Need to replace rubber fuel lines on top of both tanks….

[Long Rider]

The original rubber fuel lines from the tank to the hard lines were a lot heavier than anything I could find when I installed a new tank and sending unit. In order to protect the new lines I put some old garden hose over the new rubber gas line. Cost almost nothing (clamps) and works great.

 

[jwroblesk]

Hey Gary, What rig did you get from Summit to assist you with Bed removal? Joe

 

[MJJN]

Here are some pics (1982 C20) of what things look like if you decide to dop the tank.

 

[Dixie Pride]

1985 K20 had since new.While i had the bed off i replaced my dual tanks and soft and hard hoses.Bed bolts can be hard to get off they are more like a carrage bolt.Tank strap bolts can be tought too.I did float replaement while i had the tanks out.Sometimes the easest jub can be a bitch.Dual tanks are different size on my truck than single tanks.Hard part was finding the medal filler tube,i ended up making my own buying pre bent SS pipe.Put rubber tex on the bottom of tanks too. Hard to find tanks as thick as the original.I did it anybody can do it.My truck is Labeled REVERENT BLACK .3" body lift ,4" rear & 5" front suspension lift with cut-out fender flairs and 44" Mudders.I am still a kid at 67

 

[Dixie Pride]

1985 K20 I forgot i used my tractor with a log boom and 4 straps to take the bed of and back on it was a little trickey but made it work, dont forget to unhook the electric, taillight brake line clips .

 

[Ricko1966]

Dropping tanks don't eff with the tank straps. Unbolt the the tank brackets from the frame. Tank straps are a bit#h and 1/2 the time break, bed bolts,again usually a PITA, tank brackets un bolt easy because of where they are,and that the bolts are short and in capture nuts,they don't have the same rust problem as bed bolts and tank straps.

 

[tman]

I just wanted to say that if you take a Dcell battery and connect it to the fuel gauge the level should go to 1/2 tank , that will show if the gauge is working.

 

[75BEASTK20]

Loosely cover tank(s) with a wet blanket underneath, to avoid sparks hitting any tanks after pumping out as much fuel as possible. Disconnect hose(s) from filler tube(s) with zip cutter (WEAR PPE GLOVES AND GOGGLES) Plasma cut the bolts from underneath. This should take approximately 6 seconds. Hammer whats left of the bolt through the holes from the bottom. Hook old bed to Cummins in 4-LO and let 'er rip. Make sure there is nothing in front or beside ANY trucks. That's if you DON'T want to save anything on the bed. Mine was entirely rusted trash - hence the Cummins approach. Or you can use a bed lifter $$$ and drive the truck away from the box. Quite boring and mundane approach in my opinion. I've done both ways. Cummins yank off is much MUCH more fun. Stand safely away from area. The neighbors will be watching the 'show' closely..........sipping a cold beverage. Get your neighbor to carefully set down his cool beverage (as not to spill any) and ask nicely for him to lift the bed off the ground with his tow truck and place mangled bed onto the Cummins bed with 2x4's or bigger underneath, to avoid scratching your Cummins bed. We don't want any unneccesary damage to occur. Strap down securely. Drive safely to the dump. Resume sipping cold beverages. Remain calm.

 

[Dukester68]

Personally, I'd raise the bed (It's 6 bolts I THINK), then while you're replacing hoses and sending units (if needed), do the rear cab mounts at the same time. Go polyurethane body mount bushings. Tightens everything up good.** Check your grounds too**. Fixes a lot of possible issues when you raise the bed.

This has been completed as far as tge bed removed. I have replaced both sender units and cleaned up the grounding areas on both sides and replaced the fuel lines. Im still getting wrong readings on my gauge when on the drivers side tank. The right side tank reads almost empty as it’s probably correct but when i switch the tank back over it only goes up to a quarter plus. I pull the connection on sender separately and both go to full on the gauge. I can hear it switching and it runs on either tank. Im stumped. Thx for your recommendation. I will repost this in the appropriate area.

 

[Dukester68]

Personally, I'd raise the bed (It's 6 bolts I THINK), then while you're replacing hoses and sending units (if needed), do the rear cab mounts at the same time. Go polyurethane body mount bushings. Tightens everything up good.** Check your grounds too**. Fixes a lot of possible issues when you raise the bed.

The bed removal has been completed. Now to fix my fuel gauge issue.

 

[Dukester68]

The bed removal has been completed. Now to fix my fuel gauge issue.

Thx for the help!! The bed removal was so easy I couldn’t believe it but I couldn’t have done it without all your help thank you

 

[Dukester68]

I prefer to drop the tanks,with fill tube and brackets attached. With a cordless impact, zap out the 8 tank bracket bolts,a cordless drill to zap out the filler neck screws,a pair of pruning shears to reach up and cut the old hoses and a gear wrench to undo the tank ground. it's less than 20 minutes to drop the tank. 3 screws 10 bolts cut the hoses at the sending unit,the tank is on the ground.

I was able to move the bed back about a foot. Gave me room to get in there and replace tge senders and hose’s. Thank you!

 

[Dukester68]

I just replaced the tank along with the soft and hard lines on my 1985 K20. Single tank, driver's side. I started by dropping the tank which pulled off the rubber hoses between the tank and the hard lines. These were only about 6 inches long so the tank is not coming down without something bending or pulling off. However that is not the problem....getting new lines in and secure and getting the tank back up installed. Ultimately I ended up removing the bed....engine lift and a jig from Summit...actually a one-man job that way.

If you are going to replace your hard lines please let me know. I had a confusing time trying to order the right ones. I should be able to point you in the right direction.

Hi! My lines were in great condition so i cant help you there. Sorry

 

[Dukester68]

You NEED 2 people or a welder to remove bed bolts unless you just cut em off or split the nuts. They are 100% guaranteed to spin unless someone is standing on the bolt head or you tack them to the bed floor.
Even if they are not corroded, they’re about 20% guaranteed to spin.
Just a heads up.

Hi! All bed bolts were like new condition so i guess i got lucky. I was able to move the bed back enough to work on the sender units, new fuel lines. Thank you for your help!

 

[Ricko1966]

I was able to move the bed back about a foot. Gave me room to get in there and replace tge senders and hose’s. Thank you!

Awesome,glad it worked out.