stereo build.

[wheelerboy12]

so i just traded my friend two of my snowboards for two 6x9's with boxes and a 12'' sub and box and then my dad basically told me that once i put my doors back on my truck (witch i did) i can use whatever i want out of his car (engine is blown ) and it has sick stereo so im going to stuff speakers and amps everywhere and we are also going into portland to go to outrageous audio and get a whole setup for his truck so ill probably have both our rigs in this thread its gonna be sick.

 

[wheelerboy12]

so i finally finished striping all the speakers and wires out of my dads accord, got lots of goodies out of it... although i did realize his amps are all ****. and they will be the first things i upgrade. he has two 1000 watt subs powered off of a 160 watt 2 channel RF amp. and his other two are both 2 channel and 50 watts a channel... witch i dont get bc his car hit hard as hell and was loud and clear even though the severe lack of power the subs were getting like 1/8th of their max, and the interior speakers were geting only 1/5 of what they can handle, will have to wait and see i wont be spending anymore money on it till after it gets registered and stuff, install coming tomorrow and a picture or two coming an a few minutes

 

[Christian Nelson]

Wattage is just one measure of energy consumption. Does not necessarily translate into more wattage=louder.

I have, for example, a pidly little 40 Watt tube amp with a 10" speaker for my guitar amp, and I will make your ears bleed almost, thing has no problems keeping up with 200+ watt amps.

There's RMS vs peak wattage to account for, and the efficiency of the speakers to produce more sound. Matching up your impedance for the overall speaker package to get your best sound quality and "loudness" will get you much further than just looking at wattage alone.

Best investment is good efficient (look at the numbers for frequency response, etc) speakers designed for the sound range you are looking for, and use active cross overs to cut the sound from them that is out of their range or undesirable.

Sometimes you get what you pay for, sometimes you are paying for a name stamped on the plate.

so i finally finished striping all the speakers and wires out of my dads accord, got lots of goodies out of it... although i did realize his amps are all ****. and they will be the first things i upgrade. he has two 1000 watt subs powered off of a 160 watt 2 channel RF amp. and his other two are both 2 channel and 50 watts a channel... witch i dont get bc his car hit hard as hell and was loud and clear even though the severe lack of power the subs were getting like 1/8th of their max, and the interior speakers were geting only 1/5 of what they can handle, will have to wait and see i wont be spending anymore money on it till after it gets registered and stuff, install coming tomorrow and a picture or two coming an a few minutes

 

[wheelerboy12]

Wattage is just one measure of energy consumption. Does not necessarily translate into more wattage=louder.

I have, for example, a pidly little 40 Watt tube amp with a 10" speaker for my guitar amp, and I will make your ears bleed almost, thing has no problems keeping up with 200+ watt amps.

There's RMS vs peak wattage to account for, and the efficiency of the speakers to produce more sound. Matching up your impedance for the overall speaker package to get your best sound quality and "loudness" will get you much further than just looking at wattage alone.

Best investment is good efficient (look at the numbers for frequency response, etc) speakers designed for the sound range you are looking for, and use active cross overs to cut the sound from them that is out of their range or undesirable.

Sometimes you get what you pay for, sometimes you are paying for a name stamped on the plate.

i know, the ratings i gave were RMS though not peak.

 

[Christian Nelson]

Well, 150Watts RMS is pretty good amp, if you are actually getting a true 150 watts flowing.

Think about this also, if you have a 40 amp alternator, you will be draining your battery, instead of charging it with the truck running, if you actually are consuming 480 watts. These amps that say on them 1000 watts are full of it, it's just a stamped number on the housing. You'd need 3 alternators and a bank of batteries to sustain that for more than 10 minutes..

If this amp "bumped" the Honda, it should be plenty for your truck, where the speakers will be right next to you.

i know, the ratings i gave were RMS though not peak.

 

[guitarfreak235]

so i finally finished striping all the speakers and wires out of my dads accord, got lots of goodies out of it... although i did realize his amps are all ****. and they will be the first things i upgrade. he has two 1000 watt subs powered off of a 160 watt 2 channel RF amp. and his other two are both 2 channel and 50 watts a channel... witch i dont get bc his car hit hard as hell and was loud and clear even though the severe lack of power the subs were getting like 1/8th of their max, and the interior speakers were geting only 1/5 of what they can handle, will have to wait and see i wont be spending anymore money on it till after it gets registered and stuff, install coming tomorrow and a picture or two coming an a few minutes

going from 80 watts to 1000 will gain you only 11-12 decibels. one watt actually is enough to get speakers pretty loud. (maybe a few for subs). an average speaker is between 85-92 decibels of sensitivity(subs and speakers). this measure is at ONE watt. ear damage begins at 80. the law of diminishing returns applies x1000 when it comes to speaker wattage.

 

[wheelerboy12]

wow i suck, i got caught up in install and didnt post a single picture, ill snap a bunch tomorrow when i get home from school and it will be major update time lol