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Replace both...Dex/Merc for fluid; auto parts stores will carry the correct modulator for your trans, just let them know you have a TH350...
i gave you my feedback on the fluid, so did nick.. i guess we just arent people
so Im glad you are heree talking about a modulator. a lot of people on buick forums are r-tarded and dont think their 1991-1998 ish 4t60e doesnt need a new modulator or that its a preventative fix to replace it
Guess I got tired of wading through the muck that people were throwing at each other. Next time I'll just PM Nick.i gave you my feedback on the fluid, so did nick.. i guess we just arent people
i would do the modulator and fluid, and i would use bulk dex/merc off the shelf so as to save money
If the fluid is still pink, I'd leave it alone. 10K miles is nothing, and I very much doubt condesation is a problem over the years. It working find is an indication it doesn't have any water in it, so I'd simply run it if the fluid looks that good. Trans fluid like motor oil, DOES NOT wear out. We only change these items because they become diluted with things like combustion soot, condensation in an engine, brass particles that normally will just lay in the bottom of the pan in most cases and burnt or worn clutch material in a transmisison. So when the fluid starts looking a little brown, not black, to late by then, but when it starts looking brownish, then it's time to change it.
The cheapest fluid you can find for a Th350 and Th400 will work fine. I usually buy Dex/Merc at Walmart by the gallon in the Super Tech brand. You find anything cheaper and it works just fine. It's a bummer they don't have OD cuz they are pretty close to bullet proof transmissions. Granted, the Th400 tolerates more abuse than the Th350, but I still used Th350's for 3 reasons when racing, and when you build your own, it doesn't matter how many you break but I did end up rebuilding mine about every year but it was my street/strip truck and I daily drove the living pisss out of it overheating and the whole nine yards in Los Angeles bumper to bumper to traffic. Cam to big, custom big ass radiator, flex fan, electric fan, add on trans coolers etc, that bish still ran 220-230 sitting in traffic. Th350 has a hair better first gear, lighter in weight, and about 15-20 less parasitic hp loss to the rear wheels so that's what I ran and it was usually just enough to give me the edge over my opponents that were running Th400's, so I didn't mine building it every year when I'd break it. Normally them full throttle 2nd gear shifts at 6500-7000 is what would break them. Either the intermediate race or the input shaft. Till I replaced the right parts then they'd last a bit longer but something always broke requiring an R&R so I just went through the whole thing.
Oh yeah, many times those kits were installed in good working transmissions so I didn't rebuild it, until they broke it. Then since it had the kit there and they paid for it, I went ahead and just used it to save me the labor of the dual feeding hole drilling and capping off. Also, once you do that, there's no going back where you can always take the kit out. Pros and Cons, just like everything.
What do you mean by "no going back"?
Well yeah, I guess you could take the set screw out, and I think I might have gotten confused with another mod that I'm can't recall what it is on another model where you drill a hole in the case. Once it's drilled, it's drilled out, there's no going back. Also no going back without an R&R. I have done stage 2 kits, and after about a month and a broken driveshaft, then a broken rear end, they wanted a stage 1 kit installed. So, I just charged the labor, saved the stage 2 drilled plate for my next stage 2 build, but still charged for the kit even though I had it already, so it saved him a few bucks that way.
I only recommends changing it because it has been used over 10 years and without knowing the type used then, refreshing the fluid won’t hurt because if it was dex/merc conventional then , it’s going to not the best cleaner forvarnish build up. Since he has a clean trans, I reckon keep it clean. But that’s kinky because it was assumed already he will be going in to service sometime Ning else, like a modulator
Man, that's for sure! Seems like GM got it right the first time, unlike the 700R4 that had all kinds of issues up until when, 5-6 years into production?
at least its not like the bloat of the ford c6 becoming the E4OD. Ford skipped the "lets do a lockup converter and try 4 speeds with manual controls" they jumped straight to a 4 speed electronic trans and it took them almost the entire span of the e4od to make it accceptably reliable, and then they changed it to the 4r100 anyway LOLMan, that's for sure! Seems like GM got it right the first time, unlike the 700R4 that had all kinds of issues up until when, 5-6 years into production?
I have never run into anyone with a 700R4 in a pre-82 vehicle who didn't have some kind of issue with it.
I have to admit, Ford did much better than Dodge. At least Ford tried and eventually did made a NEW 4 speed auto. Dodge's idea of a 4 speed OD auto, was they just took the same 904 and 727 which is their versions of the Th350/C4 and Th400/C6, they used the same transmission, put an electronic OD unit on the back, gave it a different model and there you go. BOOM, 4 speed OD. Which, I have to say, there are advantages to that, and I had thought at one time I'd like to have gotten one those Dodge Units and see if I couldn't somehow adapt it to a Th350 or Th400 like a cheap gear vendor. I never did get to play with one since I quit building by then. I did very few Dodge and Ford transmissions, mine were mostly all GM RWD. I think a total of 3 transaxles is about all I've done, 2 GM and a damn, oohhh crud what was that thing in the Plymouth Reliant?
