PrairieDrifter
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2014
- Posts
- 3,463
- Reaction score
- 4,577
- Location
- North Dakota
- First Name
- Mason
- Truck Year
- 84,79,77,70,48
- Truck Model
- Suburban k10, bonanza k10, c30 C&C, c10, gmc 1/2ton
- Engine Size
- 350, 350, 350, 350, 350
84 k10 suburban. 75ish 12 bolt rear. New brake shoes drums and hardware, wheel cylinders. New master cylinder, the axle hard lines. Soft lines replaced a few years ago with ORD braided lines. the axle has new outer bearings seals and new axle shafts. Almost everything is new.
I've been chasing a brake drag problem. I just can't figure it out. Hardly noticeable till they get real hot, then once real hot they start squeaking, first with light braking, then after sitting at a light or something it'll start almost constantly squeaking and then fully at lower speeds, after enough time driving. Barely noticeable in rpm's, but noticeable.
The drivers side gets hotter, and hotter faster. Which is really throwing me through a loop, doesn't make sense. I've used some old drums and it seemed better at first but now they're adjusted where they want, the old drum is hotter than the other side where I have a new drum that has ALSO been cut down(also confusing). I tried another brand of new drum I believe and I had the same issue right away.
The brakes feel great! They seem to be balanced properly, once the rear shoes are adjusted properly. The rears don't lock up. I can't adjust the shoes off anymore without the pedal suffering, and then it self adjusts back to where it needs to be by itself anyways.
It's pretty obvious it's not a proportioning valve, its acting the same with the new master as with the old. Bleeding brakes was flawless, great flow, little air, definitely not a clogged or collapsed line.
I even thought the axles po had the wrong size brakes for the backing plate. So I tried the 11x2's but they didn't fit right even close. But from my research, these are indeed the big brake backing plates. So the brake size is correct.
Does the 75 ish axle not mix with the 84 master??
I thought maybe the old master was somehow transferring fluid to the rears, and keeping the brakes on, but that's definitely not happening. If the prop valve was the issue I wouldnt have front brakes, if the rears are getting hot. I have front brakes.
Also I know I have good brakes, they stop my 35's just fine. I could try a couple more brands of drums or shoes. But I'm so tired of it, and spending money on shelf parts, or returns.
IM ABOUT TO LOSE MY MIND. I'm about to drop a grand on a disc brake kit. And I really don't want to, not only the money, but the horror stories and mixed reviews.
I've been chasing a brake drag problem. I just can't figure it out. Hardly noticeable till they get real hot, then once real hot they start squeaking, first with light braking, then after sitting at a light or something it'll start almost constantly squeaking and then fully at lower speeds, after enough time driving. Barely noticeable in rpm's, but noticeable.
The drivers side gets hotter, and hotter faster. Which is really throwing me through a loop, doesn't make sense. I've used some old drums and it seemed better at first but now they're adjusted where they want, the old drum is hotter than the other side where I have a new drum that has ALSO been cut down(also confusing). I tried another brand of new drum I believe and I had the same issue right away.
The brakes feel great! They seem to be balanced properly, once the rear shoes are adjusted properly. The rears don't lock up. I can't adjust the shoes off anymore without the pedal suffering, and then it self adjusts back to where it needs to be by itself anyways.
It's pretty obvious it's not a proportioning valve, its acting the same with the new master as with the old. Bleeding brakes was flawless, great flow, little air, definitely not a clogged or collapsed line.
I even thought the axles po had the wrong size brakes for the backing plate. So I tried the 11x2's but they didn't fit right even close. But from my research, these are indeed the big brake backing plates. So the brake size is correct.
Does the 75 ish axle not mix with the 84 master??
I thought maybe the old master was somehow transferring fluid to the rears, and keeping the brakes on, but that's definitely not happening. If the prop valve was the issue I wouldnt have front brakes, if the rears are getting hot. I have front brakes.
Also I know I have good brakes, they stop my 35's just fine. I could try a couple more brands of drums or shoes. But I'm so tired of it, and spending money on shelf parts, or returns.
IM ABOUT TO LOSE MY MIND. I'm about to drop a grand on a disc brake kit. And I really don't want to, not only the money, but the horror stories and mixed reviews.
