link for disc brake conversion

[spenser21]

so apparently I don't know how to use the search button anymore... does anyone have a link to help me get my 74 k10 drums to disc, but on a budget? are the jegs or summit kits worth it? also im new to all of this and have no idea whats back there. the shoes just suck to do, and I also want something with a little better power for bigger tires. any suggestions help

 

[Frankenchevy]

this was discussed quite thoroughly just recently but allow me to recap.

you need to change most of your brake system to do it correctly. if your truck has vacuum assisted brakes this especially applies to you. you'll need:

caliper brackets, calipers, brake pads, rotors, flex lines, e-brake linkage, new proportioning valve, new master cylinder and possibly some new hard lines. many have switched everything an still had a soft feeling pedal.

I have hydro boost and my setup was working mint, but I did some research and found that the residual valve in the proportioning valve leaves about 10psi of pressure on the rear circuit for the rear shoes. this is a problem with calipers. you don't want them constantly hanging on. so I got a new prop valve. I highly recommend looking into hydro boost if you are going through all this trouble. my pedal feels just as solid as when I had drums.

if you don't address anything besides swapping the calipers and rotors on there, your braking performance may actually be worse than with drums due to the calipers not getting adequate pressure from the drum side of the master cylinder.

so in short, I'm not sure that it can be done correctly on a budget of under $500-800. I'm sure many will disagree but I don't like stuff that's cobbled together or otherwise not well matched parts-wise.

caliper brackets 50
calipers 140ish without core
pads 20ish
rotors 50-100
prop valve 50
master cylinder 50ish
hydroboost 175ish
wheel studs 1-2 bucks a piece times 16

plus axle shaft seals, random fittings and hoses ...and whatever else I forgot.


edit: in short, I would wait to do everything at once and correctly. there are quite a few people who've changed over and been unhappy with the result, and some have gone back to drums.

 

[Frankenchevy]

http://www.chevyk5blazer.com/forums...ylinder-upgrade&highlight=proportioning+valve

http://www.gmt400.com/threads/gmt-400-hydroboost-swap.13105/

 

[spenser21]

this was discussed quite thoroughly just recently but allow me to recap.QUOTE]

Thank you. I have a problem with really soft pedal, from which I understand is common. everything works "well enough", but every now and then I wont have any brakes at all. when I say this, I have only noticed it while backing into my garage. Backing up the driveway with my foot on the pedal, about the time im halfway into the garage my pedal goes to the floor and has nothing. (yeah I put a trash can there now) ive never had any problem during normal driving but if im going to start tearing into the brake system, id prefer to do it all in one shot and upgrade at the same time.

 

[spenser21]

http://www.chevyk5blazer.com/forums...ylinder-upgrade&highlight=proportioning+valve

http://www.gmt400.com/threads/gmt-400-hydroboost-swap.13105/

This is definitely worth looking into as well. Anything is an upgrade as to what I have now. This truck was passed down to a friend who knew nothing about it, then it sat for 4 years doing nothing. So I am totally in the dark as to what will happen next. Just trying to take it one step at a time.

 

[Honky Kong jr]

I made my own kit.

 

[Snoots]

As I understand it, when you go to 4W disc you need to have a master cylinder and prop valve for that application AND if you go hydroboost you need to move the banjo pin to a different location on the brake pedal or your brakes will feel soft. I'll try to find the links and add them.

 

[Honky Kong jr]

As I understand it, when you go to 4W disc you need to have a master cylinder and prop valve for that application AND if you go hydroboost you need to move the banjo pin to a different location on the brake pedal or your brakes will feel soft. I'll try to find the links and add them.

Yes and no. Look at new vehicle brake wear. Pad replacement is roughly 2:1 favoring the rear being replace more often. It eliminates nose dive during braking so your steering axle get less brake force. But do as your kit tells you to I’ve done several disc conversations with out changing the proportioning valve to great success. Again that’s me do what ever you deem safe for you. I also do away with the parking brake which is maybe not in your comfort zone.

 

[Frankenchevy]

I think the main thing with the drum brake prop valve is the residual pressure. my setup felt great with the disc/drum prop valve, no doubt. I was concerned with the rear caliper constantly having that 10lbs of pressure applied, though.

as for the hydro boost vs vacuum brake pedal, I think they are different brake pedal assemblies all together. I think the vacuum boost pedal armature is at a different height or angle. maybe not for our year of trucks, but in the gmt400 link I posted, they mention needing to change the brake pedal when you do hydroboost.

 

[Honky Kong jr]

The brake pedals are different in squares too