Dead after new new alternator belt

[AdamandGreyson]

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Post grounded out on that line that runs right behind it, the second photo is what I believe to be a fusible link, but asking because I am not 100% positive.

 

[AdamandGreyson]

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[AdamandGreyson]

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Does this look like it could be an issue?? Enough to make the truck completely dead??

 

[Ricko1966]

That is a burnt fusible link,looks another one right behind it. I'd bet that's your problem

 

[DoubleDingo]

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Does this look like it could be an issue?? Enough to make the truck completely dead??

Is that sitting right up against the exhaust? If so, yes, that's an issue. The wire being split is an issue as well. You have some rewiring to do.

 

[AdamandGreyson]

Wonderful! I have been searching the wiring “harness” for that to just start from scratch, but I’m not finding one, probably cause I don’t know what it’s called! Sorry all, new to this stuff!

 

[DoubleDingo]

If you're going to rewire the whole thing get a pre-made harness. If you're just replacing a few wires, do that and run it

 

[Sad Sack]

Wires, metal and heat make for bad mojo. And yup, your protective boot is missing.

 

[AdamandGreyson]

Thank you, I’ll see if I can find a new wiring harness for the alternator/starter and just start from scratch.

 

[Sad Sack]

Thank you, I’ll see if I can find a new wiring harness for the alternator/starter and just start from scratch.

Or re-evaluate and just repair what’s bad… there’s always alternatives and sometimes they are cheaper and accomplish the same result but you be the judge.

 

[AdamandGreyson]

I will likely just have to replace those wires that are bad (the ones in the picture), I am unsure what exactly type of wires those are, my wiring and electrical knowledge is very lacking. You want me to remove an old part and put a new one on, I'm ok with that!!!

 

[DoubleDingo]

I will likely just have to replace those wires that are bad (the ones in the picture), I am unsure what exactly type of wires those are, my wiring and electrical knowledge is very lacking. You want me to remove an old part and put a new one on, I'm ok with that!!!

I hear ya on the wiring. But, once you do it you'll gain the knowledge and some level of comfort to do it more. It's just like plumbing in your house, except the wires are the pipes. Big ones convey large amounts of electricity, small ones little amounts. Just match the gage, definitely don't go smaller gage, and make sure the connections are good and routing is the same as what came out.

 

[Ricko1966]

I will likely just have to replace those wires that are bad (the ones in the picture), I am unsure what exactly type of wires those are, my wiring and electrical knowledge is very lacking. You want me to remove an old part and put a new one on, I'm ok with that!!!

You need to buy fusible links those aren't just wires. Do some research on fusible links.

 

[Scruffy49]

You need to buy fusible links those aren't just wires. Do some research on fusible links.

And DO NOT try to replace with an inline fuse… A really nice metallic rootbeer with white roof 1968 C20 got sent to the scrappers over that. Uncle’s “mechanic friend” replaced a starter fusible link with a fuse… Toasted trucks don’t smell very good…

 

[Turbo4whl]

If ….and myself not being all that smart, if you blew your fusible link moving an alternator to change a belt then there exists a critical flaw with the electrical system that creates a short and blows the link. Post back results of investigation.

I'll jump in here. First, that alternator is NOT clocked right for your application. The Alt. hot should not be able to hit anything when moving it for adjustment. (more about clocking in a moment)

You want me to remove an old part and put a new one on, I'm ok with that!!!

Little tease.. you didn't do so well changing the belt. Now in your defense, previous owners have put a few things back together wrong.

Pictures:
#18 Wires to the starter should be in a metal tube, following down from the back of the engine. No tube, wires just waiting for an issue.
#17 That solenoid is not factory???
#16 Clocking issue, the power output lead should be up top, away from the block. No way should it be able to touch anything when sliding to change a belt.

Re-clocking an 10SI is not that hard, but there are things that need to be done correctly. I'll post how if anyone wants to know.