Suspension issues - which new upgrage to buy

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MelbGMC

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And another 2 photos of the front end
 

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MelbGMC

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It may be hard to photograph but look at the back side of the spindle where the axle is pressed into the knucle casting. If it's down by the lower ball joint then it's a stock spindle. If it's closer to the upper it's a lowering spindle.

Coilovers are not a bad option but their ride quality is very dependent on how you setup the shock an what spring rate you choose.

It won't fit your budget probably but the best thing to help the ride an handling will be to get rid of the leaves on the back for a 4 link with air or a coilover. Mine is on air an my ride height is equivalent to a 5/7 drop an it rides great many people are surprised by how well it rides that low.
Does this pic show what you mean bluex?
I might have to get back under the truck and get another pic
 

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Originalthor

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If you could get a picture of the back side of the spindle thats the best way to tell. Kinda like this one. Which is not a drop spindles.
 

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68post

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I know you said no air bags, but have you considered them as "helpers"? You could look into removing a leaf or two in the existing spring (or replace with the lightest spring pack you can find) and add air bags in the rear to get the ride height and load capacity you want.
I'd also look into a proper set of front springs and/or drop spindles to maintain the stance but have a better setup. The rest of the above info is good too.
I know when I installed air bags in my front coils and air shocks on the rear axle on my G20 van it literally did ride like a caddy. And it was a "light 3/4 ton" (5 lug !!)
 

bluex

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Does this pic show what you mean bluex?
I might have to get back under the truck and get another pic
No you need to get a picture like the one below. If the axle is low like that then it's a stock spindle.
If you could get a picture of the back side of the spindle thats the best way to tell. Kinda like this one. Which is not a drop spindles.
 

C10SLEY

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This is my formula for a decent riding lowered square, it won't ride like a caddy but everyone I've done the customer is always pleased with the out come an I believe they ride better than stock setup like this.

For the front start with a drop spindle. They don't alter suspension or shock travel an should always be the first choice. If you want more than the 2.5" or 3" the spindle gives then get a drop spring. Avoid the 1" ones though as they usually will actually raise the truck over a worn out stock spring. Go with a 2" or 3" spring for your desired drop amount. Top that off with a stock length, replacement shock without an extender. I use KYB GR2s. The spring is the only thing that affects shock travel an the KYB Front shocks have enough travel to lay the crossmember on the ground. There's no need for a drop shock in the front.

On the rear I use a flip kit, the notch is optional if you aren't hauling or towing but the factory bump stop an bracket must be removed an replaced with a low profile urethane bumpstop. Shock extenders an stock replacement KYB GR2s here as well. You've got to have the extenders to use a stock length shock on the rear. They also correct the working angle of the shock so it can perform better.

If you follow this, an align the front end to have as close to +5* caster, -0.5* camber an 1/16" toe in you should have a good riding an handling pickup. Add a front sway bar too if it doesn't have one.

Good luck. Based on your description an the picture you probably have el cheapo drop shocks or bad/worn ones an springs that are either cut to much or heated in the front. I've seen it alot unfortunately. The front doesn't look low enough to have a drop spindle on it from the picture.
Do you have a rear shock extender preference? Looking at Western Chassis. Inherited an '83 with minimal info. Lowered, sway bar, 15" Cragars. Handles well (from my knowledge/experience of how it should), but drivers rear shock bottoms out before hitting bump stop, but oddly, passenger side doesn't.. it goes until hitting bump stop. Just put in Monroe shocks front and rear.
 

bluex

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Do you have a rear shock extender preference? Looking at Western Chassis. Inherited an '83 with minimal info. Lowered, sway bar, 15" Cragars. Handles well (from my knowledge/experience of how it should), but drivers rear shock bottoms out before hitting bump stop, but oddly, passenger side doesn't.. it goes until hitting bump stop. Just put in Monroe shocks front and rear.
Not really they are all about the same, just pickup the one you can find in stock somewhere for the best price lol.

We generally have the western chassis ones on hand though.
 

xm20k

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Trash the cut springs and get a set of actual drop springs. Another thing you can try is a set of shocks valved for a drop, Ride Tech, Megahey's etc. some even make shorter rears valved for a drop that don't need extenders mounted to the axle. Tires with taller side walls will also help probably more than drop shocks.

I run a 305/50/20 in the back (drag radial) and a 245/40/20 in the front and the fronts are defiantly getting changed for more sidewall.
 

Ricko1966

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The axle isn't hitting the frame, I'm not putting any weight in the back of the truck, it's just a sunday driver.
I'm looking into a new set of springs for the front, I'll have to pull the front end apart to try and work out what spindles are in it.
Hey drop spindles for the front will dix a lt of your problem and the lightest springs you can find. Rear get shock extenders if you dont have them. Never mind just looked at a couple more posts@bluex covered it all
 
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