Surface rust (and more) questions

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mdesign

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First post to the forms here and I’m pretty excited about the squarebody I found. Been looking around for a truck for quite some time.

I’m attaching photos of a 1976 Chevrolet Silverado K10. Looking for advice on the rust throughout and how to correctly handle to ensure this survivor keeps on the road. I don’t have body work tools, toolbox better suited for work under the hood.

It was repainted in the late 80s and here’s the patina that it sits in.
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Here’s some shots underneath, obviously quite a bit of surface rust and even some decent holes on things like the inner fenders (could buy new steel for that).
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Rocker panels looked relatively good, the only major eaten-through spot is in the rear wheel well about a 2 inch hole.

This old boy has been sitting for quite some time, though it does have a rebuilt engine that’s barely broken in - things look/sound very good mechanically. Any and all advice, insights, and things to look for specifically regarding the body/rust is appreciated. Thanks!
 

Ricko1966

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Wash and degrease everything good. Then spray everything topside,bottom side, frame, fender wells, inside the doors everything you can get to with Ospho. Pump it up in a garden sprayer and go to town. It will stop and prevent rust and buy you time until you do what you want with it.
 
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mdesign

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Thanks! I’ve been reading about poc-15 and it’s been recommended - seems like a good route if going to finish frame, etc.

Also read Bar Keepers cleaner would be good route to go in paint/body. Any experience with those?
 

Ricko1966

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Por 15s magic is in the metal prep wash. Phosphoric acid wash ( like ospho) that's where the magic is you kill and treat the rust then top coat it to protect it.Nice thing about ospho is it doesn't need top coated right away.Read up on it. And study your POR 15 msd,same game,just better hype. Degrease, Phosphoric acid wash, top coat. You'll read upon guys that say their POR 15 failed.They didn't use the phosphoric acid wash, that is the real deal, and top coat with whatever.
 

82sbshortbed

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Only way I know to get rid of surface rust is to sand it off. Get you a good dual action sander or DA sander and sand it off before it starts to pit the metal too bad. Then go back and spray a sandable primer on it. That should fill the little pits in the metal. Then you sand it smooth and she's ready to paint.

You can get some spot puddy for any bigger pits the primer won't fill in. It's like Bondo for smaller spots and then sand it down and feather into the primer. Hope this helps.

Welcome from Texas nice lookin truck btw
 

Itali83

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I’ll second the failed Por-15 Scenario. I never did the prep past degrease and de-scale and it didn’t last. I wouldn’t use por because there are other less priced things to use that convert rust just as well.
Ben
 

mdesign

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Good to know about the Por15 failed attempts and needing that prep - most videos you see they just sand and coat, so thank you for that!
 

mdesign

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Only way I know to get rid of surface rust is to sand it off. Get you a good dual action sander or DA sander and sand it off before it starts to pit the metal too bad. Then go back and spray a sandable primer on it. That should fill the little pits in the metal. Then you sand it smooth and she's ready to paint.

You can get some spot puddy for any bigger pits the primer won't fill in. It's like Bondo for smaller spots and then sand it down and feather into the primer. Hope this helps.

Welcome from Texas nice lookin truck btw

That’s great advice, thanks!

I may try and sand it all down, clean it up, and rub linseed compound to keep that patina look before considering primer, fill, and repaint - any opposition to that route?
 

Ricko1966

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The magic is the phosphoric acid wash it kills the rust and etches the metal for adhesion. Then on stuff like frame wheel wells etc. Spray it with enamel.Again the POR15 magic isn't the paint its the metal prep(ospho)
 

Ricko1966

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That’s great advice, thanks!

I may try and sand it all down, clean it up, and rub linseed compound to keep that patina look before considering primer, fill, and repaint - any opposition to that route?


If someone knows about this or similiar please post. I have a couple I'd like to preserve, as is, cracked faded surface rust here and there.Id like it to stay looking old and used without degrading further.
 

Ricko1966

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Only way I know to get rid of surface rust is to sand it off. Get you a good dual action sander or DA sander and sand it off before it starts to pit the metal too bad. Then go back and spray a sandable primer on it. That should fill the little pits in the metal. Then you sand it smooth and she's ready to paint.

You can get some spot puddy for any bigger pits the primer won't fill in. It's like Bondo for smaller spots and then sand it down and feather into the primer. Hope this helps.

Welcome from Texas nice lookin truck btw

After the metals clean,acid wash it ( metal etch)before primer unless your using an etching primer.I'd still etch it first, but I tend to overdue, over think things. My cherry picker will lift over 10ft, not intentional, as I was reading the plans I thought, I'm doing this to be good, not cheaper so I upgraded everything added here, etc. the insane lift was an accidental by product.Like I've said before if I egg out a hole to make something fit I weld a flat washer where the hole is supposed to be.I know overkill.
 
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BKING33

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I've painted 2 trucks and several trailers with POR15. Both trucks came out fine. one of my trailers did get surface rust on paint. not sure what went wrong on it.
prep work is most important step on any paint job. They do make a clear coat POR15 product. I'm thinking about using it on my current driver to keep the patina look going. Been driving black trucks since '96 and not looking to do another. I always remove as much "loose" rust as I can before paint. POR15 Paint does stick better to a rougher surface.
 

Wumbo

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FYI, Ospho will convert the rust to iron phosphate, which neutralizes it, but it will turn black.

If you want to keep the patina, just wash and dry it, and coat it with boiled linseed oil. You will have to reapply once a year or so.
 

AuroraGirl

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when you clean up your cab clean the rubber up or replace the seals for the roof markers. That driver-side one is critical because its where the power comes up and its where mine had some water damage.
 

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Lay on a coat of sealer on top of the primer before you lay down paint.
 

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