Introduction and rear question

[kurtwrightk]

Glad I found this I'm Kurt from Birmingham al retired 30 year Army vet finally able to start my build.
1983 Silverado lb 86,00 orig miles
Blown up 305 turbo 350
My toy list I have built for it
2004 Lq4 6.0 (scammed heads cut, 58lb injectors ls6 intake 92mm throttle body
2008 4l80e
2000 4x4 1/2 to rearend 4.10 posi disk brakes

Question is anybody swapped a new rearend into a square will it fit or should I swapp ring and pinion into mine both are 8.5 10 bolt

 

[Shorty81]

Welcome from Ohio

 

[ali_c20]

Welcome from Austria.
Measure axle overall lenght, spring perch position and angle, shock mounts. Then you will see what is different.
Spring perches and shock mounts can be cut off and new ones welded on, no big deal.

 

[dusterdude]

Welcome

 

[Old Guy Bill]

Hi...
Without pics it's all just wind.......

 

[animal]

 

[Ricko1966]

If they are both 8.5 10bolt,a ring and pinion swap would definitely be the fast and simple route. You don't even have to pull the rearend. Shims are for differences in housings,differential and gears are pretty tight tolerance. Use the shims from the rearend housing you are going to use,read your pattern it's very possible it will be that simple,if not at least at that point you'll have a reading to go from.If you decide to go this route before you tear things down ask how how to make a go,no go gauge for pinion depth,cheap,easy, save you time and money.

 

[Mr Clean]

 

[Strick]

Welcome from NC.

 

[WFO]

Welcome from the Texas Panhandle.

 

[86 C10 Shortbed]

Welcome from Central Ohio

 

[Craig Nedrow]

While The info Ricko gave is great, which rearend do you have? 88 and newer should had the thirty spline, but had a 1.1 necked down section of the shaft that makes it weaker then the 28 spline. 28 spline is, though different then the D44, strength is a toss up. I have an LQ4, and once you get it in the truck and dialed in, I believe you will break something. LQ4 truck engine was mated to a 14 bolt, what I have in my truck. The posi in the 10b uses springs and clutches, and and is easly rebuildable but again not particularly strong. Also the brakes are smaller. If you are like me, down the road here comes a cam swap, headers, new tune and easy 450-500 horse. I would be worried at that point, as most 10b had engines that had 250 Tq, and 220 hp, or close as a motivater.

 

[legopnuematic]

Welcome from Missouri.

 

[Craig Nedrow]

If you just have to keep the 10b, there are after market lockers/posies, ARB, Auburn gear, Eaton, Detroit, Yukon etc, but $$$$. You could truss the housing, and looks cool to. BUT, the very first thing that I would do is to up the 1040 1.10 stock axles to 1.21minor spline dia, which is a 32% increase in strength. You can go 30 splin with the bigger 1.21 diameter, use 1541H or 4340 axles. Most of this info is from Randy Lyman of Yukon gear, also a great company. Lastly U-joints, Spicer 760 VS stock 297x are 10-15 percent stronger. Kurt Welcome, glad you are here and thank you for your service, Awesome.

 

[TotalyHucked]

I'm almost certain that 2000 rearend is quite a bit wider than what you have. Could probably still use it, but you may have to change your wheel plans. Or you could always have it cut down to whatever length you want. Spring perches likely aren't in the right spot either. I went down this research road with my '85 and ultimately just rebuilt my original 10-bolt and upgraded to 30-spline stuff with a Yukon Duragrip and 3.90 gears