Yet Another Starter Diagnostic Thread

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Ricko1966

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You don't have to tow it does the steering wheel and shifter unlock? If so take the electric part of the ignition off the column I think it's 2 5/16ths screws,don't lose them. Anyway slide the ignition switch until the dash lights come on,push your push button,drive it home then slide the switch back. Then we'll start going through how to fix it. If taking the switch down is too much trouble make a jumper + post on alternator,to plus post on distributor hit the button it will run until you pull the jumper off. That boys and girls is how they used to hot wire cars before column locks,not all this sparks under the dash crap like in the movies. A hot wire and a screwdriver to short the starter on a manual roll it and dump the clutch.
 
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TX87R10

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You don't have to tow it foesvthe steering wheel and shifter unlock? If so take the electric part of the ignition off the column I think it's 2 5/16ths screws,don't lose them. Anyway slide the ignition switch until the dash lights come on,push your push button,drive it home then slide the switch back. Then we'll start going through how to fix it. If taking the switch down is too much trouble make a jumper + post on alternator,to plus post on distributor hit the button it will run until you pull the jumper off. That boys and girls is how they used to hot wire cars before column locks,not all this sparks under the dash crap like in the movies. A hot wire and a screwdriver to short the starter on a manual roll it and dump the clutch.

Well I was stuck at the store with no tools and no way home so tow was the only route.

There was zero resistance when moving the key inside the lock so I'm not sure but I was thinking since the lock cylinder is like $25 and the ignition switch is $20 maybe I should just go ahead and grab both since I'm going to have to drive out to summit anyway to pick them up. If I get the parts tonight before they close maybe I can get it fixed or at least diagnosed.
 

Ricko1966

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Well I was stuck at the store with no tools and no way home so tow was the only route.

There was zero resistance when moving the key inside the lock so I'm not sure but I was thinking since the lock cylinder is like $25 and the ignition switch is $20 maybe I should just go ahead and grab both since I'm going to have to drive out to summit anyway to pick them up. If I get the parts tonight before they close maybe I can get it fixed or at least diagnosed.
It's probably the ignition rack,don't buy any parts yet
 

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Take a look at this

Sounds good I appreciate it I went ahead and rented a steering wheel puller and the lock plate remove and picked up a lock cylinder and ignition switch. While I am in there I want to take the time to replace the known wear parts so I'm not dealing with another issue in a couple of months and having a down vehicle. The reliability of my vehicle is paramount :)

I'm going to check like in that thread down to the lock cylinder. If that isn't the problem I will disassemble further.

I'm trying to locate a "Rack and Sector gear kit" but given mine is a tilt column I'm getting fitment warnings from every site. I guess I can wait to figure that out 100% until I know I need one.
 

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Welp @Ricko1966 you were right I got dow. To where I can. See the rack and sector has broken. The gear part looks good but when I turn it I can see the aluminum part has snapped in half. Will get one on order now thanks for your help
 

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I see in the writeup where he is saying to push up the bottom wires to get this much slack but I am not seeing where the slack is going to come from. I went to Napa and I think I found the right part # for the rack and sector so I am going to try to continue on from this step with the upper bowl and all being more snug than in the picture he is showing (his screenshot for reference)

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Alright well i guess my wires were pulled out the same the housing just needed a little wiggling. Got it off and got everything replaced.

Putting it back together and I just installed the upper bowl and realized I have an extra piece!!!!

Anyone able to tell what this was supposed to be guiding?
 

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TX87R10

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Alright well i guess my wires were pulled out the same the housing just needed a little wiggling. Got it off and got everything replaced.

Putting it back together and I just installed the upper bowl and realized I have an extra piece!!!!

Anyone able to tell what this was supposed to be guiding?
@Ricko1966 maybe :) I would be finished with the repair but I'm wondering if this was supposed to be on top of the rack itself or something. When I opened it up the rack was shattered so I didn't get a good look at how it is supposed to look
 

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Alright well searching for what this part is and I see it in a rebuild kit. Haven't a clue what it goes to but clearly going to have to take everything apart again to figure out where it goes :/
 

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It works the dimmer switch.
 

Ricko1966

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This will help you.
 

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This will help you.
Perfect, thanks again! Got it installed correctly. Ignition is working good now and I am going to finish reinstalling everything shortly and hopefully have a working truck again

Last question hopefully - I am trying to comb thru the writeups and videos but there is a clip I can't figure out where it goes.
 

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Ricko1966

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It keeps tension on the rack gears
 

TX87R10

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It keeps tension on the rack gears
LOL! Just my luck. Guess I need to tear it all the way back down again and figure out where it fits.

It's all good though I can tell there were several issues. The lock on the steering wheel is not moving when the key is removed. Need to dig in there and see what else is wrong

Oh and the horn is not functioning :rofl:
 
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