305 No power.

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Tricky991

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Thanks for that chart, that will help alot. And I am guessing it is still the stock cam.

So basically when #1 is TDC, adjust all the ones in yellow? Then blue for #6 is TDC?
 

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Thanks for that chart, that will help alot. And I am guessing it is still the stock cam.

So basically when #1 is TDC, adjust all the ones in yellow? Then blue for #6 is TDC?

Yesir.
 

Tricky991

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Alright that should be easy lol. I will let you guys know how it turns out!
 

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Follow this chart...

To ensure your at #1 TDC #3 intake will be open
To ensure your at #6 TDC #2 intake will be open

How to ensure proper lash? Lift up and down on push rods until all play is gone then tighten 1/2 turn

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You have to spin the push rod in your fingers and while slowly tightening the rocker arm when the rod stops spinning then tighten an additional 3/4 turn.

If you try pushing and pulling you will not achieve correct lash.
 

firebane

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You have to spin the push rod in your fingers and while slowly tightening the rocker arm when the rod stops spinning then tighten an additional 3/4 turn.

If you try pushing and pulling you will not achieve correct lash.

Not push and pull.. up and down motion.
 

HotRodPC

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OK wait, Wait WAIT !!! Before you go pulling this engine apart for a new timing chain and gears etc, you've mentioned the travel on the previous fuel pump as very little. Of course it really doesn't take all that much, but skimming thru the other posts, noone has yet mentioned the fuel pump lobe on the cam. If you're old fuel pump didn't have much travel, is it possible that it was putting excess pressure on the fuel pump cam lobe and wore it down? Now with the new pump expecting a full swing on the arm, it may not be getting it via worn down fuel pump actuator lobe. Do you know anyone with an inline fuel pump you can wire in and take it for a test drive? Just borrow it and see how it runs.

Confirm that the lobe is good FIRST. If it's not, then you can go with an electric inline pump and your problem is solved, or when you go to replace these timing gears and chain, replace your cam too.
 

Tricky991

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Well I finally go around to taking the timing gears off. And found the bearing on the crank all messed up. both halfs on top of each other on the same side and rubbing against the timing chain.

Would it be safe to just replace that one only? I am going to pull the pan now, and see what I can see, cause every time I take something else off I am finding more bad news.

I feel like I should just rebuild the engine, but don't have the time or the money. And it being my only vehicle is making it even harder..

I would love to swap in a 350 if I could find a good one. But don't have the stuff to even swap it. I would like to just get it back to working so I can use it again. But also don't want to half ass it and have it break down again in a month or whatever. :bawl:
 

Tricky991

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OK wait, Wait WAIT !!! Before you go pulling this engine apart for a new timing chain and gears etc, you've mentioned the travel on the previous fuel pump as very little. Of course it really doesn't take all that much, but skimming thru the other posts, noone has yet mentioned the fuel pump lobe on the cam. If you're old fuel pump didn't have much travel, is it possible that it was putting excess pressure on the fuel pump cam lobe and wore it down? Now with the new pump expecting a full swing on the arm, it may not be getting it via worn down fuel pump actuator lobe. Do you know anyone with an inline fuel pump you can wire in and take it for a test drive? Just borrow it and see how it runs.

Confirm that the lobe is good FIRST. If it's not, then you can go with an electric inline pump and your problem is solved, or when you go to replace these timing gears and chain, replace your cam too.

Engine is already torn down :/ I didn't think of that. Damn :Insane:

Ugh, this week just hasn't been good for me.
 

HotRodPC

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Well I finally go around to taking the timing gears off. And found the bearing on the crank all messed up. both halfs on top of each other on the same side and rubbing against the timing chain.

Would it be safe to just replace that one only? I am going to pull the pan now, and see what I can see, cause every time I take something else off I am finding more bad news.

I feel like I should just rebuild the engine, but don't have the time or the money. And it being my only vehicle is making it even harder..

I would love to swap in a 350 if I could find a good one. But don't have the stuff to even swap it. I would like to just get it back to working so I can use it again. But also don't want to half ass it and have it break down again in a month or whatever. :bawl:

To be honest, that 305 isn't worth all that work. I'm not so sure I understand what you mean about the bearings? Do you mean they are trying to spit out the front of the main cap? JMO, but I think I'd put it back together with as little as possible to just get it running until you can find a used 350 that runs. Not to tease or brag, the last used 350 I bought for $100. My bro in dire straights like you're in right now, installed that motor in his El Camino. He used a quart of oil about every 3000 miles, and smoked a tad bit at start up in the mornings for a few minutes then was fine, an indicator the valve seals were dried up and shrunk. Past that, it ran smooth as glass, good mpg, no hard starts, plenty of power and he drove that car back and forth from OKC to Ft. Worth for his long distance love affair on weekends. The car ended up getting hit 2x and he collected insurance money for a totalled El Camino 2x, then finally drove it over the scale for scrap with that same motor in it along with the rebuilt Th350 that I built for it. I could have kicked his fukin ass for that, but he's a stupid douche anyway so I wasn't surprised.

Point is, patch that thing up and drive it. Keep your eyes open for a used running high mileage 350 for $200-$300 or so. They're out there, but be ready to jump fast cuz used 350's go FAST.
 

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What part of Texas are you in?

Sent from the dust in front of you!
 

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To be honest, that 305 isn't worth all that work. I'm not so sure I understand what you mean about the bearings? Do you mean they are trying to spit out the front of the main cap? JMO, but I think I'd put it back together with as little as possible to just get it running until you can find a used 350 that runs. Not to tease or brag, the last used 350 I bought for $100. My bro in dire straights like you're in right now, installed that motor in his El Camino. He used a quart of oil about every 3000 miles, and smoked a tad bit at start up in the mornings for a few minutes then was fine, an indicator the valve seals were dried up and shrunk. Past that, it ran smooth as glass, good mpg, no hard starts, plenty of power and he drove that car back and forth from OKC to Ft. Worth for his long distance love affair on weekends. The car ended up getting hit 2x and he collected insurance money for a totalled El Camino 2x, then finally drove it over the scale for scrap with that same motor in it along with the rebuilt Th350 that I built for it. I could have kicked his fukin ass for that, but he's a stupid douche anyway so I wasn't surprised.

Point is, patch that thing up and drive it. Keep your eyes open for a used running high mileage 350 for $200-$300 or so. They're out there, but be ready to jump fast cuz used 350's go FAST.

Very true, a junkyard 350 can be a diamond in the rough. My stepdad's brother had a nice square and he put an rv cam in the motor. There is a little hill going south on 395 near the Ridgecrest turn off that is steeper than you think and he said the truck would barely get up it. My stepdad told him to go get a 350 from a junkyard and scrap the engine he had in the truck. He did and was very pleased with the power it generated. He drove it for years after. Not sure what he did with the square but he now has a Ford f-350.
 

Tricky991

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This what I am talking about with the bearing,

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And yeah that is exactly what I have to do. Just patch and run till I can find another engine. Idk my 305 has pretty good power, but I know a 350 would be much more. Honestly I don't know how this engine has last as long as it has, the previous owner did nothing to the engine never opened it once. And I have been doing small fixes here and there but I am ready for a upgrade lol.
 

HotRodPC

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Well I finally go around to taking the timing gears off. And found the bearing on the crank all messed up. both halfs on top of each other on the same side and rubbing against the timing chain.

Would it be safe to just replace that one only? I am going to pull the pan now, and see what I can see, cause every time I take something else off I am finding more bad news.

I feel like I should just rebuild the engine, but don't have the time or the money. And it being my only vehicle is making it even harder..

I would love to swap in a 350 if I could find a good one. But don't have the stuff to even swap it. I would like to just get it back to working so I can use it again. But also don't want to half ass it and have it break down again in a month or whatever. :bawl:

To be honest, that 305 isn't worth all that work. I'm not so sure I understand what you mean about the bearings? Do you mean they are trying to spit out the front of the main cap? JMO, but I think I'd put it back together with as little as possible to just get it running until you can find a used 350 that runs. Not to tease or brag, the last used 350 I bought for $100. My bro in dire straights like you're in right now, installed that motor in his El Camino. He used a quart of oil about every 3000 miles, and smoked a tad bit at start up in the mornings for a few minutes then was fine, an indicator the valve seals were dried up and shrunk. Past that, it ran smooth as glass, good mpg, no hard starts, plenty of power and he drove that car back and forth from OKC to Ft. Worth for his long distance love affair on weekends. The car ended up getting hit 2x and he collected insurance money for a totalled El Camino 2x, then finally drove it over the scale for scrap with that same motor in it along with the rebuilt Th350 that I built for it. I could have kicked his fukin ass for that, but he's a stupid douche anyway so I wasn't surprised.

Point is, patch that thing up and drive it. Keep your eyes open for a used running 350 for $200-$300 or so. They're out there, but be ready to jump fast cuz used 350's go FAST.
 

HotRodPC

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Sunuva Bitch !!! How the hell do you have any oil pressure? Sure as ****. You have spun a main bearing there buddy. If the mains are gone, you can trust the rods are in rough shape too. Rods usually go quicker than the mains. Damn !!! Never seen that in a running engine before.
 

Tricky991

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I don't honestly know. The thing runs great at idle lol. But I bet if I get the rockers back on it will still be running. I am pretty sure that didn't just happen either.
 

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