Shifter help. Exhaust pipe in the way

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wootensan

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Truck originally had a straight 6 with 3 speed but was pulled long before I got it. I put in a 5.3 with a 4L60 and tried the automatic shifter for an 82 but the exhaust pipe gets in the way. I have considered a floor shift but would prefer a column shift (don't have column yet) but not sure what it takes for the connection. Any help is appreciated, especially pictures and descriptions of parts used.
 

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CalSgt

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It doesn't look like you need too much to make it work, can you get the "z" bar in?

Mine's not an LS but, I just bought a "U" bend and cut it up to make 2 pieces that allowed me to aim the tubing where I needed it.

I used a 1/16" gas welding rod that I bent to guess-tamate what angle I would need (you can use a wire coat hanger)
Laid it along the center of the straight portion of the "U" bend
estimated where the bend in my rod intersected the curve of the "U" bend at a 90 degree angle and cut

With only two small curved sections you can move exhaust all sorts of ways by just rotating how the curve intersects the next piece.

I also modified the "Z" bar because of how far out the shift ears stick out on these newer 4L60E's, I didn't end up needing the factory electronics for the shift indicator and could have swapped out the shift ears on the transmission much easier than modifying the Z bar.

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bucket

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Have a picture with the shifter linkage that shows the clearance issue? It looks to me like it should fit and clear.
 

idahovette

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C'mon @CalSgt you're killin' me here........lol.......missed a PERFECT opportunity
 

TotalyHucked

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This is the only pic I have of when I put in my 5.3/4L60 combo. This is the Lokar universal shift rod kit they sell. Don't bother, it's hot garbage. Too flimsy, it would deflect every time and gear changes were very vague. I swapped back to my factory '85 T350 shift rod setup and used the factory 4L60 piece you show in your picture. After a little finagling to get the adjustment right, it worked perfectly and cleared my longtube headers with miles to spare.

Unless your piping is bent inward toward the trans real weird, you shouldn't have any issue clearing the stock linkage.

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idahovette

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OK......but ya owe me one
 

CalSgt

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I want to copy your saw setup. How do you have it mounted?

Put a saw kerf in a 1 1/8" piece of plywood with my skill saw

Built a support on the bottom that matched the profile of the Sawzall, glued and screwed from the top side. (it looks like a big shark fin on the bottom)

Removed the foot from the Sawzall & drilled a few holes in the corners of the foot & reinstall on Sawzall

Inserted the Sawzall blade from bottom side and screwed the foot to the bottom of the table

Drilled a hole (or 2) in the shark fin described above, used large hose clamps to secure the Sawzall body to the shark fin.

Used a square to check the blade coming through the board, made a few adjustments until it was true.

Set the speed of the Sawzall with the dial wheel and zip tied the trigger in the on position.

Unplugged the cord to turn the Sawzall off at the end of each cut.

Note: My Sawzall has an adjustment to change from reciprocal to an orbital blade motion, I set it to the straight reciprocal mode.

Screwed the board to a work bench and viola! You now have a redneck bandsaw.

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And a cold one for the @idahovette
 

TotalyHucked

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Oh nowwww ya tell me now that I'm 3/4 of the way done with my exhaust :slap: :rofl:
 

wootensan

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I will get back on this next week and will post pictures of the linkage. I am trying to not have to modify the exhaust if possible but that may be the best solution.

I was able to look at it last night and if I flip the Z type bar over it doesn't hit the pipe but puts the straight piece for the shifter arm to be on the wrong side. I am going to try and fab a new Z bar and put the connection of the right side and see if I can get that to work. I am trying to keep the exhaust simple since I haven't welded any of it yet in case I don't like it when I get to finally drive it.
 
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