Nashville New guy!

[Doppleganger]

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[animal]

 

[WFO]

Welcome from the Texas Panhandle.

 

[Snoots]

No power lock is on the tailgate.
BTW, the tailgate needs a good ground to operate. The front and rear switches swap the +12 to the motor.
You've got a real tough one there reaching for the ps latch with the window down.
You might be able to get the window to operate by unplugging the taigate wiring (should be right behind the license plate part of the bumper) and running a heavy wire from the + at the battery to the tailgate side of the coonnector. It's a 3-pin connector. 1 is a hot feed (center one I think) and the 2 outside pins are for up and down.

 

[FireGuy8]

Welcome from La. Love the big 3/4 ton burbs

 

[bucket]

Howdy from Ohio #2!

If you try to operate the rear window motor, can you hear it trying to go down at all? Most commonly if the window will go down but not up, it's a bad safety switch on the passenger side latch. Most people just bypass it.

But if the window has been down for that long, there's likely other issues from that as well. Maybe why the passenger latch is stuck. Penetrating oil and some minor shock loads will be your friend.

 

[USAROVER]

Howdy from Ohio #2!

If you try to operate the rear window motor, can you hear it trying to go down at all? Most commonly if the window will go down but not up, it's a bad safety switch on the passenger side latch. Most people just bypass it.

But if the window has been down for that long, there's likely other issues from that as well. Maybe why the passenger latch is stuck. Penetrating oil and some minor shock loads will be your friend.

It doesn't make a peep! I have power coming tot he harness behind/below the license plate. There must be a break past that.

 

[USAROVER]

No power lock is on the tailgate.
BTW, the tailgate needs a good ground to operate. The front and rear switches swap the +12 to the motor.
You've got a real tough one there reaching for the ps latch with the window down.
You might be able to get the window to operate by unplugging the taigate wiring (should be right behind the license plate part of the bumper) and running a heavy wire from the + at the battery to the tailgate side of the coonnector. It's a 3-pin connector. 1 is a hot feed (center one I think) and the 2 outside pins are for up and down.

I have put my Power Probe into action on those. I tested the wires, I do have 12v from the fuse box. I put hot to the white colored wire, and ground to the blue, nothing. I replaced the red to factory config and retried hot and ground, nothing. Clearly I have a break, probably as it passes through the tailgate.

It is really a tough reach with the window down to get to anything!

 

[bucket]

I have put my Power Probe into action on those. I tested the wires, I do have 12v from the fuse box. I put hot to the white colored wire, and ground to the blue, nothing. I replaced the red to factory config and retried hot and ground, nothing. Clearly I have a break, probably as it passes through the tailgate.

It is really a tough reach with the window down to get to anything!

The motor is self-grounding. There's the 12v wire to the key switch, an up wire and a down wire. Since the key switch has the 12v supply, it has it's own up wire and down wire. The motor will not run if one terminal has power, but the other is seeing ground.

It is possible to remove the window with it down. It's much easier though with some well-placed holes with a uni-bit, for window bolt access.

 

[Snoots]

First trick is getting to the latch.

 

[ron1445]

Welcome from just west of you, Dickson County.

 

[Steelbuddha]

Welcome from NC!

The LMC Truck folks should send you a fruit basket .

 

[labratm]

Welcome! I am in South Nashville

 

[Long Rider]

Welcome from the dry side of Oregon. It's where the red necks live.

 

[86 C10 Shortbed]

Welcome from Central Ohio