Tony778
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Questions about 383
- Thread starter Tony778
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Tony778
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firebane
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Look at the front side of the balancer if there is a notch it's a 400 crank. No notch = 305/350
PrairieDrifter
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From the picture of the balancer that you have it doesn't look like a 400 balancer but I can't completely tell. If it is internally balanced you would still be able to see the clearancing, its supposed to look like it has just been ground down, I can't quite tell though. A couple more pictures, get a full front view of the balancer and find a cylinder with the piston up inside of the cylinder and take another picture of the bottom of the cylinder just under the oil pan surface
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The one 383 I helped a friend of mine build had the oil pan rail clearanced also. I don't see that on your engine. The oil pan was also made to accept the stroke.
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It sucks buying something and later finding out its not what you thought. Seems to happen a lot with the 383 scenario, because there is no way to confirm without taking it apart. But look on the bright side. Worst case scenario, you have a good 4 bolt 350 2 piece rms. better than paying for a 350 and later finding out its a 305. Run it till she blows and big block it.
Sent from an old rotary telephone.
Sent from an old rotary telephone.
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Could'nt agree more , BIG BLOCK IT !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Yep. ^ Dude said oil pan side rail clearancing which may be accurate. The balancer differences would NOT be sufficient evidence FOR ME.
I'm pretty sure that one could simply look into the bottom end minus oil pan and see some ground areas. The number on the crank vs. the number on the block is the ONLY way to be 100% sure. Let's have the casting number near the distributor.
Wild cam +steep gears = poor man's ******** 383. Pretty easy to fake with a set of 4.56s and massive overlap, ESPECIALLY to those with little experience. Nobody's hatin dude, we're all on the same team here. Let us know when you decide to go put your foot in that punk's ass... I'll take a crack at him.
If you want a better idea of how fast you are ACTUALLY moving look out the side windows, not the windshield. Just because one has loud Flows does NOT mean they're hauling ass but it sure does sound like it!
Chrome adds no horsepower contrary to popular belief, much like a sticker kit.
It's a sharp lookin truck - don't let it get ya down. Look at the areas of red circle, I don't see those areas photographed?
I'm pretty sure that one could simply look into the bottom end minus oil pan and see some ground areas. The number on the crank vs. the number on the block is the ONLY way to be 100% sure. Let's have the casting number near the distributor.
Wild cam +steep gears = poor man's ******** 383. Pretty easy to fake with a set of 4.56s and massive overlap, ESPECIALLY to those with little experience. Nobody's hatin dude, we're all on the same team here. Let us know when you decide to go put your foot in that punk's ass... I'll take a crack at him.
If you want a better idea of how fast you are ACTUALLY moving look out the side windows, not the windshield. Just because one has loud Flows does NOT mean they're hauling ass but it sure does sound like it!
Chrome adds no horsepower contrary to popular belief, much like a sticker kit.
It's a sharp lookin truck - don't let it get ya down. Look at the areas of red circle, I don't see those areas photographed?
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Tony778
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Once again, thanks to everyone for the help and input. I'm now 100% sure it's not a 383. Pulled the harmonic balancer to replace the front timing seal and crank seal....balancer part # is 3896966. 67-68 Camaro 350. Oh well...I'll just drive it till it blows, then rebuild it bigger and better.
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