Master cylinder gave up.

[hey mister]

So a few months ago I replaced the 11" booster. It was leaking badly.
I did not replace the master, but I did replace the fluid (dot3). About a month later, the pedal started to feel funny...as in, it's starting to go bad.
Ok...fine...I'll now replace the master...sheesh...
Called the local oreily's. They wanted $40 some for a rebuild kit (which I was ok with) but they also wanted $20 some to ship it to the store and I would still have to go pick it up...ouch.
Then I went to summit and they had zero rebuild kits available. Which tells me, the kid at oreilys didn't have the right kit on his screen.
Then I went to rockauto and found a brand new factory spec master for $47 and $12 for 3 day ship. Bingo.
Three days later, it's in my hot hands. Painted it "cast iron" high temp and had it bolted in that evening, bled and all buttoned up. Perfect match and fit. No muss, no fuss.
That has actually been one of the few parts which has failed and needed replaced.

Also replaced the original rag joint as I was waiting on the master cylinder.

Now it, runs good, steers great and stops even better.

Oh, yea...and still no leaks.

 

[ali_c20]

When you replace one part the part next or related to it dies in a short period of time. Seems to be an old car law.

 

[hey mister]

When you replace one part the part next or related to it dies in a short period of time. Seems to be an old car law.

Ok..
I know what you mean....
Sometimes, it sure seems that way.

True story.
A buddy of mine went in to get an oil change ans made the mistake of walking the showroom floor while waiting. Ended up buying a new Bronco.
That was an expensive oil change.
Better off to do it yourself.
Lol

 

[Grit dog]

So a few months ago I replaced the 11" booster. It was leaking badly.
I did not replace the master, but I did replace the fluid (dot3). About a month later, the pedal started to feel funny...as in, it's starting to go bad.
Ok...fine...I'll now replace the master...sheesh...
Called the local oreily's. They wanted $40 some for a rebuild kit (which I was ok with) but they also wanted $20 some to ship it to the store and I would still have to go pick it up...ouch.
Then I went to summit and they had zero rebuild kits available. Which tells me, the kid at oreilys didn't have the right kit on his screen.
Then I went to rockauto and found a brand new factory spec master for $47 and $12 for 3 day ship. Bingo.
Three days later, it's in my hot hands. Painted it "cast iron" high temp and had it bolted in that evening, bled and all buttoned up. Perfect match and fit. No muss, no fuss.
That has actually been one of the few parts which has failed and needed replaced.

Also replaced the original rag joint as I was waiting on the master cylinder.

Now it, runs good, steers great and stops even better.

Oh, yea...and still no leaks.

Nice! Rebuilding hydraulic parts like MC s and wheel cylinders is really not the way to go IMO unless really cash strapped or you have a difficult to source part or a good reason to rebuild it.
For something as reasonably priced and widely available as this, it’s a no brainer to replace it. 1. It’s not really more expensive if at all. 2. It’s quicker. 3. You’re not your own warranty department.

 

[hey mister]

Nice! Rebuilding hydraulic parts like MC s and wheel cylinders is really not the way to go IMO unless really cash strapped or you have a difficult to source part or a good reason to rebuild it.
For something as reasonably priced and widely available as this, it’s a no brainer to replace it. 1. It’s not really more expensive if at all. 2. It’s quicker. 3. You’re not your own warranty department.

I thought it was strange to not have to send in the old m/c.
As common as c10's are I figured refirb-ers would need cores.