Flattening the Floor to Allow Use of Any Seat

[Dejure]

Was just reading another thread and was going to post, but my post was way off in another direction, so I figured, rather than rabbit trailing, I drop a new thread to the end of modifying the floor so I never had to be concerned about which seats I wanted fitting, without problems like putting our heads to near the cab roof.

At most, I want to only have to worry about brackets that would raise whichever seats I installed at any time in the future.

When I had my old 69, I installed captains seats. Not a common thing back 40 years ago. I had to have about six inches cut off the pedestals. After that, they were some of the most comfortable and convenient seats I've ever had (tall backs, recliners (as much as a Chevy cab would allow), swivels (360-degrees) and a flip of a leaver and I could remove them to work in the cab.

Wanted to go down that road again. Talk about sticker shock. AND, I was looking at the humps under the seats of the 78 I bought and realized there was no way I was going to pull off a simple install again.

I was surprised to see both sides have similar humps, but the middle drops down. Someone mentioned gas tanks, but the photo indicates there must be a significant gap under the rider's seat, because, well, physics. Gas doesn't store well uphill.

To install the electric seats I have, it looks like the humps need to go.

I have a nice wire feed welder, but have never ran a bead in my life. Looks like it's time to learn.

Since I'll have to drop the tank, I want to figure out every problem I will or could run into before even starting.

Since all the metal is in really good shape, that should reduce complications a bunch of degrees.

I'm looking for tips on (said another way, feel free to say, NO, YOU IDIOT, I just ask you to include a "why"):


- A good metal gauge to start with. I'm thinking 12 gauge, since the project will result in a, roughly, 20" x 20" flat spot. The hood braces came today and 14 gauge seems less than impressive, when there are no curves and such to strengthen it.

- To that, I am thinking some stiffners, with a mind to avoiding compromising future installs, as could be a problem if I set angle iron in a location another seat would like to claim for its brackets.

- It would seem I should be able to tailor pieces that overlap the flat center portion and such with little problem. Then trim the metal to overlap and tie to other pieces, with a bend here and there.

- It seems, regarding that gas not being stored uphill thing, these mods aren't likely to fight with tank placement.

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[TotalyHucked]

Don't forget, the head of the sending units stick above the tanks. There's probably and inch or less of "free" space realistically. This mod has been done many times, Jacob (@Old77) being one of them. He'll know better than most. But what I've seen done, guys typically do away with the saddle tanks and install a rear mounted tank. That way you can truly flatten the floor for the most room possible

 

[xm20k]

Don't forget, the head of the sending units stick above the tanks. There's probably and inch or less of "free" space realistically. This mod has been done many times, Jacob (@Old77) being one of them. He'll know better than most. But what I've seen done, guys typically do away with the saddle tanks and install a rear mounted tank. That way you can truly flatten the floor for the most room possible

The stock tanks sit up in that hump quite a bit, I pulled mine and put a cell in the bed, because my exhaust needed to run under there. The senders are right were the bed and cab meet you can see them thru the gap.

 

[Old77]

And to add to the other input, you'll not be able to get the floor 100% flat because of the frame rails that run under the seats. When I made my mod (moving gas tank to the back and installing newer gen seats), I think we were able to probably get 75% flat. Measure 23.9423 times and cut once.

 

[Sad Sack]

Trying to go for this look?

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[Old77]

Trying to go for this look?

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When I did the work on mine, it was to fit the GMT800 seats in the truck and make it look like it belonged. Success was had

 

[Scott91370]

I thought about doing this quite a bit but you have to move the tank(s). Could put one large tank at the rear and solve this. If so, you could probably reuse the metal you cut out of the hump area but flattening it and welding it back in place. This way all the thickness would match and be easier to weld.

 

[Old77]

I thought about doing this quite a bit but you have to move the tank(s). Could put one large tank at the rear and solve this. If so, you could probably reuse the metal you cut out of the hump area but flattening it and welding it back in place. This way all the thickness would match and be easier to weld.

Most use a blazer/suburban tank for the rear.

If I remember right, I just used 18 gauge sheet metal Probably wasn't an exact gauge match was pretty dadgum close and definitely close enough to not cause any real welding issues.

 

[bluex]

Or ditch whatever brackets come on your preferred seats, use universal style sliders (or none at all) an do this.

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[TotalyHucked]

If the seats aren't too large, that works great^ Mike at SloshTubz makes a great bracket and slider set, I used it in my truck. It pics up the factory bench mounting points and then has holes for his sliders. Or you can drill new holes if need be. I have Subaru WRX buckets in my truck now

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[xm20k]

Or ditch whatever brackets come on your preferred seats, use universal style sliders (or none at all) an do this.

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If the seats aren't too large, that works great^ Mike at SloshTubz makes a great bracket and slider set, I used it in my truck. It pics up the factory bench mounting points and then has holes for his sliders. Or you can drill new holes if need be. I have Subaru WRX buckets in my truck now

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Similar to how my TMI buckets and console mount

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[Sad Sack]

I've been wanting to update my bench to bucket seats and the setup I like is at LMC but only in black and will stick out like a sore thumb in a tan interior...I'll keep looking.
The one at LMC is more in my price range, TMI seats / console is a tad pricey.

https://www.lmctruck.com/interior/seats/cc-1973-87-lmc-bucket-seats-and-buddy-consoles

 

[TotalyHucked]

I've been wanting to update my bench to bucket seats and the setup I like is at LMC but only in black and will stick out like a sore thumb in a tan interior...I'll keep looking.
The one at LMC is more in my price range, TMI seats / console is a tad pricey.

https://www.lmctruck.com/interior/seats/cc-1973-87-lmc-bucket-seats-and-buddy-consoles

If you go direct to TMI, they have all sorts of colors/stitching/different center options/etc. Most of their dealers just carry the black cuz it sells the most/covers more applications

 

[xm20k]

I've been wanting to update my bench to bucket seats and the setup I like is at LMC but only in black and will stick out like a sore thumb in a tan interior...I'll keep looking.
The one at LMC is more in my price range, TMI seats / console is a tad pricey.

https://www.lmctruck.com/interior/seats/cc-1973-87-lmc-bucket-seats-and-buddy-consoles

If you go direct to TMI, they have all sorts of colors/stitching/different center options/etc. Most of their dealers just carry the black cuz it sells the most/covers more applications

I believe the LMC ones are from TMI, bracket, slider, console, and a bunch of other interior parts just without their logos. They sell the customizable stuff thru their site and have a ton of options, still not cheap thou.

 

[Sad Sack]

I believe the LMC ones are from TMI, bracket, slider, console, and a bunch of other interior parts just without their logos. They sell the customizable stuff thru their site and have a ton of options, still not cheap thou.

Ya, pricey is right, TMI configurator had me at $5700+ for tan colored bench seat with console and bracket, mama mia!