Engine wiring/vacuum connections!

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jgasca

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Ok making a bit more progress. I went to the junk yard and saw a similar model.

I saw that this connection

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Goes to this plug

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Anyone know what this plug is?

I couldn't take it off so I just took a few pics and hopefully will be able to order the same part.
Thanks again guys, couldn't have gotten this far without all your input!
 

89Suburban

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In that location I am assuming it is a knock sensor, that thing looks banged up.
 

HotRodPC

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Knock Sensor it is. On the passenger side under the exhaust manifold right?
 

jgasca

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Knock Sensor it is. On the passenger side under the exhaust manifold right?

Yes sir. I'll be ordering that soon.

I ran into another speed bump.
I got all my gauges to work but the choke light & buzzer stays on. I unplugged the bulb from the choke light and that disables all my gauges.

Someone please help, I'm close to just giving up. :(
 

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Yes sir. I'll be ordering that soon.

I ran into another speed bump.
I got all my gauges to work but the choke light & buzzer stays on. I unplugged the bulb from the choke light and that disables all my gauges.

Someone please help, I'm close to just giving up. :(

Man I feel for ya and I would be in the same state of mind, I hate working on dash issues. Just hang in there, these guys will help ya out. This is really uncharted territory for me.
 

jgasca

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Oil pressure senders:

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The one visible (with 2 connectors) is to activate the choke heater (can't see if you have one). The harness connector is a snap-fit. This switch will also illuminate the "choke" light on the cluster when the key is in the ON position. IT DOES NOT DRIVE THE OIL PRESSURE GAUGE.
It will extinguish the choke light when oil pressure is established. Also acts as an idiot light - if the "choke" light comes on while driving - shut down. You may have lost oil pressure.

The purple? (I'm color blind so don't quote me) wire on the RH valve cover is power to the choke heater - it's the one with the thick square connector. Goes to a 4BBL Q-jet with electric choke.

I unplugged this

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and the choke light turned off. Should I leave this unplugged being that I don't have an electric choke?

I'm thinking of just throwing on the stock 4bbl carb and just swap out the intake. This conversion crap is kicking my ass
 

HotRodPC

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That answer to getting lights off isn't to unplug or remove them. Are you sure you're not hooking the choke wire to the switch? Make sure you know what wired are doing what. The Choke wire is usually gray or black if I recall and how a weird looking connector on it. I'll look thru your pics and see if I see it.
 

HotRodPC

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I do believe this wire with the gray connector next to the connector you have squared is the Electric Choke Wire connector. Also, I noticed you manifold has a spot for a manual choke stove to bolt on. So you can use either, the manual choke stove set up, or the electric choke set up.

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chengny

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now all my gauges work except my battery gauge (Which was working before I took it apart. The battery gauge barely moves when the truck is started.

Check the 20 amp fuse in the "gauge/idle" slot, guarantee it's blown. Almost always gets popped when working on the dash.


Choke light/2 connector oil pressure sender dynamic. I kind of went over this briefly in a previous post but here is a more detailed explaination:

Even if you do not plan on using a carb that incorporates an electric choke assist, the 2 prong sender is still useful. Use it as a low oil pressure warning.

As HRPC suggests, the connector indicated below (with the unique shape) is the hot wire to the electric choke pull.


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It is powered via the oil sender when the engine is started and oil pressure is established. Consequently, it's a no-brainer to use the choke indicator on the dash as a low oil pressure "idiot light".

Gauges are great for monitoring system conditions, but unless you're breaking in an new motor (or concerned about a imminent failure), how often do you actually check them?

The sudden illumination of a red indicator will quickly catch your attention.

To use the choke light as a low oil pressure warning, just clip off the dedicated Rochester style choke heater connection. Free up a sufficient length of the wire from the harness and crimp on a suitably sized ring terminal.

If you screw that ring teminal to a good, clean ground, the circuit will run through the oil pressure switch. With the key in the on position, and the engine stopped, the choke light will illuminate. Start the engine, oil pressure will be established and the choke light will go out.

Then, forever after, if the choke light comes on while the engine is running - shut down! You have either lost oil pressure or a wire has broken.

If you are determined to keep the truck "stock", don't worry about this minor modification. The dash choke light was originally set up to work exactly like this, and can be easily reversed if you decide to run a electric assist Q-jet.

BTW - don't get frustrated and give up. You're getting there!

Sorry to sound like an old man, but have some patience and perseverance. Seriously, what's it been - less than a week since you started this process?

In the end you can be confident that things were done right - and you'll know that truck's engine electrical system like the back of your hand.
 
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jgasca

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now all my gauges work except my battery gauge (Which was working before I took it apart. The battery gauge barely moves when the truck is started.

Check the 20 amp fuse in the "gauge/idle" slot, guarantee it's blown. Almost always gets popped when working on the dash.


Choke light/2 connector oil pressure sender dynamic. I kind of went over this briefly in a previous post but here is a more detailed explaination:

Even if you do not plan on using a carb that incorporates an electric choke assist, the 2 prong sender is still useful. Use it as a low oil pressure warning.

As HRPC suggests, the connector indicated below (with the unique shape) is the hot wire to the electric choke pull.


You must be registered for see images attach


It is powered via the oil sender when the engine is started and oil pressure is established. Consequently, it's a no-brainer to use the choke indicator on the dash as a low oil pressure "idiot light".

Gauges are great for monitoring system conditions, but unless you're breaking in an new motor (or concerned about a imminent failure), how often do you actually check them?

The sudden illumination of a red indicator will quickly catch your attention.

To use the choke light as a low oil pressure warning, just clip off the dedicated Rochester style choke heater connection. Free up a sufficient length of the wire from the harness and crimp on a suitably sized ring terminal.

If you screw that ring teminal to a good, clean ground, the circuit will run through the oil pressure switch. With the key in the on position, and the engine stopped, the choke light will illuminate. Start the engine, oil pressure will be established and the choke light will go out.

Then, forever after, if the choke light comes on while the engine is running - shut down! You have either lost oil pressure or a wire has broken.

If you are determined to keep the truck "stock", don't worry about this minor modification. The dash choke light was originally set up to work exactly like this, and can be easily reversed if you decide to run a electric assist Q-jet.

BTW - don't get frustrated and give up. You're getting there!

Sorry to sound like an old man, but have some patience and perseverance. Seriously, what's it been - less than a week since you started this process?

In the end you can be confident that things were done right - and you'll know that truck's engine electrical system like the back of your hand.

Lets just say that I do want to hook up an electric choke, I know what it looks like but I dont know where it goes on this carb. I've seen the electric choke hook up to the carb on the passenger side, which brings me to this question.

What on earth is this?

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and since i'm not really familiar with this carb, where does the electric choke go? and what kind of choke do i need?

If i understood you correctly, I can bypass the electric choke by grounding the wire harness wire that goes to the electric choke? Doesn't sound right to me but i'm usually wrong.
 

chengny

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On most vehicles, an electric assist choke is incorporated onto the carburetor to aid in reducing the emissions of hydrocarbons (HC) and carbon monoxide (CO) during starting and warm-up (choke-on) period. The electric assist choke is designed to give a more rapid choke opening at temperatures of approximately 60-65°F., or greater and a slower choke opening at temperatures of approximately 60-65°F., or below. The electric assist choke system does not change any carburetor service procedures and cannot be adjusted. If the system is out of calibration, the heater control switch and/or choke unit must be replaced.
The main components of the electric assist choke system, Fig. 39, consist of a thermostatic coil, ceramic resistor, cover, bi-metal snap disc and contact spring. The electric actuated ceramic resistor heats the thermostatic coil, gradually relaxing coil tension and allowing the choke valve to open.
At air temperatures below 50°F., electric current applied to the small section of the ceramic resistor, allows slow opening of the choke valve for good engine warm-up. As the small section of the ceramic resistor continues to heat, a bi-metal disc causes the spring loaded contact to close and apply electric current to the large section of the ceramic resistor which increases the heat flow to the thermostatic coil for more rapid opening of the choke valve.
At air temperatures between 50-70°F., electric current applied to the small section, or both the small and large sections of the ceramic resistor, will produce the amount of heat required to control the choke valve position for good engine operation in these temperature ranges.
At air temperatures above 70°F., electric current applied to the small section of the ceramic resistor and through the spring contact to the large section of the ceramic resistor, provides rapid heating of the thermostatic coil for quicker choke valve opening when leaner air-fuel mixtures are required at warmer temperatures.

Diagnosis & Testing
Possible conditions for the electric choke not operating properly are listed as follows (use a voltmeter to check oil pressure and choke coil circuits):


1.Low or no engine oil pressure.
2.Faulty oil pressure switch.
3.No current to oil pressure switch due to:
a.Burned out fuse.
b.Broken wire to oil pressure switch.
4.No current between choke and oil pressure switch due to:
a.Broken lead wire.
b.Wire terminal not properly secured on coil terminal.
c.Faulty ground circuit between choke assembly and housing grounding plate.
5.Faulty choke coil assembly.
If it is determined that the choke coil assembly is inoperative, the following test must be made:


1.Remove choke coil from carburetor. After removal of choke coil, allow coil to cool to room temperature.
2.Connect a ``jumper'' wire between positive battery terminal and choke coil terminal assembly. Connect a second ``jumper'' wire between negative battery terminal and choke coil assembly grounding plate.
3.The tang on the choke coil should rotate 45°in 54-90 seconds.
4.If choke coil does not rotate or exceeds the 54-90 second time limit, replace choke coil.
5.If coil is within specification, check steps 1 thru 5 for possible cause.

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The following is more applicable to your issue:

Many trucks utilize a warning light on the instrument panel in place of the conventional dash indicating gauge to warn the driver when the oil pressure is dangerously low. The warning light is wired in series with the ignition switch and the engine unit--which is an oil pressure switch.
The oil pressure switch contains a diaphragm and a set of contacts. When the ignition switch is turned on, the warning light circuit is energized and the circuit is completed through the closed contacts in the pressure switch. When the engine is started, build-up of oil pressure compresses the diaphragm, opening the contacts, thereby breaking the circuit and putting out the light.

TROUBLESHOOTING
On some models, the oil pressure indicator light also serves as the electric choke defect indicator. If Oil or ENG. indicator light does not light, check to ensure electric choke is not disconnected at carburetor. Also check for defect in electric choke heater, blown gauge fuse or defect in lamp or wiring circuit. If indicator light stays on with engine running possible causes are: oil pressure is low, switch to indicator light wiring has an open circuit, oil pressure switch wire connector has disconnected or on some models, gauge or radio fuse has blown.
The oil pressure warning light should go on when the ignition is turned on. If it does not light, disconnect the wire from the engine unit and ground the wire to the frame or cylinder block. Then if the warning light still does not go on with the ignition switch on, replace the bulb.
If the warning light goes on when the wire is grounded to the frame or cylinder block, the engine unit should be checked for being loose or poorly grounded. If the unit is found to be tight and properly grounded, it should be removed and a new one installed. (The presence of sealing compound on the threads of the engine unit will cause a poor ground.)
If the warning light remains lit when it normally should be out, replace the engine unit before proceeding further to determine the cause for a low pressure indication.
The warning light will sometimes light up or flicker when the engine is idling, even though the oil pressure is adequate. However, the light should go out when the engine speed is increased.



See the highlighted section of this schematic (disregard where it says V6 engine only - it's supposed to read V8 engine only):

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jgasca

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On most vehicles, an electric assist choke is incorporated onto the carburetor to aid in reducing the emissions of hydrocarbons (HC) and carbon monoxide (CO) during starting and warm-up (choke-on) period. The electric assist choke is designed to give a more rapid choke opening at temperatures of approximately 60-65°F., or greater and a slower choke opening at temperatures of approximately 60-65°F., or below. The electric assist choke system does not change any carburetor service procedures and cannot be adjusted. If the system is out of calibration, the heater control switch and/or choke unit must be replaced.
The main components of the electric assist choke system, Fig. 39, consist of a thermostatic coil, ceramic resistor, cover, bi-metal snap disc and contact spring. The electric actuated ceramic resistor heats the thermostatic coil, gradually relaxing coil tension and allowing the choke valve to open.
At air temperatures below 50°F., electric current applied to the small section of the ceramic resistor, allows slow opening of the choke valve for good engine warm-up. As the small section of the ceramic resistor continues to heat, a bi-metal disc causes the spring loaded contact to close and apply electric current to the large section of the ceramic resistor which increases the heat flow to the thermostatic coil for more rapid opening of the choke valve.
At air temperatures between 50-70°F., electric current applied to the small section, or both the small and large sections of the ceramic resistor, will produce the amount of heat required to control the choke valve position for good engine operation in these temperature ranges.
At air temperatures above 70°F., electric current applied to the small section of the ceramic resistor and through the spring contact to the large section of the ceramic resistor, provides rapid heating of the thermostatic coil for quicker choke valve opening when leaner air-fuel mixtures are required at warmer temperatures.

Diagnosis & Testing
Possible conditions for the electric choke not operating properly are listed as follows (use a voltmeter to check oil pressure and choke coil circuits):


1.Low or no engine oil pressure.
2.Faulty oil pressure switch.
3.No current to oil pressure switch due to:
a.Burned out fuse.
b.Broken wire to oil pressure switch.
4.No current between choke and oil pressure switch due to:
a.Broken lead wire.
b.Wire terminal not properly secured on coil terminal.
c.Faulty ground circuit between choke assembly and housing grounding plate.
5.Faulty choke coil assembly.
If it is determined that the choke coil assembly is inoperative, the following test must be made:


1.Remove choke coil from carburetor. After removal of choke coil, allow coil to cool to room temperature.
2.Connect a ``jumper'' wire between positive battery terminal and choke coil terminal assembly. Connect a second ``jumper'' wire between negative battery terminal and choke coil assembly grounding plate.
3.The tang on the choke coil should rotate 45°in 54-90 seconds.
4.If choke coil does not rotate or exceeds the 54-90 second time limit, replace choke coil.
5.If coil is within specification, check steps 1 thru 5 for possible cause.

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The following is more applicable to your issue:

Many trucks utilize a warning light on the instrument panel in place of the conventional dash indicating gauge to warn the driver when the oil pressure is dangerously low. The warning light is wired in series with the ignition switch and the engine unit--which is an oil pressure switch.
The oil pressure switch contains a diaphragm and a set of contacts. When the ignition switch is turned on, the warning light circuit is energized and the circuit is completed through the closed contacts in the pressure switch. When the engine is started, build-up of oil pressure compresses the diaphragm, opening the contacts, thereby breaking the circuit and putting out the light.

TROUBLESHOOTING
On some models, the oil pressure indicator light also serves as the electric choke defect indicator. If Oil or ENG. indicator light does not light, check to ensure electric choke is not disconnected at carburetor. Also check for defect in electric choke heater, blown gauge fuse or defect in lamp or wiring circuit. If indicator light stays on with engine running possible causes are: oil pressure is low, switch to indicator light wiring has an open circuit, oil pressure switch wire connector has disconnected or on some models, gauge or radio fuse has blown.
The oil pressure warning light should go on when the ignition is turned on. If it does not light, disconnect the wire from the engine unit and ground the wire to the frame or cylinder block. Then if the warning light still does not go on with the ignition switch on, replace the bulb.
If the warning light goes on when the wire is grounded to the frame or cylinder block, the engine unit should be checked for being loose or poorly grounded. If the unit is found to be tight and properly grounded, it should be removed and a new one installed. (The presence of sealing compound on the threads of the engine unit will cause a poor ground.)
If the warning light remains lit when it normally should be out, replace the engine unit before proceeding further to determine the cause for a low pressure indication.
The warning light will sometimes light up or flicker when the engine is idling, even though the oil pressure is adequate. However, the light should go out when the engine speed is increased.



See the highlighted section of this schematic (disregard where it says V6 engine only - it's supposed to read V8 engine only):

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I'll check more into this tomorrow but if I recall correctly, the choke light does not turn on when the ignition is turned (truck is off). The choke light only turns on after the truck is fired up, and it remains on.

I'm looking around the web to see if I can find the proper electric choke for this carb, but no luck so far.
I did find this carb which looks really similar
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...ck=Search_02431_1294196_-1&pt=02431&ppt=C0359

Also this may sound so dumb but when you say engine unit, are you talking about the choke itself or the oil pressure switch?
 
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chengny

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I didn't write that but, yes - they are referring to the 2 connector oil pressure switch:

and the engine unit--which is an oil pressure switch.

The choke light will not function as designed unless the lead that normally connects to the carburetor is grounded. When it is plugged into a Q-jet with electric assist there is a path to ground within the choke pull.

See the schematic provided above. That stack of tapering black lines that is attached to the choke heater is the symbol for "grounded connection".

How did you make out with your voltmeter? was the fuse blown?
 
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jgasca

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I didn't write that but, yes - they are referring to the 2 connector oil pressure switch:

and the engine unit--which is an oil pressure switch.

The choke light will not function as designed unless the lead that normally connects to the carburetor is grounded. When it is plugged into a Q-jet with electric assist there is a path to ground within the choke pull.

See the schematic provided above. That stack of tapering black lines that is attached to the choke heater is the symbol for "grounded connection".

How did you make out with your voltmeter? was the fuse blown?

All fuses checked out fine.

Every time I ground the wire that goes to the electric choke, my 20 amp fuse to the choke blows. Maybe I misunderstood you on what wire to ground.
 

89Suburban

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All fuses checked out fine.

Every time I ground the wire that goes to the electric choke, my 20 amp fuse to the choke blows. Maybe I misunderstood you on what wire to ground.

I would not be grounding that choke wire. It is a hot wire and will blow the fuse, as you see. There needs to be resistance, as in the choke coil, so it will not blow the fuse. You can also wire in a resistor to keep that from happening if you choose going directly to a ground.
 
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