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How the hell! AI? Well based on that I might have to just go ahead and do it, despite it stripped out the wing and bed cover I like it.Like this?
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I'm still finagling with this one yet to get it right but here is the rough up:How the hell! AI? Well based on that I might have to just go ahead and do it, despite it stripped out the wing and bed cover I like it.
Final one:I've been considering doing the black stripe/panel on mine to fit in with the hood but without the trim. I'm no photo shopper so my attempts to edit it to see if I'd like how, it looks have been utter trash.
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Not a good idea. Fuses and fusible links have a different time frame they blow on,a fusible link will take an overload for a short time. If you put in a fuse sufficient for the overload it will be too high to protect the circuit.Could you put something like this for instance in place of a fusible link? Then carry a handful of spares.
This is strictly a personal taste thing....gads sakes that is U.G.L.Y.This may be a Chevy but thought I'd insert the link anyway:
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1985 Chevrolet C10 Pickup w/ Lowenhart Wheels – Beige (Just Trucks) Diecast 1:24 Scale Model - Jada 35859 - Karson Diecast Co.
1985 Chevrolet C10 Pickup w/ Lowenhart Wheels – Beige (Just Trucks) Diecast 1:24 Scale Model - Jada 35859 FREE SHIPPING...www.karsondiecast.com
So, it's the speed at which they operate? I've always just cut them out and replaced them was just curious if there was a work around that would still protect the wiring and was easier to deal with.Not a good idea. Fuses and fusible links have a different time frame they blow on a fusible link will take an overload for a short time. If you put in a fuse sufficient for the overload it will be too high to protect the circuit.
Always found the 70s race inspired liveries to be the weirdest color choices. Almost like they should be on a baja vehicle blasting thru the desert rather than a 2x on the street.This is strictly a personal taste thing....gads sakes that is U.G.L.Y.
I almost took a picture (but again ugly) getting ready to pull out of Summit and 2 drag racing squares come rolling in. One was a mid 70's and the other an early 80's. There wasn't 2" between body and ground.
I didn't even get out to go oogle over them.
Not a good idea. Fuses and fusible links have a different time frame they blow on a fusible link will take an overload for a short time. If you put in a fuse sufficient for the overload it will be too high to protect the circuit.
Problem is you have to decide what value and how much delay. GM already did the math on it. And yes a fuse is easier to change provided there is already a fuse holder. When you have to install the fuse holder then install the fuse then that changes the equation as to which is less effort,especially when you consider 99 percent of fusible links will last longer than we do,and even if they blow they will likely never blow again.There is one more factor and that is heat and possible fire,the fusible link is housed in a fireproof jacket so when it melts it is insulated so as not to start a fire.on anything around it. I'm sure some people can do the proper math and modifications to use a fuse in place of a fusible link,to me it's just not worth the time,effort,or gamble.You are aware of time delayed fuses? Much easier to change a fuse over a fusible link.
Diffusion pill technology is a method used primarily in electrical fuses to create a predictable, time-delayed circuit protection, particularly for high-current applications like automotive batteries and alternators.A "diffusion pill" is a composite element, or core, that has a specific chemical composition and diffusion rate. When a circuit overload occurs, the pill's material gradually diffuses, which heats and melts the main fuse element, allowing for a controlled, time-delayed interruption of current, rather than an instantaneous break.
Honestly I had never seen this before. Provided a person knew the value of the MIDI fuse needed.This would be comparable effort to install,but if you ever needed to change it again the second change would be easy enough. But seriously a fusible link is pretty easy to change.The location of the midi fuse and holder isn't going to be in a convenient location. Irrelevant in both instances though,if the MAJOR short that killed the FL in the first place is repaired properly it should never happen again. Let's take O.Ps truck as an example roughly 50 years and the problem occurred after an engine R&R and incorrectly routed wires leading to a dead short on a major circuit. The FL did its job the OP fixed his wiring problem and it should never fail again.GM did the math on running power through the switches. We all know that doing relays is the proper thing, which GM didn’t do on our trucks.
So I don’t follow all GM engineering feats.
Installing a midi fuse would be no more effort than installing a fusible link would be.
Whichever method a person chooses for protection, it’s all for naught if the connections aren’t clean and tight. Loose and dirty wires cause resistance, resistance is heat. I don’t want to see anyone’s truck go up in flames.