truck will not start

[no slack]

hi friends I am using a computer so it can be better to understand. Last night I started the truck and drove in reverse out the parking space. Then I pull the head lights on and the truck died. The headlights did not come on and the interior lights did not come on when I open the door to get out. The truck would not start again. I am sure I have a electric problem just not sure what to look over. The TBI is not getting gas so I think what ever the electric problem is is tied in with the head lights inside lights and the TBI or fuel pump wiring. If anyone ever had this happen please leave a few ideas thanks

 

[MrMarty51]

Battery is dead,it sounds like,take a multimeter,set it on DC volts,it`ll probably have a 20v scale,see that the battry is about 12.5 volts.

 

[HotRodPC]

I'd first remove the battery terminals and clean any corrosion and reinstall them good and tight. Then as Marty suggested, get a volt gauge to test the battery. A good 2amp overnight trickle charge if it's not at least 12 volts now. Once you know you have good connections and a good charged battery, I'd then put the voltemeter on the truck with the motor running, headlights on and heater blower motor on high and see if the alternator is putting out. You should see 12.5-13.8. I think even as high as 14.2 volts is acceptable on Squares. Not certain on that, but in this case you''re looking for over 12.5 as a bare minimum to know that the Alterntor is charging the battery.

 

[MrMarty51]

YUP,when idling,it should be over thirteen volts,usually about fourteen,give or take.
Coulkd also be that one of them dreaded fuseable links is burned out too.

 

[no slack]

Ok I think its the fuse link wires I want to replace it what's size wire and can it be replaced with one of the wires that has the fuse connections in between the wire

 

[binderbart]

If your referring to the fusible link wires then no, only replace with another fusible link wire of the same value. Before you go to fire it up after doing this, look for what caused the problem. I'm guessing its your wires down by the starter, very common, most times get up against the exhaust.

 

[philjafo]

You say it died as soon as you turned on the headlights, so have you checked the fuses? Not the fusable link wires, but the actual fuses in the fuse panel.

 

[87sierra]

look by the starter near the exhaust manifold there should be a tube with wires coming out of it they might have melted and caused a short which can kill the whole truck since the starter is the distribution point for power to everything

 

[no slack]

I removed the starter and moved the wires from the exhaust connected the starter back up and she fired right up thsnks for the help I still would like to replace the wires soon where can I find the fusible link wire to replace it autzone don't have it

 

[HotRodPC]

Glad you got it working again.

I'd like to convert my trucks to visual windowed fusible links. One thing foreign car makers have done right. Not only visual, but very easy to check with a continuity light since you can check power on both sides of the fuse with the exposed brass mounting terminal, rather than having to pierce the coating on the wire. This is the type I'm referring to.

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I pick these up all the time at Pull A Part when I go and they happen to jump out at me and catch my eye walking by a car with the hood up. They're supposed to be colored coded for American vehicles but all I've ever seen is Black ones which would mean they are 45amp if this is true. BLACK 45A, RED 35A, GREEN 30A, BROWN 20A. Obviously that don't work for the type I've pictured in red being a 50amp, but that's what I'd use is a 50amp. In most cases, fusible links blow for a direct ground contact. Even an 80amp fusible link will blow in that situation, so going 5amp over isn't no big issue provided it's in the right gauge size wire which should be 10gu.