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- Dec 6, 2019
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- In the woods in Western Washington
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The battery was installed on June '18 when I took possession of the truck and started the restoration 52.7k original miles. I finally got it to my garage on Nov. '20. It now has 54.5k on the clock. Whatever is coming out of those front two cells is definitely corrosive as it made a mess of the battery tray. I topped up all of the cells with distilled water about 8 months ago and it's only the front #1 & #3 cells that are low. It is a top (not original side) post battery and has the bottom hold down. For $100 bucks or so, I'm going to just replace the damn thing and quit worrying about it. What do y'all think about the sealed batteries? And thanks for the additional help, Taylor.
If we are talking lead acid seal topped batteries, I prefer ones with removable caps. There no internal difference only that one you check the water on the other you throw away if it gets low. If you are considering a gel cell that's a different story and we can talk about those to if ya'll want.
I think it’s been 30 years since I have seen a battery with removable covers. Are they still made like that?
Wasn’t the Delco Freedom battery one of the first “maintenance free” batteries marketed?
Most Interstate batteries and A/C delco professional and gold batteries have removable caps. Not sure about house brand batteries.
I think it’s possible those cells are more dense or possibly just have more sulfation and thus less mre resistance and heat and that could have even the situation to boil water. The reason I asked about case damage was boiling electrolyte or evaporated should loose only the water. The acid shouldn’t be much different. But. Sulfation breaks apart sulfuric acid to be created as well and you would be left with more water which would have a tendency to evaporate or boil more etc etc. double pronged sword. If you find a batte try charger that can repair a battery per se try that after testing to see if your battery looses it again.
The specific gravity question was about basically if you are going to need to add water or acid which you may need both. Napa sells a box with a bladder inside that has acid. You can the out the tube into the cell and allow acid out. Use PPE if you ever do this. I would dump your battery cells honestly at that point just to have the proper solution in each.
if it doesn’t loose it again or at least you don’t think it’s leaking from damage, I would do the charger repair which will charge it at high voltage for periods of time and bring it down and ramp up and it will break up that **** on those cells. If it works you’ll see more CCA too. But you may want to save dumping any electrolyte if you were for that step. But you don’t have to do any of it
andnon the batteries. Yeah. Non maintenance and maintenance ones will both work. A maintainers free is just less to worry about. Not many people actually maintain a maintenance battery either.
I would say it lasts as long as you let it by your use as the owner.
Wisconsin winter really put batteries to The test up here.
something you may consider for your battery going forward no matter what it is would be a battery blanket or isolater. It would help lower the temp of the battery and water loss would be less. And sulfation not as bad.
Also heat shielding or relocation are other ways.
Making sure battery posts are clear is also a huge one. Ever feel how hot those puppies can get on a good connection?
Not to be the antagonist but.... The charger trick does work, and you use to be able to buy a product that would break up sulfation as well. However I've found that it's only temporary. A few months or a year later and there is trouble again. I'm not saying don't do it, but for me the reliability of a good battery out weighs delaying the replacement a short time.