Picking up my 14bff & D44.

[Kapdin]

So if everything pans out ill have my 3/4 ton 14bff 10.5" 4.10 rear and matching dana 44 front next week. But before i install them i wanna spend some time cleaning them up. So the question is, rust removal then what coating? self etching primer and paint or spray on undercoating? Also is it worth to replace bearing right from the getgo?

 

[crazy4offroad]

I used a wire wheel, Purple Power Rust Converter, then just black primer and Rustoleum black gloss paint.

 

[thaifighter]

Ditto ... I use wire wheel but forget the self etching primer and put some "chassis saver" gloss black on... the stuff is incredible its super tough like an epoxy it brushes on no primer needed And IMO its up there with powder coating its a little pricey but worth every penny it adheres to light surface rust, you know the stuff is the **** when its US millitary approved!!

definateley stay away from the undercoating its just make a mess that one day youl probably be scraping off LOL

As far as bearings go on the ff its easy to pull the axles and pull the hubs if you dont have disc conversion you will want to see what your brake system is looking like anyway

if it doesnt have disks youre going to find out its a pain if you have to do a wheel cylinder or to pull those beast drums off you might want to pull the seal of the hub and that inner bearing will give you a good indication of how things are... plus you will be able to see if any goons have marred your spindles but if that bearing is suspect It could lean down an expensive path the outer hub bearing can only be removed by knocking out the race I wouldnt go there unless your planning on replacing it

pulling the diff covers will also give you a good indication of your bearings on the carriers wthout actually removing them plus it will give you a chance to paint the covers another color other than black
good luck!

 

[HotRodPC]

Who makes that Chassis Saver product Brian? Where do you buy it? Auto Parts, Home Improvement store or what?

It's not that a big deal to pull the rear drums. Not as easy as a 10bolt of course, but it's not to bad. I might be able to post some pics that might help with that.

 

[Kapdin]

Yea about thos drums... it has dawned on me that i just replaced the whole rear brake system on my 12bolt....... fugg

Ill take the wire wheel after them and look for something like that but as hrpc said can i just get it in town or order it?

 

[thaifighter]

http://magnetpaints.com/ I bought mine at a local parts store if they dont have it on the shelf they can probably bring it in looking online this morning people are weighing the merits between chasis saver and por 15 Ive never used por 15 but man am I impressed with the chassis saver it goes pretty far because its so thin and thin coats are recomended 2 min

now that being said because the rearend almost becomes polished after the wire wheel and of course the cast iron body it might be a good idea to hand scuff after the wire wheel with some 60 grit to give whatever is applied a better chance

 

[Kapdin]

After a 10hr drive im back home with my two 14bff and dana44! Im pretty stoked, these things are fuggin HUGE! Also i got all 3 for $220 I'll take picks tomorow cus i have a few questions and also ill look for thos axle codes. The two 14B have diff brake drums. And the Dana is going to need some TLC.

 

[HotRodPC]

That's a deal. Kinda makes it worth the 10 hour drive and fuel costs. I always try to consider my fuel costs and travel time into a deal to be sure it's worth it. Making a good score isn't worth it sometimes in the long run, but you didn't get hurt on that deal.

 

[Kapdin]

Yea the fuel (took a duramax) would have added alot to the bill but 6 of the 10 hrs was already planned for something else so rly 4hr extra cost in fuel so not bad just long day. Picked up some new Cooper Discoverer AT3 for the yota. went down from 33X10.5-15's to 31X10.5-15's on that. And i got the axle codes TFR & KJU so one is 1975 C/K 20 4.10 non locking and the other (wich on our GMSB chart says c10 with 2.56?) is 1973 K20 4.10. Can you explain the diff in brake drums?

 

[HotRodPC]

Yea the fuel (took a duramax) would have added alot to the bill but 6 of the 10 hrs was already planned for something else so rly 4hr extra cost in fuel so not bad just long day. Picked up some new Cooper Discoverer AT3 for the yota. went down from 33X10.5-15's to 31X10.5-15's on that. And i got the axle codes TFR & KJU so one is 1975 C/K 20 4.10 non locking and the other (wich on our GMSB chart says c10 with 2.56?) is 1973 K20 4.10. Can you explain the diff in brake drums?

Some of the codes Duplicate based on year models. I wish to hell you were closer I'd buy one of those from you if the price was right or trade some parts. I'm still looking for a 4.10 axle to go with this 10 front with the 4.10 ARB Air Locker. Go figure, I have a 3.73 FF and 4.56 FF but not a damn 4.10.

The difference may just be year model differences. I know some of them the hub has to come off before you can get the drum off, and some the drum slides over the hub. Just depends on the system. I believe that is actually 3 different set ups on FF axles, maybe even 4 getting into the next generations up into the 90's. Think about the length of the run the 14b FF has made. It's a long one.

 

[HotRodPC]

Yea the fuel (took a duramax) would have added alot to the bill but 6 of the 10 hrs was already planned for something else so rly 4hr extra cost in fuel so not bad just long day. Picked up some new Cooper Discoverer AT3 for the yota. went down from 33X10.5-15's to 31X10.5-15's on that. And i got the axle codes TFR & KJU so one is 1975 C/K 20 4.10 non locking and the other (wich on our GMSB chart says c10 with 2.56?) is 1973 K20 4.10. Can you explain the diff in brake drums?

Oh yeah, and those being NON locking is a plus IMO. You can easily add a Detroit Locker, or even Lock Right locker to those axles, where as if you have the junky G80 Gov Lok, you'd have to change the carrier too to put in a much better locker unit. This way you can use the same carriers. All in all, you scored nicely on that purchase. Those deals are out there for all of us, just a matter of timing and finding them. I can't believe you said he had them listed for a long time.

 

[Kapdin]

Yea they have been around the block, which must mean they work. Im just wondering if im going to tell the diff from my 3.08's? or is it a dramatic change? like no more highway driving? The guy i got these from was great nice guy just getting out of the offroad and was building a street rod that at the moment had over 500hp and was working on putting a blower on it lol. But i guess i was to late cus he also had an np205 but got sold the day he posted it. So im still on the lookout for one of thos and wondering wat to do with my 1/2ton axles? or just start a HRPC parts pile?

 

[thaifighter]

Just a foot note on painting those bad boys
another good option if you dont wnat to go with the chasis saver is

roll bar and chasis paint by VHT its in a rattle can which makes painting all those nooks and crannies a little nicer and quicker than a brush the paint is an epoxy so its very durable

down side is it will probably require Im thinkin min 4 cans as you want to apply several coats

for the diff cover
I suggest using vht engine enamel or some similar brand but because most engine enamels reguire heat to cure it youl have to bake the covers in the oven
but after that you will have a cool lookin bullet proof paint job!

 

[Kapdin]

I'll check into that, figure napa have some of that? Also this is screaming my name http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=746609

 

[crazy4offroad]

I wouldn't dedicate to that disk brake kit till you know for sure if your local laws will allow you to operate the truck without a park brake, because that kit will not provide it. Here my truck wont pass inspection but I got around that (for now) by getting antique vehicle tags.