K10 6 lug to K20 8 lug???

[HotRodPC]

So when I put my 14b Full Float in the K10, I'm going to want to convert the front 10 bolt to 8 lug hub also. I know they interchange from ball joints, but I need to get off as cheap as I can. I just looked up front wheel bearings for both K10 and K20 and they call for the same bearing according to AutoZone. So does this mean the the 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton have the same spindles too? The calipers appear to be the same also. This should mean the brake backing plate should be the same between the 2. If they have the same spindle shouldn't all I need is the 8 lug hub and the 8 lug rotor???

 

[BowTieJockey]

You are very close. Knuckle, spindle, bearings, and calipers are all the same. So all you would need is backing plate, rotor, and hub are all the same. You should also be able to use the same locking hubs you have unless your transfering from internale lockout s to external lockouts and vise versa.

 

[HotRodPC]

You are very close. Knuckle, spindle, bearings, and calipers are all the same. So all you would need is backing plate, rotor, and hub are all the same. You should also be able to use the same locking hubs you have unless your transfering from internale lockout s to external lockouts and vise versa.

OK, so lemme correct you here. I think did a me and got ahead of yourself here. You mention backing plate, rotor and hub ARE ALL THE SAME. I thnk meant to have a period after, rotor and hub?

So Knuckle, spindle, bearings and caliper can be saved from what I have now if I understand right. Here's what I'm getting at, so to me converted to 8 lug if someone had backing plates and the 8 lug 10 bolt front hubs that could be shipped to me, then I could buy new slip over the hub rotors new locally, I'd be able to have the set up I need right? Is the backing plate really different too? I can't understand why the backing plate would need to be different if the spindle is the same and the caliper is the same, but I'll take your word for it.

 

[BowTieJockey]

OK, so lemme correct you here. I think did a me and got ahead of yourself here. You mention backing plate, rotor and hub ARE ALL THE SAME. I thnk meant to have a period after, rotor and hub?

So Knuckle, spindle, bearings and caliper can be saved from what I have now if I understand right. Here's what I'm getting at, so to me converted to 8 lug if someone had backing plates and the 8 lug 10 bolt front hubs that could be shipped to me, then I could buy new slip over the hub rotors new locally, I'd be able to have the set up I need right? Is the backing plate really different too? I can't understand why the backing plate would need to be different if the spindle is the same and the caliper is the same, but I'll take your word for it.

The only reason the backing plate is different because the rotor is bigger in diameter.

 

[HotRodPC]

The only reason the backing plate is different because the rotor is bigger in diameter.

Ahh OK, didn't even think about that. So hub and backing plate, then buy new rotors and I'd be set and good to go. Uhh or actually good to stop.

 

[bucket]

Yeah, unless you end up with the earlier stuff in the d44 years. The spindle and bearings are different besides the different hubs. So if you find an earlier 8-lug truck at the yard, you need everything from the spindles-out.

 

[HotRodPC]

Yeah, unless you end up with the earlier stuff in the d44 years. The spindle and bearings are different besides the different hubs. So if you find an earlier 8-lug truck at the yard, you need everything from the spindles-out.

I knew that much. I'm hoping being that 10 bolt stuff is more common, or it at least appears that way, I can find some 10 bolt stuff, won't need as much so it'll be cheaper and maybe even have the option of having it shipped. The heavy parts should fit in a large flat rate box and maybe find someone wanting to trade some parts.

I've already sold the rear end out of the K10 out at my dads, so the ass end is on blocks. I'm hoping to be putting the 4.10 full floater under it, get it on the trailer and bring it back to the house. But, it'll still have the 6 lug front axle until I get some 8 lug stuff for the ARB Air Locker 4.10 10 bolt.

 

[hirschdalechevy]

Just to throw something out here hot rod , two times , (out of many times I have done the 8lug swap and only 70's truck's) I have had the brake petal become soft after doing the swap , with the brake light on the dash come on. No air in the system. (wierd)!!!! Anyway I thought that maybe the master did not have enough juice capacity for the 8 lug rear , but both times the shoe's were 1/4 left and the drums were turned , (god knows how many times) , (old 14 bolt's) and they were adjusted as well. So I bought new shoe's and drum's , (pricey) and the problem was solved. So what I am trying to say is if you have that problem , (which you may not) , go for new shoe's and drums or maybe change out to a master that is for a 3/4 ton.

Just thought I would let you know what has happend to me before , but like I said only twice out of many swap's.

 

[HotRodPC]

Just to throw something out here hot rod , two times , (out of many times I have done the 8lug swap and only 70's truck's) I have had the brake petal become soft after doing the swap , with the brake light on the dash come on. No air in the system. (wierd)!!!! Anyway I thought that maybe the master did not have enough juice capacity for the 8 lug rear , but both times the shoe's were 1/4 left and the drums were turned , (god knows how many times) , (old 14 bolt's) and they were adjusted as well. So I bought new shoe's and drum's , (pricey) and the problem was solved. So what I am trying to say is if you have that problem , (which you may not) , go for new shoe's and drums or maybe change out to a master that is for a 3/4 ton.

Just thought I would let you know what has happend to me before , but like I said only twice out of many swap's.

Yes, I'm hoping to, but I always hope to do alot of things and then never have the cash. I'd like to replace all the bakes, ball joints, u-joints, spring bushings and all when it goes in, and same on the rear. Being that truck was a 6.2 it has a hydro boost unit. I'm hoping to rebuild that too and keep it. Otherwise I'll have to cheap out and swap in one of the 3/4 ton Vac boosters. Thanks for the heads up.

 

[bucket]

I had squishy pedal when I swapped mine, I used the stock 1/2 ton master with the large 1 ton rear brakes. I got the rear from my brother in law's C30 and he was always doing brake stands with the truck. Turns out it wore the shoes down and unevenly since they never got adjusted. I had to constantly adjust them up nice and snug so they would work with my master cylinder.

It got better as time went on since the shoes were then fitting better with the drums. Now I only have to adjust them once or twice a year and I like the pedal feel I get with the 1/2 ton master cylinder.

 

[HotRodPC]

If I can figure something out for a Park brake, remember I have the Rear Disk brake conversion kit on the CUCV axle that I robbed the Detroit Locker out of. I hope to get to use that on the K10 too.

 

[smurph20]

I still wanna do a hydro lock like I had in the rollback I was driving for my park brake. Kinda like a line lock for a drag car but not electric.