Scottgenex

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Joined
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Posts
61
Reaction score
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Location
Utah
First Name
Dakota
Truck Year
1976
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
8.1
A
 

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Scottgenex

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 22, 2024
Posts
61
Reaction score
134
Location
Utah
First Name
Dakota
Truck Year
1976
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
8.1
A
 

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