92 K case 700R4 tear down

[Paulscrawler78]

Man that sounds likealot of things to juggle that's for sure Lol how ever it sounds pretty fool prof though I can't wait to start my S.A.S in this Tahoe life will be so much easier without the torque bars in the way plus I'll be installing dual exhaust as well I've also been looking for the direct port fuel injection manifold as well and a 4L80E with a Tcase

 

[HotRodPC]

Man that sounds likealot of things to juggle that's for sure Lol how ever it sounds pretty fool prof though I can't wait to start my S.A.S in this Tahoe life will be so much easier without the torque bars in the way plus I'll be installing dual exhaust as well I've also been looking for the direct port fuel injection manifold as well and a 4L80E with a Tcase

Not much at all juggle is my point. Just in detail, it's a lengthy post. All I need is 2 flywheel/flexplates, (1 for autos, 1 for manuals) 2 starters (1 for autos, 1 for manuals), 2 transfers cases with adapters (1 for autos, 1 for manuals), and an Auto Ratchet shifter. That's it. The manuals have their own shifter. Then any one of those 4 transmissions will bolt right in with no mods, cutting or welding. Uses the same trans mounts, crossmembers, driveshafts front and rear and no exhaust mods to get around linkage or over crossmembers since it stays in the same place for all 4 applications the way I'll have it set up.

That's just the way I roll. I like to have options. Also in my 62 and 64 GMC, I had every motor configuration you could imagine too. Big GMC V6, I6, V6, Small Block and Big Block, all without cutting or welding. Just moved motor pads on the frame. and the gas pedal linkage rod, had one for the I6 and one for everything else. And I did have a set of exhaust pipes for each, on the I6, Small and Big Block. The GMC V6 is what I took out of the 64.

 

[Paulscrawler78]

Damn man that's a lot why so many options though.

 

[HotRodPC]

Damn man that's a lot why so many options though.

Why not so many options? More the better.

Back in day, me and the buddies would borrow each other's motor or transmission for a weekend, just to see how it might work with our combo of trans, gear ratio and weight. Or a buddy break his trans, and borrow one til he has funds to have his built. Most of us were racing our daily drivers. Hell, we'd lose $100-$300 on a race, and know with some gear in the rear end we would have won, so run home real quick, do a rear end swap, go back and hit the guys up for a double or nothing to get our money back.

 

[Paulscrawler78]

Lol them good ol days I used to lose 300-3000 a race when I was racing but at the same time I would win 5-10000 at the end of the night

 

[Paulscrawler78]

Still no fing parts idk what my fil is doing

 

[HotRodPC]

Still no fing parts idk what my fil is doing

I'd be pist if he has paid them and don't have them yet. I'd get with him and find out for sure. Transparts USA from FL sure never took that long. 2-3 biz days I had my parts. Now I know you're in Cali, so that adds 2 more days from FL, but still been over 2 weeks now hasn't it?

 

[Paulscrawler78]

Ya but doesn't mean he actually ordered them he is a lagger that way and it ticks me off when he does **** like this

 

[HotRodPC]

Ya but doesn't mean he actually ordered them he is a lagger that way and it ticks me off when he does **** like this

Ohhhh. One of those. So he likely didn't order it.

 

[Paulscrawler78]

OK as far as I can tell half throttle the truck shifts very firm its not slamming into gear or slipping into gear so I think it has something aftermarket done to it. Hotrod what is the best trans pan gasket for the 700 and how tight do I need to have it because its now developed a leak and no matter what I always seems to have a leaky pan regardless of how clean the serface is I'm still looking for the stupid diag port so I can pull and codes

 

[robert8096]

Pan leaking is most likely from someone over tightening the bolts and warping the gasket flange. Happens a lot on stock valve covers. Use a small hammer and flatten the area around the bolt holes. I just give the bolt a 1/2 turn after snug. You can also replace the pan with a thick flange aluminum pan.

 

[Paulscrawler78]

Ya I know about the flang whole streching I've been around this along time Lol but never really dealt with trans pan because all my rides have been stick shifts

 

[HotRodPC]

Ya I know about the flang whole streching I've been around this along time Lol but never really dealt with trans pan because all my rides have been stick shifts

Yes, this is true. Many times overtightened and sqeezed the gasket out, tore it, or clampied it so tight and thinned it that there is a seepage issue with a cork gasket. There are good hard rubber gaskets, or neoprene gaskets that tolerate a little more tightening without being distored. But true, if the pan has been over tightened, no gasket will seal until the pan has been worked over with a ball peen hammer to push back the bolt holes flat with the flange surface.

 

[MrMarty51]

Yes, this is true. Many times overtightened and sqeezed the gasket out, tore it, or clampied it so tight and thinned it that there is a seepage issue with a cork gasket. There are good hard rubber gaskets, or neoprene gaskets that tolerate a little more tightening without being distored. But true, if the pan has been over tightened, no gasket will seal until the pan has been worked over with a ball peen hammer to push back the bolt holes flat with the flange surface.

Some neoprene gaskets have plastic hard washers around the bolt holes, thems the ones You want.

 

[Paulscrawler78]

Ya mine is a light weight rubber gasket I probably over tighted it or something