Subwoofers

[HUFFINCOSMOLINE]

2021 CompRT Loaded Enclosures

KICKER produces high-performance car audio, vehicle specific solutions, marine audio, home and personal audio, and power sports products since 1973.

www.kicker.com

Kicker loaded enclosure with passive radiator fits well behind the seat. Paired with kicker amp. Doesn’t take up too much room in a single cab.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Grit dog]

You must be registered for see images attach

Ummm looks like that system BUMPS!!

 

[everettfirstlove]

I think I might be able to to squeeze a Rocker fosgate p300-8p under the seat.

 

[Sad Sack]

I think I might be able to to squeeze a Rocker fosgate p300-8p under the seat.

Or use the bed as a sub box and make a pass through sub system into the cab, I've seen it done a couple times to much success, but cutting big round holes in the cab and box makes me cringe even thinking of it.

 

[CalSgt]

You must be registered for see images attach

Dude... Is that a dimmer switch grommet?

That's a rad way to trim out the wiring hole

 

[dec322]

I think I might be able to to squeeze a Rocker fosgate p300-8p under the seat.

This is the model subwoofer I have but behind the seat....it never crossed my mind to try under the seat.

 

[HUFFINCOSMOLINE]

Dude... Is that a dimmer switch grommet?

That's a rad way to trim out the wiring hole

Good eye, that’s exactly what it is. It came with the new carpet I installed. I had a polished bezel to use for my dimmer switch, so I made use of the plastic grommet for the power and ground wires.

 

[Sad Sack]

This makes me smile when I'm cruising and others complain about the headaches it causes, but hey if it's too loud you're too old:

Amazon.com: Rockville RWS10CA 1000W 10" Amplified Car Subwoofer Enclosure, 4-Ohm, Slim Design, Built-In Amplifier, Remote Bass Control, for Cars and Trucks : Electronics

Buy Rockville RWS10CA 1000W 10" Amplified Car Subwoofer Enclosure, 4-Ohm, Slim Design, Built-In Amplifier, Remote Bass Control, for Cars and Trucks: Component Subwoofers - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

[everettfirstlove]

This is the model subwoofer I have but behind the seat....it never crossed my mind to try under the seat.

It should fit if you wiggle it in or remove the seat, mount it, then put the seat back in

 

[Catbox]

On the budget side of things, I found this truck box at an estate sale.
It is way old school and low power.

You must be registered for see images attach

150 watts RMS per pair, so 75w per box.
Got it.

You must be registered for see images attach

Two little ports and a tweeter.

You must be registered for see images attach

I bought the pair of them for $25 and one of them had no sub woofer in it.

Max put the loaded one into his '49 truck behind the seat.
The ports were making tons of "chuffing" noise and so they were taped shut and it all sounds 1000% better.

He hooked the subwoofer to this amp that I purchased off of Ebay a few years ago for $52 shipped.
Back in the day Eclipse was a top notch brand.
This one is a 4/3/2 channel amp and he is powering a pair of 6x9's and the subwoofer in 3 channel mode.
So the 6x9's are getting 50 watts each and the sub is seeing 140 watts, according to the internets.
With the one channel bridged going to the sub, it is getting way more power than it is rated for but its taking it just fine.

You must be registered for see images attach

Love those fuse ratings.
Now this is an old school AB class amp, so its efficiency is no where near as good as the new power arrangements.
But it still puts the power out just fine.
13.8v X 50amps = 690watts
690w X 0.60effiency = 414watts of power available

You must be registered for see images attach

He wired it using junkyard wiring we pulled out of newer cars.
Gotta love the 1 gauge wire they use with trunk mounted battery locations of the newer stuff.
Makes great power wire.

Is it ideal?
No, but it is working just fine as a permanently temporary install until he wants to upgrade it all.

 

[Catbox]

Want to try building stuff on your own to see if you even want to add a sub.
These Pyle subs are about the least expensive sub you can source on the interwebs.
They have plastic baskets and low RMS power rating, but that is fine for an experiment I can dial the power in on the amp with the gain.
I wanted to see what I could do in my squarebody with four of these little 6 inch subs behind the seat.

You must be registered for see images attach

At the time I bought them, they were $16 each.
Now they are $25 each.

You must be registered for see images attach

But for $64 at the time, I was willing to see how the small subs worked for me.
Sadly, none of my projects have moved forward with this as the amps I was going to use are in other cars and I have no time.

If I like the way they do the bass, I can build the system up with more expensive subs of the same size.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[CalSgt]

On the budget side of things, I found this truck box at an estate sale.
It is way old school and low power.

You must be registered for see images attach

150 watts RMS per pair, so 75w per box.
Got it.

You must be registered for see images attach

Two little ports and a tweeter.

You must be registered for see images attach

I bought the pair of them for $25 and one of them had no sub woofer in it.

Max put the loaded one into his '49 truck behind the seat.
The ports were making tons of "chuffing" noise and so they were taped shut and it all sounds 1000% better.

He hooked the subwoofer to this amp that I purchased off of Ebay a few years ago for $52 shipped.
Back in the day Eclipse was a top notch brand.
This one is a 4/3/2 channel amp and he is powering a pair of 6x9's and the subwoofer in 3 channel mode.
So the 6x9's are getting 50 watts each and the sub is seeing 140 watts, according to the internets.
With the one channel bridged going to the sub, it is getting way more power than it is rated for but its taking it just fine.

You must be registered for see images attach

Love those fuse ratings.
Now this is an old school AB class amp, so its efficiency is no where near as good as the new power arrangements.
But it still puts the power out just fine.
13.8v X 50amps = 690watts
690w X 0.60effiency = 414watts of power available

You must be registered for see images attach

He wired it using junkyard wiring we pulled out of newer cars.
Gotta love the 1 gauge wire they use with trunk mounted battery locations of the newer stuff.
Makes great power wire.

Is it ideal?
No, but it is working just fine as a permanently temporary install until he wants to upgrade it all.

A lot of picky “audiophiles” prefer the A/B class amplifiers for sound quality on the full range channels

 

[Catbox]

They have that "fuller more robust" sound to them....

 

[Sad Sack]

That's why I went with this powered unit, and the thump is more than plenty for a regular cab. Fit great behind the seat and price was very acceptable:

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[83Stepper]

I'm along with @Catbox on the old school vibe. Got a set of old school MTX Road Thunder II in a truck wedge box. Got them both for $20 total from a guy who used to DJ back in the 90's. Got one that's going in the truck with an older Kenwood KAC-628s 300w x1 bridged amp. RMS is only like 150ish, which is more than enough for the sub. Plus rocking an old school Pioneer 6 disc changer. Got a TON of CD's still that get a lot of use, especially the "mixtapes" lol.

I did a metric sh*t ton of audio system installs back in the day. I was always the guy that everybody called when they had a system they wanted installed. Couldn't beat my wiring and installs back in the day in the area. I probably could have made a career out of it, but didn't want to be crawling around in cars for the next 20+ years. If you need some advice on wiring lmk, really easy when putting it all together.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach