Gauge Stuff

[TheSquareGuy]

Ok it started with a stuck selector valve for my gas tanks, that turned into the valve was stuck on a shot tank. I had little experience when I went though this process and didn't think much of this through. I swapped all of the fuel lines from the passenger side of the selector valve to the drivers side. (Passenger tank is completely gone at this point) ok so... The drivers side tank is hooked up as the passenger side. I've got everything wired up (ground is sketchy but not the problem suggestions on a sending unit ground would be appreciated (wire for ground was clipped)) ok so since everything else is hooked up to the passenger side of the selector valve I wired the (this is where most of my knowledge goes downhill) I wired the drivers side wire into the passenger side on the electrical clip that goes into the selector valve. Well that didn't work, gas gauge is still non functional. I red online somewhere that if you wire your pink (from the clip going into the housing of the gauges) directly to your tank the gauge will work??? So here's my question 1) is that gonna work, have any of you tried this or dealt with this issue 2) I'm colorblind so I need to know which number on this clip is the gas gauge (can't find it anywhere)

Please and thank you for help

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[chengny]

(Passenger tank is completely gone at this point) ok so...

If you only have the production (LH) tank installed, just bypass the tank switch valve entirely and run the common PNK lead directly to the sender.

See the link below. It should help explain everything.


ok so since everything else is hooked up to the passenger side of the selector valve I wired the (this is where most of my knowledge goes downhill) I wired the drivers side wire into the passenger side on the electrical clip that goes into the selector valve. Well that didn't work, gas gauge is still non functional.

The valve has to be on a particular tank to read that level. If the valve is unable to stroke, the wiring to the sender will remain where it was when the system was modified.



I red online somewhere that if you wire your pink (from the clip going into the housing of the gauges) directly to your tank the gauge will work??? So here's my question 1) is that gonna work, have any of you tried this or dealt with this issue 2) I'm colorblind so I need to know which number on this clip is the gas gauge (can't find it anywhere)

Yes it will work. But it isn't necessary to tear into your gauges. Again, see the link for details.

http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17777&highlight=sender

 

[TheSquareGuy]

http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17777&highlight=sender

Ok, so I trued what you said and it slowly moved to a little past the full mark It has probably 1/2 tank I know this gauge was accurate before. Maybe the sensor on the sending unit is toast . How it was before it would just go flying until a ways past full it didn't reach that far and it went pretty slow sooo

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[chengny]

Ok, so I trued what you said and it slowly moved to a little past the full mark It has probably 1/2 tank I know this gauge was accurate before. Maybe the sensor on the sending unit is toast ��. How it was before it would just go flying until a ways past full it didn't reach that far and it went pretty slow sooo

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As extreme examples:

1. If the pink wire to the sender is broken/disconnected the control leg exerts the greater force and pegs the needle Full.

2. If the pink wire is allowed to contact ground (before passing through the sender), the sensing leg has a greater force and the ray pegs low.

So, if you are confident that the gauge is reading higher than the actual tank level, look for excessive resistance in the sensing leg.

Since the pink lead to the sender is a straight shot from the instrument cluster (i.e. no splices or connectors), I would start by inspecting the wiring on the ground side of the sender. Be sure the connections as shown below are clean and tight:

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If no joy there, check the gauge function by:

1. Completely disconnecting the pink wire from the sender pin (should peg past F)

2. Grounding the pink lead to a clean unpainted area on the frame (gauge should peg to E) - this test will also confirm that the pink lead is good.

If you have a meter and know how to use it, check the sender. At a 1/2 tank, resistance across the sender should be about 45 ohms. One probe of the meter goes to the pin (where the pink lead goes) and the other probe goes to the male spade on the sender (where the blue/black ground lead clips on).

 

[TheSquareGuy]

Yeah I might need a new sending unit with how I've got that ground

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[chengny]

I've got everything wired up (ground is sketchy but not the problem suggestions on a sending unit ground would be appreciated (wire for ground was clipped))

Don't buy and install a whole new sender just because the ground lead was diked off - it's just a piece of wire with a ring terminal on one end and a crimped connection on the other.

Matter of fact, I'm not even sure if you get a new ground cable with a sender.

 

[TheSquareGuy]

Well I'll need to drop the tank to fix it anyway

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[TheSquareGuy]

I've got everything wired up (ground is sketchy but not the problem suggestions on a sending unit ground would be appreciated (wire for ground was clipped))

Don't buy and install a whole new sender just because the ground lead was diked off - it's just a piece of wire with a ring terminal on one end and a female spade on the other.

Matter of fact, I don't think you'll even get a new ground cable with a sender.

When I looked at it before it seemed like a one piece deal... I may drop the tank down again and take a look if it isn't one piece then I'll fix it


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[HotRodPC]

I just caught this thread somehow. Just an FYI @TheSquareGuy this isn't an ass chewing, and it's not to throw you under the bus and use you as an example so no worries. But just as a reminder to everyone else, and the newbies who may not know, We don't use the wirty dords, even the bare basic ones in Thread Titles. We don't have issues with any of the ****, ********, *****, kunt, phuk, etc in posts but just not in the thread titles. This is due to some people scan the forum at work on work computers or in view of their kids at home and we just don't want the thread list with the wirty dords. So I've changed it from Gauge **** to Gauge Stuff.

The one exception that we've just so happen to leave alone, is the ******** on Craigslist thread. I even thought of changing it too but that thread is one of the originals from way early on when the forum was new, and even before I was Mod then Admin. It didn't happen on my watch, and it was allowed to slip through the cracks at that time, so I've left it alone.

Since the software change, some our wirty dords are now censored and come up as ****. I guess we'll live with it as much as we don't like that snowflake ********. At any rate, carry on.

And it's time for an update on this thread. What have you found out? Is it fixed yet?

 

[TheSquareGuy]

Yeah the guage works, its kinda accurate I mean I haven't ran out of gas, it just suddenly decided to work a week after doing everything that was suggested

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