Improve 1/8 mile et

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The tune is close. We tuned it on the engine dyno for the best timing and jets. I expect that probably changes with the engine in the truck because of the heat so maybe there is something in the tune. I will need to get an o2 sensor though.
That should optimize the current configuration. I'll have to weld one in and wire it up. That will be an excuse.to.return to the track. :D
 

Rusty Nail

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I love that grille so much. The truck looks great. You could tune the time changing rear tire size...I'd try a 295/50 before I spent too much money...but I would be quick to invest in a pair of clear turns. :wave:
 
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410 John

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What’s you 60’ times? And what psi in the drag radials? I would run 16psi at the track.
 

Catbox

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You could also pull the mirrors into the door for less drag.
I would add a light weight set of wheels for drag night and leave the steelies for the street.

Good looking truck.
 
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What’s you 60’ times? And what psi in the drag radials? I would run 16psi at the track.
60' times are 1.7
I run about 20 psi and there is no noticeable tire spin during the launch
 
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You could also pull the mirrors into the door for less drag.
I would add a light weight set of wheels for drag night and leave the steelies for the street.

Good looking truck.
I might try aluminum wheels. I saw a YouTube video where they did a back-to-back chassis dyno test with big heavy mud tires vs light weight wheels with drag radials and the measured difference was huge. I don't remember the exact weight difference but it was like a 50 lb savings and 75 horsepower difference measured at the tire. If I move to aluminum wheels I'm sure it would save weight, but maybe only 5-10 lbs per wheel? Does anyone know what one 15x8 rally wheel weighs? There must be some unsprung weight savings with a wheel swap from steel rallys to aluminum wheels to free up some power. The question is how much and is that the easiest path to 2 tenths. Could be.
 
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I love that grille so much. The truck looks great. You could tune the time changing rear tire size...I'd try a 295/50 before I spent too much money...but I would be quick to invest in a pair of clear turns. :wave:
Thanks.
What are clear turns?
 

Ricko1966

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Take off the hood on race night cold intake is worth ponies so is the lost weight and its free. L69 Camaro air cleaner, look its drawing cold air, same reason GM ran Shaker hoods and Cowl hoods, turbos run intercoolers and some racers run cool cans. Cold air/fuel makes more power . There used to be a formula for how much 30 years ago,but I don't remember it, and now all the info is misquided, about injected cars.
 

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PrairieDrifter

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I don't know your health status. But maybe a diet is in order?? And your truck is actually just fine???:rotflmao:
 

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Some easy tricks are running a short belt which only drives the water pump, or an under drive main pulley which slows down all the acc. You might try exhaust cut outs. A good torque convetor is usally worth a couple of tenths. I think your gearing is ok. Taking the tailgate off is an easy weight lose. Its going to be tough to win races if your trucks best is 7:50. I bet most guys are running under the index and sand bagging. A light weight battery can save some weight, but you better have a jump box for that BBC. Cold air intakes usually give you MPH and not a reduction in ET from my past experiences. Wheels are a big ticket item I would do them later. Not much gain for the cost. Your looking for a couple of tenths on your 60 foot times. I would do a torque convertor first. A few more degrees of timing might work with good fuel. A N2O plate system would work for sure. A 50, or 75 wet shot on a hand switch will be alot of fun. You would only hit the button on the top end or as needed. For example if your opponet has a length or so on you hit the button to pull even with him. I'm guessing on a double break out the one closet to the index number wins. Have fun with your truck and friends at the track.
 
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It's looking more like NO2 is the best option. I'm not willing to give up the air conditioner or remove body panels. The truck already has a 2500 stall converter and i don't want to go any higher because it could reduce drivability on the street. And as far as wheels go I don't think the expense is justified for the improvement. I found an old article online where they replaced rally wheels with aluminum and saved a good deal of weight but the et improvement was only one tenth of a second. So the plan for now is to put some O2 sensors on it and tune the carb and timing then add a 50hp shot of NO2.
 
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@Rusty Nail
The front side marker lights came yellow from the factory. Clear was never a factory option. Locally it would not pass inspection with clear lenses. You might pass inspection if the bulbs were swaped out for amber bulbs though.

Meh, it's a stock appearing longbed with the exception of the tires. IMO it wouldn't look right with clear lenses. Maybe if it was cut down to a shortbed, lowered with large diameter wheels, and widow tint the clear lenses might look right on target. This is a retired farm truck with the original paint job and I think the clear lenses would clash. Clear lenses have their place, but i dont think this is the right truck for those. Again, just my opinion for this particular truck.
 

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