Steering play

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shanegtr

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1989
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R2500 Suburban
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Hi all, my steering on my burb is a bit vague when straight ahead - there's a little bit of play at the steering wheel. Is there any adjustment available at the steering box to tone it down a little?
 

scwaters

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I had the same issue with mice 76 SWB. I was certain it was the steering box. Following the rule to start with the most simple solution first I replaced the steering dampener with an aftermarket unit and it all but solved the problem. Be certain of the steering dampner condition before you fool around with the steering box.
 

idahovette

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Check ALL ,including wheel bearings and ball joints and the linkage along with the frame where the steering box attaches 1st
 

shanegtr

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I had the same issue with mice 76 SWB. I was certain it was the steering box. Following the rule to start with the most simple solution first I replaced the steering dampener with an aftermarket unit and it all but solved the problem. Be certain of the steering dampner condition before you fool around with the steering box.
Don't have a damper on mine, doesn't look like the 2wd has provision for one either
 

shanegtr

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Check ALL ,including wheel bearings and ball joints and the linkage along with the frame where the steering box attaches 1st
All the linkages and ball joints seem ok with no movement
 

scwaters

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There are aftermarket kits for adding a SD
 

Dutch Rutter

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I just went through this myself on my K20. Not that you'll have the same parts being the 2wd. I was always told "that is just how these trucks came from the factory" Total BS.

After thoroughly inspecting everything, It came down to having the entire drag link replaced, still had some wobble then I had the steering box itself replaced by a reputable shop. Solved my issue completely. Definitely check EVERYTHING else out first though. Easiest way to find the source of the moment is to have someone else in the not started truck, turning the wheel side to side of the play, while you look under the hood and at the steering components. Start from the steering stem and work your way down.
 

K201979

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If it ends up being the box they're not too bad to rebuild. I've only done one and i did lose it a couple times and make a couple mistakes but not too bad. There is videos on utube if you want to get an idea of whats involved. Ther is also two adjustments to tighten the box up without rebuild but its easy to f up if u dont kno what ur dealing with. Also on video on utube if interested. Im glad to answer any ?'s u might have. Rag joint is another place to look for slop.
 

shanegtr

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If it ends up being the box they're not too bad to rebuild. I've only done one and i did lose it a couple times and make a couple mistakes but not too bad. There is videos on utube if you want to get an idea of whats involved. Ther is also two adjustments to tighten the box up without rebuild but its easy to f up if u dont kno what ur dealing with. Also on video on utube if interested. Im glad to answer any ?'s u might have. Rag joint is another place to look for slop.
Got any links to you tube vids?
 

K201979

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Cant figure out how to share a link but u can search "saginaw steering gear rebuild". Theres a 2 part video by "chris craft thats unprofesional but good info. One by BleepinJeep and a whole series by hutchhiperf that are good. These are the ones i used. If you decide to do it id be happy to share my experience with u. Good luck!
 

K201979

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The hutchhiperf series is 5 vids. Part one is the adjustments u can make. Then he releases the box is leaking and rebuilds it in the next 4 parts.
 

75gmck25

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I've gone through and replaced all the parts on my K25 (drag link, tie rods, ball joints, rag joint, etc.), and then adjusted the steering box.

To properly adjust the steering box you need to:
- disconnect the tie rods from the steering arm so it moves freely.
- Ensure the steering wheel is centered by moving it through the full range. In my truck there was a flat section of the steering shaft that faced up when it was centered.
- Put an inch lbs torque wrench on the nut in the middle of the steering wheel.
- Loosen the lock nut with a wrench, and tighten down the center screw nut with an allen wrench until the torque needed to move the steering wheel is within specs.
- IIRC the torque was something like 8-12 inch lbs, but I would have to look it up again.

This adjustment takes out the free play in the box, but you don't want to get carried away because it will make the steering bind at certain points. Many guys just crank it down a 1/2 turn at a time (without measuring torque) and see how it feels - there is some risk that it may bind.

On newer trucks (79+?) you can also replace the rag joint with a steering shaft and universal joint from a jeep. However, the splines on older trucks like my '75 are different and you can't use the jeep shaft.

Bruce
 

shanegtr

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Thanks for that guys. My truck needs to pass a roadworthy so getting rid of some of the excessive play will be required
 

75gmck25

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If you watch the first five minutes of this video you can see what is happening when you adjust the sector shaft clearance. The key point is that if you take the adjustment screw too far it will start to bind - a bad thing to happen with your steering.
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If you go to about minutes 7 through 8 you will see what the adjustment screw looks like in the vehicle and how the lock nut works. Its easy to reach and easy to adjust.

At about 10 minutes he shows you how the wheel will turn and not bind if its adjusted right. This is the point where you are told to use an inch-lbs torque wrench to verify how much it takes to turn the wheel through the entire arc.

These are the specs in my '75 repair manual
Overcenter preload (the lock nut and screw) - max of 3-6 inch-lbs in excess of thrust bearing preload
Thrust bearing preload - 1/2-2 inch-lbs (I read in several references that this should be fine, and could be left alone unless you are rebuilding the steering box)

Bruce
 

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