Hot, hot won't start..

[Steelbuddha]

"Heat soak." Universal GM starter problem in the summertime down South. Since we're among friends, I will admit to having urinated on stuck starters in a pinch to free them up. (Civilized people also use water.) It works, but gets tedious. And it's not really a fix.

The best solution I ever found was a Mean Green starter, which is a type of hi-torque mini. They're rated to turn over rail dragsters, so a small block is no challenge at all. These days I think they cost about $400 (ouch!) but it'll fix the problem for good.

Everything everybody else said about new cables and new terminals is good advice, too.

 

[BryanC]

The '73 3500 did this to me multiple times until I installed heat shields on both the solenoid and starter.

 

[hdchevy]

Here's the scerino:
78 Big 10 350/350, original qjet, 2 row alum rad - 2 pullers. Wrapped headers flange to flange.
Occassionally...
Hot, hot day 90°+. Been driving an hour or so. Pull into gas station to fill up from 1/4 tank left. Turn everything off.
Fill up. Get in, put in key and turn to start.
Dash lights and buzzer come on. Nothing from engine bay. No click, nothing other than rad fans coming on.
Pop the hood, and let it set 15-20 minutes.
Try again and stsrts right up.
New ignition switch. Wiggling shift sel does nothing. Wiggling batt wires does nothing. Nothing seems loose. Coolant res at good level. Gauges do not show hot motor.

What component of the original mfg stuff is senesitive to hot, hot engine bay?
I have twin fans on rad, pullers. And headers are wrapped very well.

Any thoughts?

Agree with it is probably a started related issue. Chevy positioning of the starter makes it prone to heating soak, especially with headers. Once the starter get too hot the armature and solenoid are affected. Most times it just binds or cranks slowly when hot but it can completely lockup also.

 

[YakkoWarner]

Agree with it is probably a started related issue. Chevy positioning of the starter makes it prone to heating soak, especially with headers. Once the starter get too hot the armature and solenoid are affected. Most times it just binds or cranks slowly when hot but it can completely lockup also.

I have had this issue on both Ford and Chevy trucks - really good cables can help overcome the extra drag from the heat soak but even with brand new everything there is still that moment of anxiety after stopping for gas or something that only takes a short while. My Ford was a manual so I just parked on a hill when possible, but my squarebody is automatic so I don't have that get-out-of-jail-free card.

 

[WFarm]

I installed a starter on my 454 (early 70s LS5) with a Delco Delphi one for a 99 Suburban from Oreilly. Also used the slightly shorter mounting bolts. Starter P/N R613326B. Dorman P/N for bolts was 678-107. Everything bolted right up and works beautifully. Starter is a small permanent magnet gear reduction unit. I also wrapped it in an insulating blanket although that was probably overkill. It’s worked flawlessly thru the summer heat.

Also did the same thing to my 57 Chevy with 383. Used a different starter, but it was also a permanent magnet gear reduction unit and worked great.

 

[hey mister]

Well today I decided to yank the original starter.
This was one I found at Summit on the demo rack.
I just can't believe the size and weight difference.

 

[hey mister]

Before, the original starter had maybe a half inch between pipes and starter....now, it looks like close to 1-1/2 inched of gap. Huge difference.
And I bet, I'll pich up atleast a half mile per gallon, just from weight reduction.