new cab has ac but i dont want it

[jason81k20]

So the cab I'm buying is an 82...mines an 81 but it has ac and mine don't can I just take that ac box off the firewall and put my heater box in place? Has anyone done it I can't find much info

 

[kleedus]

no it is not a direct swap over the holes in the firewall are different

if you have a welder you can make it work but I would not

keep the ac and make it work

I done the opposite on my crew cab converted from non ac to ac

 

[jason81k20]

after a little more digging I found pictures of both firewalls, so I would have to make a cover for the big rectangular hole cut 2 holes in it for the hoses to the heater core and then cut out a piece beside the round hole and then my heater box could go in place, im not an ac type of guy so that's why I don't want it with the new cab

 

[kleedus]

I tore all the ac out of my cars and trucks when I was in my 20's I figured all it did was rob power and look like hell

now that I am in my mid 30's I am spending a bunch of time and money putting it back on the rides I tore it off of and retrofitting it in the ones that did not have it

but to each their own

it would be easier to cut your firewall out of the non ac truck and fit it like I did on my crew cab

I have a couple pics and a short description on how I done it in my crew build thread click the link at the bottom of my posts page 8

 

[chengny]

If it's just the idea of having an A/C system installed that bothers you (rather than an attempt to gain space within the eng compartment). You don't really need to do anything - just unplug the compressor.

But to clean up a bit you can easily:

1. remove the compressor/associated bracketing/drive belt and revert to the non-ac type bracket for the power steering pump

2. Disco the compressor hoses - suction (at the filter dryer) and discharge (at the condenser).

3. Remove the liquid line that runs from the bottom of the condenser along the inner fender and over to the filter/dryer.

4. Release and remove the filter/dryer from the evaporator outlet.

5. Pull the radiator and shroud and that will allow you to remove the condenser.

At that point the only difference you can notice will be the oversized fan housing (it contains the evap coil).

If that doesn't bother you - you're all done. There is no need to alter the fire wall when doing an A/C delete. Nor is there any reason to change the controls over to heat only. The heater will still work just as good - same with the defrost. They may work even better - I believe that the fan used in the A/C setup is of greater capacity than the heat only one.

If you are deleting to gain space - and want the evaporator housing gone - there is still no reason to alter the firewall. Several places sell A/C delete fan hosings that bridge from the fan suction throat over to the existing opening in the firewall. They also have a low profile that opens up a lot of space in that back corner - they only stick out about 3 inches from the firewall:

You must be registered for see images attach

1973-90 GM TRUCK A/C DELETE COVER
This AC delete cover for allows you to remove your existing air conditioning evaporator unit while maintaining the heater functions. Delete cover is manufactured from molded fiberglass with a black gelcoat and is designed to mount to the firewall where the stock AC evaporator core and case are normally located. This cover will allow more space for large valve covers and headers as well as big block engines while keeping the heater unit intact.
Fits: 1973-87 GMC and Chevy Truck 1973-90 Blazer /Jimmy 1973-90 Suburban


http://acdelete.com/pages/73-90_Truck.htm

 

[jason81k20]

The main reason I'm want to get rid of it is because my truck is a non ac truck, I'm buying a new cab which the only thing it has is the big ac box nothing else like condenser, hoses etc. That box just seems so bulky

 

[jason81k20]

I seeen eBay has just metal ac delete covers but there's no hole for the blower motor

 

[chengny]

WTF - this is what he suggests:

NOTE: The car this came off of did not have A/C or Heat so if you want a blower motor for the heat you will need to drill a hole for the blower motor.


With what - a 5 inch drill bit?

How good are you with a jig/sabre saw?

 

[jason81k20]

WTF - this is what he suggests:

NOTE: The car this came off of did not have A/C or Heat so if you want a blower motor for the heat you will need to drill a hole for the blower mot


With what - a 5 inch drill bit?

How good are you with a jig/sabre saw?

I lost ya bud who suggests that?

 

[chengny]

Sorry, I thought you were talking about this one:

You must be registered for see images attach

http://www.ebay.com/itm/82-92-Camar...ries&hash=item43c04377ce&vxp=mtr#ht_341wt_932

But that is for a Camaro...NVM

 

[jason81k20]

Ohhh no the one I found is just a piece of metal cut to shape but no hole either would have to use a jigsaw

 

[jason81k20]

I got another question fellas...so the new cab has ac blah blah..since I'm getting rid of the box off the firewall would I have to change the one under the dash or could I just leave it be and run just heat?

 

[IHC656]

You will want to change most everything under the dash, the main thing is the heater core is different.
I helped a guy with this earlier this year who had nothing on his firewall when bought his truck and wanted to put a non ac stuff on. (Did not have heat) But saw he would have to change everything under dash, so he just put the AC stuff back on for the heater.

 

[jason81k20]

Damn I was hoping I wouldn't have to it just looks like a pain to get that box out and I gotta do it twice, take the one out of my old cab and put in my new cab once I take that one out. I'd keep the ac but I have no plan on running it and that box is to bulky looking under the hood

 

[89Suburban]

I didn't know they made those ac delete covers. That's pretty neat. I have a heat only box, harness and controls on standby to install into mine when the time comes. It's much more compact and simpler design. No vacuum lines all over the place. Also if that does happen, I am keeping the signal wire in mind that is tied into the compressor harness to signal the computer to bump the idle up. I would hook up to a switch to it as an idle bump switch.