Engine cranks but no start

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Cj1234

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I have a 1978 Chevy C10 with a 350 SBC and has Fitech fuel injection.My engine cranks and starts but it only starts when I give it some throttle then immediately dies after I let off. I just recently fixed my timing on my distributor. I fixed timing, and made sure all my spark plugs and wires are good and in the right firing order but still can only start with throttle. Is there anything else I should check that causes this problem?
 

PrairieDrifter

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Give it more timing until it fires then try and dial the timing in closer once it's running better on its own, close to the target idle rpm. You dont know what you're timing is set at anyways until it's running semi decent
 

Chevy 88

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Did it run correctly before you were working on the distributor? If so, I suspect a distributor problem.
 

Cj1234

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Did it run correctly before you were working on the distributor? If so, I suspect a distributor problem
Yes it was running great! It all started to happen after I replaced my spark plugs. After buttoning everything back up, i realized that I put my firing order wrong and cranked it which I think screwed up my timing. So i completely re did timing and set it back to TDC and everything but now it will start but will only stay on as long as I’m giving some throttle. As soon as I let off throttle it dies. Keep in mind I have a buddy of mine twisting the distributor as I crank and give a little bit of throttle.
 

Ricko1966

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Yes it was running great! It all started to happen after I replaced my spark plugs. After buttoning everything back up, i realized that I put my firing order wrong and cranked it which I think screwed up my timing. So i completely re did timing and set it back to TDC and everything but now it will start but will only stay on as long as I’m giving some throttle. As soon as I let off throttle it dies. Keep in mind I have a buddy of mine twisting the distributor as I crank and give a little bit of throttle.
Line your timing marks up at 10* btdc,point the distributor rotor at #1 plug wire. Double check the firing order 18436572. 5 and 7 get mixed up very common. That should get you close enough to start it abd time it correctly. If the rotor is pounting at 6 instead of one,that is just as good.
 

Trucksareforwork

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You didn’t happen to knock a vacuum line loose, did you?
 

Grit dog

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Something doesn’t add up, as I don’t recall getting a couple plug wires crossed up being able to affect timing.
You say you think it messed up timing so you “completely re-did the timing.” That’s a pretty vague statement but moreso, did you end up back at the same spot or no? Or did you not mark/check/compare?
Assuming you actually got the distributor back in in the right place (or even removed it?) and you’ve confirmed you’re at TDC on the ignition stroke and it ran great before, it should easily adjust to running smoothly with your beer drinking human timing light doing the adjusting. Lol
I might suspect a vac leak if it runs well above idle but won’t idle.
You may need to be more specific about what you did wrong to begin with and what you did since then to get it “timed” right.
Given what you’ve described thus far, there could be other odd things you didn’t do right, between replacing the first spark plug and now.
Like how and which wires got crossed up? That’s tough to do if just replacing plugs.
Did it backfire hard thru the intake? Idk anything about fitech or other aftermarket fuel injections.
Does it run on all 8 or is it not smooth or misfiring when you do get it to run?
When diagnosing via internet help it’s important to be specific step by step because we weren’t there watching you do the work.
 
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Ricko1966

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Something doesn’t add up, as I don’t recall getting a couple plug wires crossed up being able to affect timing.
You say you think it messed up timing so you “completely re-did the timing.” That’s a pretty vague statement but moreso, did you end up back at the same spot or no? Or did you not mark/check/compare?
Assuming you actually got the distributor back in in the right place (or even removed it?) and you’ve confirmed you’re at TDC on the ignition stroke and it ran great before, it should easily adjust to running smoothly with your beer drinking human timing light doing the adjusting. Lol
I might suspect a vac leak if it runs well above idle but won’t idle.
You may need to be more specific about what you did wrong to begin with and what you did since then to get it “timed” right.
Given what you’ve described thus far, there could be other odd things you didn’t do right, between replacing the first spark plug and now.
Like how and which wires got crossed up? That’s tough to do if just replacing plugs.
Did it backfire hard thru the intake? Idk anything about fitech or other aftermarket fuel injections.
Does it run on all 8 or is it not smooth or misfiring when you do get it to run?
When diagnosing via internet help it’s important to be specific step by step because we weren’t there watching you do the work.
My tire went flat,only on the bottom though. I tried driving on just the tops but that didn't work. I read on the internet that cool air is heavier than warm air. Should I wait until winter to try to fill the bottom. Thanks in advance.
 

Moodyalaskan

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No- take a CO2 fire extinguisher and spray the bottom of the tire to cool it down or pack it in ice and then go ahead and air it up! If that doesn't work, you didn't get it cold enough.
:banghead:
 

Chevy 88

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A flat spot on the tire is caused by old worn out air. You gotta change the air in your tires from time to time or that will happen.
 

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