How to get better mileage out of your pick up.

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89Suburban

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- Funny you post this, last night I was stunned by my trucks behavior. We had a big air temperature drop yesterday, like 30 degrees. Last night my Burb felt like it had 20 percent more power and was begging for me to cruise her around. That cold air made a huge difference in the power of this truck. However, doesn't cooler air mean more fuel?

- If my oxygen sensor was bad wouldn't the engine light say so?

- Does a spacer really improve mileage? Does it affect factory sensors or computer?

- They make "economy" tuned chips? I might want one.

- Doesn't changing intake and exhaust flows burn more fuel?

- I want to go back to factory size tires. 235/75-15's.

- Do sudden stops really hurt gas mileage?

- I have heard p/u trucks get the best mileage with an open bed. It creates a rolling ball of wind in the back and cut's down on the drag on the back of the cab. Anybody else hear that?

Just some of my questions. :D
 

sonicbluezx3

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- I have heard p/u trucks get the best mileage with an open bed. It creates a rolling ball of wind in the back and cut's down on the drag on the back of the cab. Anybody else hear that?

They did that on an episode of Mythbusters. The tailgate up creates the ball of wind in the back which makes the air go over your windshield and over the ball of wind rather than causing more drag. I would assume that a Tonneau cover would be better than having the tailgate down too, but not as good as having no Tonneau cover and the tailgate up.
 

Jims86

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- Funny you post this, last night I was stunned by my trucks behavior. We had a big air temperature drop yesterday, like 30 degrees. Last night my Burb felt like it had 20 percent more power and was begging for me to cruise her around. That cold air made a huge difference in the power of this truck. However, doesn't cooler air mean more fuel?

- If my oxygen sensor was bad wouldn't the engine light say so?
*Not necessarily. A failing o2 sensor will not trigger a light, unless it starts operating outside of the programmed boundaries for its normal operation.

- Does a spacer really improve mileage? Does it affect factory sensors or computer?
*It depends on the spacer design. With a smooth Dual bore spacer, you should be fine with stock components. You will benifit from the added manifold volume, which has been dyno proven, but the gains are very small, almost un noticed, exept for maybe better throttle response. The CFM-Tech spacer, that is of the "Open to both sides design" (trans dapt makes a similar piece) requires at least an Adjustable fuel regulator IMO, because there is a bit of a lean "tip in" on accelleration. It boosts power just a tiny bit in the mid to upper rpm ranges.

- They make "economy" tuned chips? I might want one.
*Let me know when you are ready to do this, I can get you a drop in chip that has been fine tuned for a stock 4wd Squareburban, stock exhaust, that has a wide open throttle air fuel ratio of 12.5, and yeilds around 19.5 MPG, due to the use of Highway cruise mode, which is disabled from the factory.
- Doesn't changing intake and exhaust flows burn more fuel?
*Not the way you drive, which is similar to my driving style...laid back and chill, unless in the company F-150.
Better flow=less work for the engine to do, intake and on exhaust.
- I want to go back to factory size tires. 235/75-15's.
*I aim to do this as well. just make sure you keep 35 psi in them, and you should be ok. They are a few inches shorter than 31's, and that will translate into less work for the engine as well, just like installing a bigger set of gears. Shouldnt be a big mpg factor on the highway.

- Do sudden stops really hurt gas mileage?
*Only if there is a hole in the front of your fuel tank. Its the required starts after a stop(of any kind) that is detrimental to fuel economy, because you have to go through the gears again, to get the engine back to a steady cruising rpm, which is where it is most efficient.
- I have heard p/u trucks get the best mileage with an open bed. It creates a rolling ball of wind in the back and cut's down on the drag on the back of the cab. Anybody else hear that?
*Yes- its kinda like us with burbs, installing a large cone on the back(like on the space shuttle, when its piggyback on its 747) or, the panels I have seen on the back of Van trailers.
That swirling ball of air behind the cab prevents a vacuum from being formed, smoothly passing the air over the bed area, and the result is only a small vacuum area behind the tailgate. With the tailgate down, there is no opportunity for the bubble to form, resulting in an area of vacuum, just as bad as on our Burbs.
Anther example...which is easier to row? a Boat with a Flat tail, or a Kayak that is sleek on both ends?
 
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89Suburban

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- If my oxygen sensor was bad wouldn't the engine light say so?
*Not necessarily. A failing o2 sensor will not trigger a light, unless it starts operating outside of the programmed boundaries for its normal operation.
10-4, I will replace that sometime when I get the cash, don't know the real age of it, and if it is original with 190+K on it, it's time, lol.

- Does a spacer really improve mileage? Does it affect factory sensors or computer?
*It depends on the spacer design. With a smooth Dual bore spacer, you should be fine with stock components. You will benifit from the added manifold volume, which has been dyno proven, but the gains are very small, almost un noticed, exept for maybe better throttle response. The CFM-Tech spacer, that is of the "Open to both sides design" (trans dapt makes a similar piece) requires at least an Adjustable fuel regulator IMO, because there is a bit of a lean "tip in" on accelleration. It boosts power just a tiny bit in the mid to upper rpm ranges.
Didn't think so, not worth it to me then.

- They make "economy" tuned chips? I might want one.
*Let me know when you are ready to do this, I can get you a drop in chip that has been fine tuned for a stock 4wd Squareburban, stock exhaust, that has a wide open throttle air fuel ratio of 12.5, and yeilds around 19.5 MPG, due to the use of Highway cruise mode, which is disabled from the factory.
Phuck yes, now you talikn!

- Doesn't changing intake and exhaust flows burn more fuel?
*Not the way you drive, which is similar to my driving style...laid back and chill, unless in the company F-150.
Better flow=less work for the engine to do, intake and on exhaust.
Yap, laid back, half throttle and under at lower rpms is my style. Still on the fence about this. I really don't want the increased maintenance of headers/duals or the noise or expense. If it really will make a difference in mileage I will have to look into it at some point. If not I am happy with the stock stuff. I will have to make a decision on this.

- I want to go back to factory size tires. 235/75-15's.
*I aim to do this as well. just make sure you keep 35 psi in them, and you should be ok. They are a few inches shorter than 31's, and that will translate into less work for the engine as well, just like installing a bigger set of gears. Shouldnt be a big mpg factor on the highway.
Only thing I will miss is the larger contact patch for going through the field everyday. But the pro's of gaining some gearing and lower shift speeds is what I am after. That would drop my OD shift to around 40 MPH instead of the current 45. That right there would make a big difference. Also getting the damn converter lock up fixed will help.

- Do sudden stops really hurt gas mileage?
*Only if there is a hole in the front of your fuel tank.
That's how I see it, if I down shift by hand you can actually hear the fuel getting cut off to the motor down to a certain rpm. Only thing I can see wasting fuel on sudden stops is being on the go pedal longer than when you would stop ahead of time. I coast a lot before a stop and leave space ahead of me during that process.
 

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Since you have a set of decent flowing aftermarket heads already, I would just get a set of Dorman replacement manifolds, like what I have, and maybe get a dremel, and gasket match the ports, and grind some of the casting slag off. Again, its all dependant upon driving style.
Stock mufflers are just fine(Jedi hand wave) with the fairly light(boat) towing you do.
Now, if you were in an often loaded 3/4 ton truck or larger with a smallblock that would be at wide open throttle for a long time, just to get the combo going, I would be singin a tune about magnaflow mufflers, but no need really, less you want sound....with that said, My 2.5 foot long magnaflow is a tad quieter than the Walker quietflow.
Sometime when I have some spending cash, I am going to try a large body AP replacement muffler for a 94-95 burb, and see how quiet that is. Mileage should be ok no matter what, I have that chip in the computer.
 
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89Suburban

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Since you have a set of decent flowing aftermarket heads already, I would just get a set of Dorman replacement manifolds, like what I have, and maybe get a dremel, and gasket match the ports, and grind some of the casting slag off. Again, its all dependant upon driving style.
Stock mufflers are just fine(Jedi hand wave) with the fairly light(boat) towing you do.
Now, if you were in an often loaded 3/4 ton truck or larger with a smallblock that would be at wide open throttle for a long time, just to get the combo going, I would be singin a tune about magnaflow mufflers, but no need really, less you want sound....with that said, My 2.5 foot long magnaflow is a tad quieter than the Walker quietflow.
Sometime when I have some spending cash, I am going to try a large body AP replacement muffler for a 94-95 burb, and see how quiet that is.

Good **** dude. I will have to check those Dorman's out, they cast iron like the factory ones? ANd got the same dimensions/outlet locations? Should bolt right in? :popcorn:
 

Jims86

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Good **** dude. I will have to check those Dorman's out, they cast iron like the factory ones? ANd got the same dimensions/outlet locations? Should bolt right in? :popcorn:

Direct bolt in, come with new donuts and hardaware, gaskets(not recommended) they dont come with new manifold to head bolts. new heat riser stove tack welded on. Cast iron, looks like they use the factory casts.
 

89Suburban

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Direct bolt in, come with new donuts and hardaware, gaskets(not recommended) they dont come with new manifold to head bolts. new heat riser stove tack welded on. Cast iron, looks like they use the factory casts.

I might have to splurge on that, a y pipe and new converter next tax check.


Sent from my iPod Touch 4th Gen using Tapatalk
 

jake wells

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you want better fuel economy huh. How about you don't drive it and walk more :lol:
 

Jims86

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you want better fuel economy huh. How about you don't drive it and walk more :lol:

Where is that pic of the Tahoe resonator on your truck?
 

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Anyone tried http://tbichips.com or similar? I'm thinking about getting a chip. My truck is my dd so I don't want to pull the engine and change anything until it really needs it.
 

Jims86

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Anyone tried http://tbichips.com or similar? I'm thinking about getting a chip. My truck is my dd so I don't want to pull the engine and change anything until it really needs it.

No, no, no....you want old school EFI. He is in Vancouver Wa. Dave will tune your truck while you drive it, not pull a pre made file and load onto a chip.
[email protected]
 

HotRodPC

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Jim did you maybe miss a D in oldschool of that email addy or is it reallay olschool? Jus making sure.
 

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