Jeep JK Conversion - Farm beater / Grocery getter

[Fat 454]

Sooo.. in the onging search to remain mobile at an affordable price in a repairable vehicle ( ! ) that can also keep up with daily traffic for "other" members of the family ( ie. those that are not obsessed by all the old junk we have around the place ) - I have been looking at the JK Jeep platform. Specifically as they have a 4 door ( could be reasonably converted to a crew-cab with a ( small ) tray, is 4wd, can use or has Dana 4wd and 5x5 wheels etc. Also ( over here ) they are factory imported RHD, and are now getting CHEAP ( auto 4 door without registration can be picked up for around $5K Australian ) with NO RUST ( all boulevard cruisers - little off road use ) - nice interior etc. LOADS of aftermarket support et. etc.

Plan is to build a mild on/off road machine that my wife can use around the property haulin' stuff ( small ) AND still pick up the kids / get groceries without too much discomfort ( not going to Moab, just feeding the cows in a muddy paddock ). Of course we can't be leavin it stock, so looking at :
* LS conversion with CARB
* Manual ( ! ) - SM465 4 speed manual ( NP4500 boxes are stupid money - more than I would pay for a whole truck if I could find one, whilst the grungy old 3psd +granny 465's are literally thrown away - I have 5 or so just lying around ) - would start with a manual model to simplify things.
* Possibly a T56 if I can get a transfer case conversion ( haven't looked into this yet ) - also available and affordable ( less so at around $3K ), but more modern and lighter ..
*Np 205 transfer case ( or 208 ally if I can work the T56 ?? ) ...
* Axles / brakes to suit etc. etc.

As much of the on-board electrics as possible will be junked ( no heated or power anything thank you very much ). Idea is to have a dependable, serviceable, driveable rig ( and use as many of my exisiting square / chev / GM running gear a possible, as I don't want a hoard of other parts / service items to keep track of ). Novak conversions seem to have most of the hardware required, then I can use stuff from ORD etc. ..

THEREFORE - the question all this is leading up to - have any of you already done this type of conversion? and if so what did you learn and how did it work out ?? Knowledge up front is always super helpful, before plunging in and hauling home more junk ( we are already heading down the OBS route, with 2 x in the fleet .. ) Thanks in advance for any insight - now let the laughter begin ....

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[CountKrunk]

Does it not come with a working drivetrain?

Sounds like a chit ton of work for not much gain?

The jeep platform has a lot of after market support as well doesnt it?

 

[Fat 454]

Does it not come with a working drivetrain?

Sounds like a chit ton of work for not much gain?

The jeep platform has a lot of after market support as well doesnt it?

Yeah - probably.
Haven't got one yet - trying to get head of the "viability" curve that I see is going to hit a few years - ie. used cars no longer serviceable due to all the electronics on board. Anything after about 2000 has ECM, BCM, CANBUS, Digital this that and the other.
Already have issues servicing my kids 2000 - 2005 vehicles ( aftermarket scanners, throwing codes, sensors, wiring etc ) - only getting more complicated and less "fixable" - subscription monthly payment to access your trunk on the E-Mach anyone ??.
Been trying to find a more modern platform that can be retro-fitted with analogue parts, so it can be kept running. Not interested in buying a new car every 3 - 5 years and being locked into dealer servicing. Our 2019 Kia is the last "new" car I'll ever own. All hire cars now have an argument with you every time you drive down the road, and dont need my personal details collected by some faceless corporation somehwere. We are already giving Cuba a run for there money over here, so .. ( old guy rant fades off into the distance.... )

 

[CountKrunk]

In that case, full speed ahead haha.

Not sure if it's been done before. So put it on YouTube

 

[Jrgunn5150]

JK Part outs are very common nowadays, can get a frame and tub for under 2k.

Super Duty axles require a truss welded on, then bolt in.

The only one I did, I just ignored the dash, threw it away, cut a piece of steel, bent it, threw universal gauges in it.

 

[Fat 454]

PGI buying fram and trico from First brands under chapter 7? - Anyone remember Sears Craftsman - look out for the Holley conglomerate ( and Edelbrock ) to go.
I guess my grandkids will look at my trucks much like a steam engine ?...

 

[Fat 454]

However in other news, in the ongoing trainwreck that is our "economy", more "stuff" is coming up for sale on the boards as folks try to keep paying their rent.

Just need a to build a bigger barn ! ..

 

[goldpack]

just to throw a link as to what years a JK unlimited is
(as I have to look up jeep platform codes)

Jeep Wrangler (JK) - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

what engine came in that particular one, are going to put something else in ?

 

[Fat 454]

I believe the JK was 07 through 18 and offered either the Pentastar gas motor ( 3.6l V6 ) or a diesel. They also came in either auto or manual. The gas-auto is by far the most common over here.
My issue is not that the Jeep running gear is bad, but rather that I want a vehicle that 1/. is repairable, and 2/. uses similar parts to my other GM vehicles so that I don't need to either learn a whole new architecture or keep more ( different ) parts.
That's why I am thinking either an LS or diesel ( GM or 4BT ) swap ( with carb / mechanical injector ), and manual trans ( either SM465 or Tremec 4050 ). One if the main problems ( for me ) is the JK uses a BCM as well as ECM, and runs nearly every system "By wire", other then the steering ( not long term sustainable in my view ), yet the body / frame is very attractive ( both aesthetically and practically ).
Yes it seems degenerative to make a "modern" vehicle and give it the sophistication of a tractor, however if it can be kept on the road and dependable for the next 10 - 20 yrs, at an affordable price, it is solving this particular problem. ( for context, one of the most desireable vehcles over here is a Toyota 70 Series Landcruiser - it has a very similar spec ( body on frame, solid axle, diesel manual ), however new they are over A$150,000, and used ( typically 400,000km and over ... around A$30 - 40K. )
I figure I can build my own OEM RHD diesel manual for less than A$20K . ( Plus the roof and doors come off for the mountains or the beach

 

[goldpack]

this is a toyota series 70

Toyota Land Cruiser (J70) - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

where I live in new york state, I have to plug in to the state computer for inspection, for anything younger than 25 years. so engine swaps / ecu swaps are for things 2001 and older. (I think one could swing an electric conversion into newer...like get a 2010 gmc with a dead "active fuel managment= killed" 5.3 in it, and swap in an electric engine with batteries under the bed).

JKs had a few things going for them in original form with the Body Control Unit / Engine Control Unit working....new to that edition: rollover stability control for something raised / narrow / and tippy.
(...so nicer thought for a family to be driving / and "staying alive in",...and for everyone that knows someone that rolled a wrangler, or a bronco 2, FJ,...and remembering how they lean / ride with the joy of getting thrown down steps).

your LS idea reminded me: I remember in 1995 moving a rich dudes 1978 J40, that they had just swapped in a hot 350 chevy engine into,... and then had to actually sell it, as it was too hard / fast/ wild to drive on pavement.

Toyota Land Cruiser (J40) - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

fun when you can whip around off road,...but on pavement,...better practice crawling with the hazards on as at 20mph it felt like driving broken wooden crate of oranges . I took it from his house to the flat bed....and his wife was happy it was leaving. (she had a new 1995 grand cherokee turd pile anyway,...but happy he was not going to die in it....went off to some place with a 3 mile long dirt driveway.)



all that said,...if not a 3.8 or the fuel sipping diesel of the period,
...wonder if you could put in a 4.0 petrol from the earlier models.
(the last of the shade tree mechanic's friendly jeep engines).

 

[CalSgt]

The 3.6L JK's are fairly reliable and were commonly sold with a 5 speed standard gearbox, if you find one you might consider driving it until it breaks instead of swapping right away.

Motech in NV USA may have an interface for the BCM to EMC/PCM communication, they're one of the go to swap shops for JK's and JL's over here. They have been throwing L92's, LT1's, LT4's and recently the 6.6L L8T's in jeeps for some time now. To the best of my knowledge, they seem to do mostly GM automatic transmissions though.

If you buy a running one, the 3.6L from 2012-2018 are a lot peppier than the 3.8L it replaced (2007-2012), the 3.8 is a just a repurposed minivan engine & they have more commonly known problems like cracking exhaust manifolds and overheating.

If they sell the Rubicon option package over there that's the one to get if you want to leave the axles alone. Rubicon package is D44 axles front & rear, selectable electric locking differential front and rear, 4.10:1 gear ratio, 241OR transfer case with 4:1 low range, and remote front sway bar disconnect.

If you plan to put tall tires and be rough with it add a track bar brace for the front as that is a known failure point, on the JK D44's a lot of people add inner knuckle gussets as they are prone to bend with 37" tires and rock crawling.

The JL D44's are significantly more robust, I've got 70K miles on mine all with 37" tires. I've done the Rubicon 6 times, Fordyce twice, two one week trips in Moab UT, and many more lesser-known trails. I did regear it to 4.88:1 at 20K miles. The only break I've experienced was a ball joint which ruined the outer knuckle, it was still drivable with the broken ball joint but it wasn't very happy about it..

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[Jrgunn5150]

They were 3.8 from 08-11, 3.8 from 12 on.

Never a 5 speed, was a 6 speed.

Again, wouldn't pay Jeep tax for a running one. Not when you want to build it out. Get a frame and a tub, nothing else about them is worth having for a real wheeler.