Remanufactured Engine ID Nightmare!

[MadOgre]

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That sounds like an excellent plan too. That is exactly what I would do also. I have never bought a crate engine. I probably never will either. If I need to replace my engine, I have two spare blocks and I will just rebuild them if I need them. That is just the way I roll.

lol me too

 

[firebane]

Alright glad to hear some of the history behind these blocks. He has an "RV" cam in it and stock heads as far as I know. I don't think he's ever had it on a dyno. So the block will accept L31 heads? The vortecs? If so there's a set local on Craigslist that have just been rebuilt for like $400 that might be a good investment.

RV cam means absolutely NOTHING anymore. There is so many different grinds and specs used that it could be a turd cam or a decent cam.

Also with vortec heads you need to do much more like a different intake as well.

 

[MikeB]

As far as the 3970010 myth and high nickel, I don't buy that ******** myself. Especially for as long as that block was produced.

I'd bet tens of millions of 3970010 blocks were produced. In fact, the vast majority of late 60s to late 70s blocks I've worked on are 010. Some have 2-bolt main caps, some have 4-bolt.

Now, if 010 and 020 are cast into the block next to the front cam journal, then that should be a 4-bolt main cap block which may have been used in a high performance engine, like the 68-69 302, the original 70-1/2 LT1 350, and perhaps some HD truck engines.

There seems to be agreement on engine forums that these "010 020" blocks did have higher tin and nickel content than standard 3970010 blocks. There was also a 400 block that had the 010 020 numbers next to the cam journal. That tells me the last three digits in the 3970010 block casting number have nothing to do with tin/nickel content.

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[firebane]

Yeah from what I've read the 010 means .010 of tin? or was it nickle. And the 020 is the .020 amount of the other.

 

[MadOgre]

I'd bet tens of millions of 3970010 blocks were produced. In fact, the vast majority of late 60s to late 70s blocks I've worked on are 010. Some have 2-bolt main caps, some have 4-bolt.

Now, if 010 and 020 are cast into the block next to the front cam journal, then that should be a 4-bolt main cap block which may have been used in a high performance engine, like the 68-69 302, the original 70-1/2 LT1 350, and perhaps some HD truck engines.

There seems to be agreement on engine forums that these "010 020" blocks did have higher tin and nickel content than standard 3970010 blocks. There was also a 400 block that had the 010 020 numbers next to the cam journal. That tells me the last three digits in the 3970010 block casting number have nothing to do with tin/nickel content.

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Yes you are absolutely right! I forgot lol. But yes mine has the 010/020 in the timing gear area and thats why I kept mine. Also probably why I forgot too lol. And yes mine has 4 bolt mains and is a HD truck engine.

 

[OneShot]

I'd bet tens of millions of 3970010 blocks were produced. In fact, the vast majority of late 60s to late 70s blocks I've worked on are 010. Some have 2-bolt main caps, some have 4-bolt.

Now, if 010 and 020 are cast into the block next to the front cam journal, then that should be a 4-bolt main cap block which may have been used in a high performance engine, like the 68-69 302, the original 70-1/2 LT1 350, and perhaps some HD truck engines.

There seems to be agreement on engine forums that these "010 020" blocks did have higher tin and nickel content than standard 3970010 blocks. There was also a 400 block that had the 010 020 numbers next to the cam journal. That tells me the last three digits in the 3970010 block casting number have nothing to do with tin/nickel content.

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This one is a 4 bolt main. What was the original nickel and tin content in the blocks anyway? The ones that were NOT said to have high concentrations of these. I'm an engineering major at Purdue and I have many friends who are chemical engineers. I'm sure I could bring them a sample of the metal and they could tell me what it's composed of. I suppose that would be kinda the hard way of doing it but it would be definitive proof of high or standard nickel / tin content.

 

[OneShot]

RV cam means absolutely NOTHING anymore. There is so many different grinds and specs used that it could be a turd cam or a decent cam.

Also with vortec heads you need to do much more like a different intake as well.

And can you expand on this please? What else would you need to do, and why is there no such thing as an RV cam anymore?

 

[HotRodPC]

And in the SBC 400 blocks. Everyone seems to want the 4 bolt main blocks. From what I've been told and seems the reason, the 2 bolt blocks are actually less prone to cracking. So in my book, go for the 2 bolt block, and then you can go with 4 bolt splayed mains and have it machined. A 4 bolt block had already been machined with the bolt holes going the wrong direction, and that meat is taken away, so I would not splay main a factory 4 bolt block. Splayed mains are certainly stronger than the straight in.

Bottom line, the older blocks are better. Try to get blocks in the pre 72 or older era and it should be a good one no matter what it came out of. As far as stock or mild motors, all the nickel just means the bore will slower. In most motors, everything else is going to wear out sooner anyway, so I've never been one to make a huge issue of nickel unless I was going to be dealing with a high pressure NOS or Turbo motor. Otherwise, it's just the big issue that some make of it IMO.

 

[firebane]

And can you expand on this please? What else would you need to do, and why is there no such thing as an RV cam anymore?

RV cams is just a generic term like kleenex is for tissue. They cam in many different grinds depending on applications.

 

[OneShot]

RV cams is just a generic term like kleenex is for tissue. They cam in many different grinds depending on applications.

Got it. Thanks.

 

[MikeB]

Y But yes mine has the 010/020 in the timing gear area and thats why I kept mine. Also probably why I forgot too lol. And yes mine has 4 bolt mains and is a HD truck engine.

Bingo! Nice block you have there.

 

[MikeB]

Bottom line, the older blocks are better.

I think the 86-up roller cam blocks are very nice castings. I've seen 20+ year old blocks clean up at .005" overbore, and the core shift is minimal compared to earlier two-piece main seal blocks. Also, OE cranks from the 86-up engines sometimes need nothing more than polishing.

That said, there's nothing wrong with most 010 blocks, if you can find one at std bore. I built a 327 out of one several years ago using a 307 crank.