New member. Looking for helpful resources

[Ricko1966]

Thats a good idea. I figured because these calipers are so old they are due for a replacement. New caliper was only $40. Are the chevy oem calipers good enough to drill and retap or is it a bandaid? I know it depends on condition of calipers. Mine dont look like they have ever been replaced.

If the bleeder is the only problem,I just replace the bleeder,reman calipers,this is sometimes their fix on damaged cores. So you may get a reman with a lifetime warranty with a different bleeder,so I'd say nor a bandaid

 

[killerpiller]

If the bleeder is the only problem,I just replace the bleeder,reman calipers,this is sometimes there fix on damaged cores. So you may get a reman with a lifetime warranty with a different bleeder,so I'd say nor a bandaid

i understand where you are coming from. I am battle a lug right now.. once i get my impact and the lug off, i will look at the bleeder and i may replace it like you recommend. Probably report back next week

 

[Ricko1966]

i understand where you are coming from. I am battle a lug right now.. once i get my impact and the lug off, i will look at the bleeder and i may replace it like you recommend. Probably report back next week

Wire brush the end of the stud and nut,Get a long cheater bar then try to tighten the lug,just a hair,then squirt it with penetrant try to loosen it a little put penetrant up by the wheel surface of the nut,then tightened it again.Repeat. This back and forth will help get lubrication through the whole length of the stud. Also If you can get the stud and nut,hot,hot with a torch touch the end of the stud with a crayon the wax may wick in. This works like a miracle but I've never tried it with propane,so not sure if you can get the heat you need. I am assuming you don't have oxyacetelene or a mig welder.

 

[killerpiller]

Wire brush the end of the stud and nut,Get a long cheater bar then try to tighten the lug,just a hair,then squirt it with penetrant try to loosen it a little put penetrant up by the wheel surface of the nut,then tightened it again.Repeat. This back and forth will help get lubrication through the whole length of the stud. Also If you can get the stud and nut,hot,hot with a torch touch the end of the stud with a crayon the wax may wick in. This works like a miracle but I've never tried it with propane,so not sure if you can get the heat you need. I am assuming you don't have oxyacetelene or a mig welder.

Great tips! What does the wax do?

I have been using pb blaster and tried a breaker bar. The breaker bar put a wierd angle on the nut so it was rounding out the nut. I bought a Milwaukee torque impact. I am hoping the power help break it.

if the torque impact doesn't work then i was going to get an electric bolt buster.

Until i get my shop, I will only have a flux welder. Which is limiting and no body repair work until i get a cleaner welder.

 

[Ricko1966]

Great tips! What does the wax do?

I have been using pb blaster and tried a breaker bar. The breaker bar put a wierd angle on the nut so it was rounding out the nut. I bought a Milwaukee torque impact. I am hoping the power help break it.

if the torque impact doesn't work then i was going to get an electric bolt buster.

Until i get my shop, I will only have a flux welder. Which is limiting and no body repair work until i get a cleaner welder.

You have a welder. Put a junk socket on the lug.weld the socket to the lug,good. Rub a crayon around the base of the log and through the center of the socket if you can. The wax from the crayon lubricated the threads like you wouldn't believe,it wicks in like solder when sweating pipe,the heat breaks loose the rust,the socket can't slip,and you can smack the end of it with a hammer to jar the rust loose. Done this a bunch even have a funny story but no time. This is all an attempt to save the stud. Otherwise I'd tighten it a 1/4 turn,break the stud and replace it.

 

[killerpiller]

You have a welder. Put a junk socket on the lug.weld the socket to the lug,good. Rub a crayon around the base of the log and through the center of the socket if you can. The wax from the crayon lubricated the threads like you wouldn't believe,it wicks in like solder when sweating pipe,the heat breaks loose the rust,the socket can't slip,and you can smack the end of it with a hammer to jar the rust loose. Done this a bunch even have a funny story but no time. This is all an attempt to save the stud. Otherwise I'd tighten it a 1/4 turn,break the stud and replace it.

Ahh yeah thats not possible because it is not a real lug.. it is a ****** nut that isnt very thick. So the nut is recessed into the wheel lug pocket and the socket doesnt get much of bite. With a deep socket and a breaker bar, the angle was odd becuase the breaker would rub the tire. I bought some 1/2 extensions so i will try the breaker bar again with a shallow socket and an extension so the angle is a 90* rather than obtuse.


if there was more real estate on the nut, welding it is a great idea.


Lug NUTZ

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[Ricko1966]

Use your short socket,your long extension and breaker bar say you have the breaker bar at 9 0clock position,put a pipe wrench on the extension at 3 o'clock.

 

[killerpiller]

https://www.gmsquarebody.com/threads/killer-piller%E2%80%99s-1980-k10-scottsdale-duck-tape-build.47662/#post-1015704

New Build Thread ^^

I figured it is probably best to put the discussion in the right forum section. Feel free to visit, comment, talk trash, give advice or tell me i am dumb! Cheers everyone

 

[CountKrunk]

I was going to suggest you make a build thread.

 

[Mr Clean]